I was told to return an all purpose 3 gal tub of mastic that lowes guy recommended for inside alcove shower/tub ceiling 3x5 area.. Should I use unmodified thinset mortar ?.. I am using 6x6 porcelain tile on 3/8 hardibacker screwed to the ceiling and 9" surround at the top of an acrylic wall/ tub surround.. Is the unmodified thinset preferred for tiling on cement (hardibacker) or use modified thinset on the hardibacker board..? i'm going to get white or which ever shade closest to color of tile (almond in my case) .. another project I have is on the 1st floor bathroom,the subfloor is 5/8 plywood should i use modified thinset for setting the hardibacker 1/2 to plywood 5/8 subfloor followed by the manufactures screw instructions/fiber tape slightly spaced seemed to floor joists? And lastly,go back to unmodified thinset (almond) for setting the 12x12 floor tiles to the cement hardibacker? or just use modified thinset mortar throughout? thank you in advance

jon123

okay, did a bit of research on acrylpro site and this is what i learned..ANSI (American Standard Specifications for the Installation of Ceramic Tile) is an organization that sets-up performance standards for mortars designed to set ceramic tile. A mortar meeting A118.1 is an unmodified, dryset mortar that doesn’t contain a polymer. Unmodified mortars are adequate for basic tile jobs such as a residential floor over concrete or a wall tile job when setting ceramic tile. For more demanding installations a polymer-modified mortar is required. Polymer-modified mortars meet ANSI A118.4 standards. You can use a mortar that is already polymer-modified (latex is in the powder) or an unmodified mortar and a liquid latex additive that is used in place of the water requirement. Installations requiring a polymer-modified mortar are when setting porcelain tile or large tile over 12” x 12”, in wet areas, high traffic areas, exterior installations, commercial installations, surfaces that could be subject to minor movement, installing tile over vinyl flooring, plastic laminates or other hard to bond surfaces or setting tile over a waterproof membrane. Installing tile directly over exterior grade plywood requires a mortar with special bonding capabilities, so these installations require a mortar that meets A118.11 standards. Also, the mastic although may seem to meet the requirements for ceiling tiling, isn't better than the polymer-modified mortar i am using.

ballengerb1

You are well on your way to becoming a tiling pro. Seems like you have some great skill expanding projects going on. Good luck, Bob

jon123

Thank you Bob for helping me too! Maybe I might do this for a living! If the money is there! lol.. nah, i'm a handyman by trade, bonded and insured, very slow this time of year! just trying to do my best with each project going forward! Today call laticrete and spoke with support about the expoxy grout.. also asked him if the 1500 sand modified poly grout ( 25lb. bag) is okay to use in the upper portion of the upstairs bathalcove.. he suggested I first use a sealer/allow to dry prior to grouting these rialto stone tiles. Also to sealant the 1500 grout after a few days too. The expensive apoxy groutplus i will surely use on the 1st floor project knowing the moisture situation, 75 bucks for 3 units should do it,will certainly go small on the grout lines too downstairs project. you have a good day sir!

ballengerb1

I have had a few problems with laticrete. Its a 3 part expoxy and not fun to blend. Once blended you have about 40 minutes before it quickly reacts and sets up. The first 15 minutes the stuff is too runny for 1/4" wall lines, then you have about 15 minutes of perfect consistency, after that its starting to set. I switched to a pre-mixed strainproof grout that air dries in an hour, it has body right out of the can but its no cheaper.

jon123

Bob I read you, I wasn't too thrilled watching the video demo on their site showing the A/B epoxies being squeezed out and these units needing a part C (sand color mix) that is quart sized .. you mentioned you use stainproof grout premixed for about the same price.. this is 2.5 lb carton of sand with a two part epoxy at 25 bucks!.. I would much more be satified with the product you are using, Traffic Master you say it's like 25 bucks a gallon ? that still is alot cheaper compared to 25 dollar quart mixing 3 units of grout! lol thanks ahead!

ballengerb1

$25 per 3.5lbs tub, not a gallon. I have most of my stuff out at a job that I won't see until Saturday. I have used TrafficMaster with success but this other grout is different and I can't remember the name at the moment. I will in a day or two, age thing. I have a few 25 lbs door stops orf that 3 part expoxy, works well as a boat anchor too. That latricrete is like pudding when you mix part 1 & 2 but when you add the sand it gets like a very stiff mortar but it is very elastic and can sag for about 15 minutes, makes a messy verticle grout line.

jon123

I'm going with whatever you say at this point.. remember a few tile dropping because my thinset was to wet.. I want easiest solution for the ceiling , I will wait for your product.. I did read up on the traffic master sold at the home depots.. but if you know of something else you like using even better please let me know! I will gladly wait for you to post it in a few days.. I am in no real rush yet.. thanks again for sharing your skills and expertise bob, look forward to getting this job finished so I can do some fishing! been a weird winter and only did one ice fishing trip upstate ny.

ballengerb1

You can go ahead and set your tiles in the modified thinset and grout next week. I'm going to be getting some supplies tomorrow or Thursday and will check on the grout product name. We have had more than double the average snow here in Chicago. I'm sick of this white stuff. Ice fishermen had a big bond fire out on the lake in front of my cabin. They were warmed by the fire and what was in their bottles.

jon123

yeah, lots of snow, clouds moving in and alot of snw predicted here too... not doing so good business wise, but getting back to my home project in the bathrooms, downstairs still on hold due to order of vanity fixtures etc. can't do the tub yet either so all tiling is on hold. Upstairs is pretty much dome cept for grouting and outside alcove molding or bullnose. A question I have is that I did the ceiling first starting slightly inside the ceiling and was wondering should i have started the dropcieling bullnose first and pertruding the ceiling tile underneath the bullnose? Or being as it is, and as I see best, finish it with a composite detailed trim casing instead of tile to trim this outside line prior caulking with sand grout tube caulk? I have both materials here and think the casing looks better finished and will certainly be alot easier than trying to hang this bullnose.

ballengerb1

Man if you could show me a picture or drawing I/m sure I'd get what ytou said. However, reading your description was more than difficult for me. I guess I have difficulty what I read, sorry Jon. visualizing