[TxGreaseMonkey]

Good to hear the fuel pump does run. Did you test the various distributor sensors?

Have you checked for any codes, since you installed the new ECM? Reset the ECM and try cranking the starter for 20 seconds to see if it throws a code. This may help you zero-in on where the problem lies. This is starting to get into the obscure, since you have fuel and spark.

[latreche34]

Ok I bought a complete brand new distributor from eBay I got a deal on it, just $120 include. Shipping, as soon as I get it I'll post the results, thanks

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Awesome price. Did that include igniter and coil? What did the distributor sensor tests reveal about your old distributor?

[purplegigzilla]

My 93 honda civic dose not start. When it was parked 1 month ago it was running fine. Went to start it but it turns over but won't start

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Answer these 3 basic diagnostic questions for me, in a 1-2-3 format:

1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

[latreche34]

Awesome price. Did that include igniter and coil? What did the distributor sensor tests reveal about your old distributor?

Here it is it looks like it has everything in it:

[TxGreaseMonkey]

All I can say is WOW! That's one of the best deals I've ever seen. Did your old distributor fail the sensor tests? Your Civic should run now.

[latreche34]

All I can say is WOW! That's one of the best deals I've ever seen. Did your old distributor fail the sensor tests? Your Civic should run now.

I think I no longer need to do tests on the old one, I just wait for the new one and see what I can do, hopfully it's going to run like you said.

[RichieLucas]

Gents,

I have a very similar problem on a 2000 1.6 VTEC DOHC Civic.

The car was being driven on a hill, and then it cut out and has not started since.

There is fuel, compression, spark and the engine management light is going out as normal, and the car has been hooked up to OBDII and there are no error codes.

The entire distributor unit has been replaced out of caution and it is still no different. Spark plugs have also been changed and there is a very strong spark when cranking.

So : Engine management light is going out, fuel pump is running and stops when the main relay clicks and the EML goes out.

What can I do gents as I am at a total loss!

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I would check the main relay and various sensors, particularly the MAP sensor, CYL, CKP, and TDC. After the distributor was replaced, was the timing checked? Test the health of your ECM, by checking for 5 volts between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground.

[latreche34]

Got the distributor, installed it unfortunately it didn't help the car still won't start, the last thing I'm going to do is replace the map sensor and the knock sensor if the problem persists I will have to just sell it as is. Note that I have replaced the main relay, the ECU, the spark plugs and the distributor.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Don't give up, "Dawn is Coming." Hang in there! Never, never give up.!

I know you have said you have spark and fuel. However, have you checked fuel pressure? Your fuel pump may be turning but its pressure might be weak or your fuel filter might be old and restricting pressure and flow to the fuel rail. Have you checked the injectors? With ignition OFF, disconnect the 2P connector from each injector and measure resistance between the 2 terminals of the injector. It should be 10-13 ohms. Turn ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between YEL/BLK (+) terminal in the 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? If no, repair open in the YEL/BLK wire between fuel injector and the main relay. If yes, reconnect the 2P connector to the injector.

How many miles are on your Civic? Have you checked each cylinder's compression? Because you have spark and because MAP sensors are expensive, I wouldn't replace this item now. You must be getting very close to getting it to run.

[Wild at Heart]

Hi there tx, my '93 Honda Civic DX is not starting as well. Unfortunately I am about 2,500 miles away from my tools. I have already read through this thread and gone to my car to check things out. I don't have a multimeter or a spark plug socket (not sure if I need one of those). I have a few questions for you, but first I will start by answering your questions.

Answer these 3 basic diagnostic questions for me, in a 1-2-3 format:
1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds?

Yes. I did the Service Check Indicator and when it was jumped the CEL came on and stayed on steady, no flashing at all. Is that a code? What does it mean?

2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear (or feel) the main relay "click"?

I hear a click, I think it is the relay but it may be the sound of the light going off? I don't know that much.

3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run?

no.


I had a friend check the fuel pump and he says that fuel is indeed getting to the engine. I changed the distributer cap and the rotory button and when I reconnected the negative battery cable after that I heard the fuel pump run.

My Chilton manual doesn't say anything about a Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor, what is this and where do I find it in case I need to disconnect it like you had to.

The car died while at a red light, it will not start again, I am thinking that this shouldn't be the spark plugs or the wires because they wouldn't all go out at once right? One at a time seems much more likely and there was no indication that one cylinder was not firing.

Lastly, I am considering just getting a new distributer since I can't figure out what else to do. I don't necessarily have the funds to blow on that and then have other things to fix afterwards. You said something about the igniter, is this a normal piece of the distributer, in such that when I buy a new distributer I will have a new igniter as well.

Do you have any suggestions or information that could help me and maybe even save me the money? I have a few friends down here, and one of them may be able to let me borrow a multimeter, but it will be days before that happens. My car is 20 minutes from the house I am staying at so it is a slow process of working on it, only when I have time and can get a ride.

Sorry, that was a lot of questions. Hope I have enough info for you.

Barbara

[TxGreaseMonkey]

If you follow the procedure described in the FAQ section, it should help you get your Civic running again:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219451

I would focus on the igniter and coil. Autozone and O'Reilly Auto will test these for free. If you want to install an inexpensive distributor, with all new everything, look on EBay. They're available for around $110. Also, make sure to install new NGK plugs in your Civic. Go through the new FAQ section and see if it doesn't help you troubleshoot what's wrong.

[Wild at Heart]

I did answer the questions, and then I added the part about the service check connector. It turns off after 2 seconds, unless I jump the connector then it stays steady.

[Wild at Heart]

TX, or anyone who will help me. I have read through the FAQ section and find that my fuel pump is indeed pumping fuel to the engine (though I can't hear the pumping there is fuel getting to the engine) and the relay is working, but it is still not igniting. I would like to check the ECM and or the MAP but my Chilton Manual does not mention either of these items. I need to know where they are, can someone please tell me where to find them and what they look like. I have the FAQ printed up, but they do not tell me where to find these items in order to do the K-Test.
One other question that seems stupid to ask. When turning the ignition "ON not Start" is that 1 click or 2? My ignition has l and ll. Is 2 clicks correct? 1 click has no lights coming on.
Thank you to anyone who is willing to help me.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Turn the ignition key to II. The MAP Sensor is in the middle of the firewall, right on top. It has a 3-P connector going to it. Very easy access. It has a vacuum hose coming out of the bottom of the sensor, which is about 1.5"x1"x1".

You should definitely be able to hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run, when the ignition switch is turned to II. Roll down your window, if necessary. If you still don't hear it, jump terminals 5 and 7, to the main relay's connector, and then turn the ignition switch to II. You should definitely hear it run now. If you hear it now for the first time, replace the main relay. It's best to run the K-Test before getting involved with the main relay. It's so simple and important, so why not?

Read Section N to the FAQ Table of Contents.

[Wild at Heart]

Thank you, I will try that.

[latreche34]

Hi I'm the one who was about to give up after replaced ECM, distributor, main relay, spark plugs the total is about $250 plus $90 two police tickets for long period parking, this morning I was going to list it for sale as is, but I decided to give it the last try I jump start it to my second car and kept cranking and cranking and cranking until it started it was rough in the beginning and then the engine starts to pick up speed, what a miracle, now it's running just like before, one of the cylinders is just 50psi but the engine works I don't care, no I got to clean it up and sell it at the actual condition. What do you think txgreasemonkey were they the injectors?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I don't really know--it's likely a combination of a number of things you did. Good news, anyhow.