At Ask Me Help Desk you can ask questions in any topic and have them
answered for free by our experts. To ask questions or participate in
answering them you must register for a free account. By registering you
will be able to:
Get free answers from experts in any of our 300+
topics.
I would use a brush. I would also use a finish that has some sheen to it, such as a satin to a gloss since moulding or trim might need to be washed from time to time. Also, brushing gives a much "warmer" look to the area that is painted by brushing.
I would use a brush. I would also use a finish that has some sheen to it, such as a satin to a gloss since moulding or trim might need to be washed from time to time. Also, brushing gives a much "warmer" look to the area that is painted by brushing.
Won't it create a "grainy" look? I've seen a lot of painted molding like that.
Won't it create a "grainy" look? I've seen a lot of painted molding like that.
Yes, it will create a "grainy" look. That is what I mean by it looking "warmer." A lot of people prefer this look on moulding or trim. It is a matter of personal preference and taste.
If you do decide to use a brush, then I would recommend getting one that tapers out to a very fine edge on the bristles, maybe even with a "cant" or slant to the edge. On 3.5 inch moulding, I would do well with a brush that is 2.5 inches wide on a board that is 3.5 inches wide. If you purchase a high enough quality brush, then the grain shouldn't be too grainy. That is what might happen with a cheap brush.
Just one more thing, there is an art to painting with a paint brush, (Also, with a roller for that matter.) If you paint the lines absolutely as straight as you can, then the job can look really great! It's kind of like in the old days, when farmers still used horses, people would judge how good the farmer was by how straight the rows he planted were. A number of years ago, I painted the walls and trim in my small, upstairs bathroom using nothing but brushes. lt looks great!
A roller would do fine, but then you would still have to paint the edges with a brush.
What type of paint are you going to use? An oil or water-based? No sheen or some sheen to it? Some kind of sheen is preferred for trim and moulding for washing purposes.
I did just find the following information on the following site which might also be of help to you. How do I Go About Painting MDF?
Quote:
MDF is an ideal wood to use for many interior home furnishings such as cabinetry because it is more stable, attractive, and cheaper than hardwood. It is also dense and flat, and because it has no recognizable surface grain, it can easily be cut, drilled, filled, or machined.
Quote:
MDF sometimes comes pre-primed, but if yours isn't then it is important to prime the surface before painting. You can use any number of water-based primers such as an emulsion paint or a proprietary acrylic primer. This base-coat of primer will help give the top coat a truer shade and will prevent it from being affected by the color of the MDF. The primer will also prevent MDF's tendency to result in a blotchy, uneven finish due to its porous surface.
When painting solid areas, paint brushes and paint rollers work well. For more intricate pieces, it's best to use spray paint instead of a brush or roller. This will cover the surfaces without an excessive build-up of paint.
Best results are often obtained by applying two coats of paint and fine sanding the wood in between coats. Any acrylic, water-based paint will suffice in painting a top coat of paint on the MDF. Also, keep in mind that painting both sides of the MDF will help prevent bowing when the paint dries.
The "grainy look" depends a lot on your prep and choice in paint. A cheap paint will often dry too quickly, not allowing enough time for the paint to level. Also, you'll get dry leading edges, which will make it look like you painted your trim in 1 foot intervals Same goes for not priming. The wood will absorb the paint too quickly, creating an incredibly uneven finish.
If you're concerned that you won't be able to paint quickly enough to keep the leading edge of the paint wet, consider adding Flotrol(if you're using waterbased paint) or Penetrol(if oil based) to your paint. This gives you more time to work with it, and it's advertised as providing a nicer finish...
As for prep, I fill all dents, holes and depressions with spackle then apply three coats of oil based primer and sand before installing the trim. I'm usually working with spruce or pine though, which is usually in desparate need of some smoothing
I dont like grainy my self and it doesnt have to be either, get a good paint and a good brush. your paint should cost you around $20 a gallon for trim paint, and use a purdy brush 2 1/2 " angle. the paint should be laytex, and i like high gloss. you get those to things it want look grainy, as far as painting it put 2 coats, it may not take more than a few hours for the laytex to dry and you can paint it again,
the grainy look comes from what i think is just the wrong brush and cheap paint
only time i use rollers is for the walls, ceilings
It does depend on what the painter wants the final job to look like.
I can't disagree with the above two answers. They are quite good. But, I would like to clarify something here as I don't think we are all quite on the same page. I think that we have different opinions about what "grainy" is. I would agree that the choice of paint and type of brush and brushing technique make a huge difference in how a paint job will look. Also, when there are times when it is desirable for a paint job to look perfectly flat and free of imperfection's.
Since I am a house painter, who does a lot of work in very old homes that might have some historical significance, as well as a builder of musical instruments like those in the harpsichord and rhythm family, the type of grain that I am speaking about on trim and molding is almost imperceptible. It is very desirable in a lot of instances, like when restoring older homes the way that they were originally painted, or when putting a paint finish on musical instruments that are traditionally painted down through the centuries, by using a brush.
I'm also speaking about using incredibly fine brushes that can cost the earth, like fitch (also called fiche, skunk or polecat) hair brushes. The bristles are incredibly fine. You don't find these kinds of brushes at your local paint store in the U.S., unless you live on the East coast in a town where some of the homes might be 150 to 200+ plus years old. I do also use brushes available at your local paint or hardware store, and I get the ones for a really fine paint job that are of the highest quality that I can find locally.
On newer construction, (say, forty to fifty years ago up to now, just a guess) then this type of grain may not be that desirable since it may not have any significance to how the home was historically decorated. The trend these days, is for a painted surface to look perfectly flat with no imperfections.
Most people don't go around scrutinizing paint jobs, unless they can't help but notice how bad it is because it practically "stares them in the face." But, those of us who have been painting or refinishing a long time can tell immediately how a paint or finish was applied, whether it was by brush, spray, roller or rubbed on.
I apologize for writing such a long post here. But, I felt that some clarification was necessary.
is the trim already installed, or are you installing new trim work? if not installed i would lay the trim out over saw horses, and use a roller and paint more than one piece at a time, unless you already either own, or have access to a sprayer. if you use a sprayer, be sure to clean it well at completion of the painting each session.
Same goes for not priming. The wood will absorb the paint too quickly, creating an incredibly uneven finish.
Linear Mode
