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Home > Home & Garden > Interior Home Improvement   »   Preparation for painting knotty pine table

 
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 07:39 PM
gale1
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Preparation for painting knotty pine table

Kitchen table is made of knotty pine. Top finish is rather worn and because the wood is a soft wood, you can read everything anyone has written on the table (kids homework). The rest of the table is in good shape. I believe the top of the table is a pine vaneer.
Would like to paint the entire kitchen set a flat black or brown and sand the edges for a worn rustic look. What is the proper way to fix the written indentions and prepare the surface prior to painting? Also, for a brush stroke free look, would it be better to use some type of spray paint. Would also like to prevent the writing from appearing on the table in the future= would a couple applications of a clear finish help with that? Advise.

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Old Nov 7, 2007, 09:05 PM   #11  
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Originally posted by gale1
yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools.
Even a compressor and a spray gun? Because using higher solids paints is going to be the way to go. Unless the painted surface has at least to or three coats of polyurethan or a high-solids lacquer.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 09:06 PM   #12  
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Do you have an idea as to what time you will be on tomorrow? I am usually on late at night.
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Old Nov 8, 2007, 01:23 AM   #13  
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Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the wholes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.
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yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools. what are your recommendations for sanding and I assume I would use a steel wool on everything else to rough the other surfaces up? clean with tac cloth and so on. Mineral spirits?
Is there a better no sheen paint on the market for furniture? Also, would several clear coats be beneficial for durability?Have only worked with wood stains before.
Got to go for now. Will check back tomorrow for your reply. Thanks so much for your help!!!
If the table has has any sort of finish on it already, then I would use a liquid or paste stripper to get the finish off of it. I use large putty knives, 00 steel wool and lacquer thinner for the clean-off of old finish. Also, lots of paper towels. Of course, adequate ventilation, gloves, goggles and a respirator are a must.

If it already has a finish on it, and you try to sand it off, then you are going to be using a lot of abrasive paper because the finish will be clogging up the paper. You also risk fish-eye and pin-holing in the finish if you don't use a liquid or paste paint stripper in order to remove all of the finish.

If you do use a palm sander, then I would use 100 grit aluminum oxide for a first sanding. And then, 150 grit for a final sand before applying the primer.

If you use several coats of a high solids, low sheen enamel, you should be fine. They would be the most durable. High quality lacquers that have a high solids content will also be fine. They are also easier to touch up then enamels. You can use several coats of a low-sheen polyurethane as top coats over the paint. But, if the table top gets marred, it's going to be harder to touch it up so that it looks really good. Using clear top coats is also going to make it difficult for you to get the low-sheen that I think that you want.

You are wanting no sheen or a flat type finish. Correct?

The preferred method would be to spray a finish on so that you don't have the brush marks that you are trying to avoid. However, if you are not able to spray the finish on, then brushing will work. In order to get rid of the brush marks (what little of them there will be) then you can wet sand using the black wet-dry papers. You spray water on the dry finish and then sand it using these papers. You would need to be using papers that are 320 grit first and then I would go to a 400 grit paper for the final sand.

If you do manage to spray on the coats of paint or if you are going to be brushing, I would recommend practicing first on a large board that can be discarded later if you don't need it for anything else. You would do the same steps in the finishing process like you will be doing on the table.

Between coat sanding can also be accomplish by using a 240 grit abrasive paper with the palm sander. But, because this is paint, you are more likely to clog up the abrasive paper more quickly.

I look forward to further dialogue with you concerning this.
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Old Nov 8, 2007, 01:41 AM   #14  
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By-the-way, satin or semi-gloss enamels and lacquers can both be ground down by wet sanding to produce a low-sheen finish.
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Old Nov 8, 2007, 04:35 AM   #15  
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After reading this thread I was thinking this;

If you are going to paint it and make it 'antiqued' try this:

1) Scuff the surface with 80-100 grit sandpaper

2) Prime the surface with a good primer, preferably sprayed on to eliminate brush strokes, as you mentioned that as a concern.

3) paint other colors around the edges only.( where you were going to put scuff marks giving it the 'Used' look.)

4) Paint with the black and scuff the edges

5) Clear coat new surface with polyurethane or spray on lacquer.Polyurethane is a more durable finish.

By painting you limit the small voids, but not eliminate them.

When you scuff the edges, the many layers of different colors underneath will make the appearance of an antique.
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