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Originally Posted by Clough
Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the wholes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.
I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.
Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.
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Originally Posted by gale1 yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools. what are your recommendations for sanding and I assume I would use a steel wool on everything else to rough the other surfaces up? clean with tac cloth and so on. Mineral spirits?
Is there a better no sheen paint on the market for furniture? Also, would several clear coats be beneficial for durability?Have only worked with wood stains before.
Got to go for now. Will check back tomorrow for your reply. Thanks so much for your help!!! |
If the table has has any sort of finish on it already, then I would use a liquid or paste stripper to get the finish off of it. I use large putty knives, 00 steel wool and lacquer thinner for the clean-off of old finish. Also, lots of paper towels. Of course, adequate ventilation, gloves, goggles and a respirator are a must.
If it already has a finish on it, and you try to sand it off, then you are going to be using a lot of abrasive paper because the finish will be clogging up the paper. You also risk fish-eye and pin-holing in the finish if you don't use a liquid or paste paint stripper in order to remove all of the finish.
If you do use a palm sander, then I would use 100 grit aluminum oxide for a first sanding. And then, 150 grit for a final sand before applying the primer.
If you use several coats of a high solids, low sheen enamel, you should be fine. They would be the most durable. High quality lacquers that have a high solids content will also be fine. They are also easier to touch up then enamels. You can use several coats of a low-sheen polyurethane as top coats over the paint. But, if the table top gets marred, it's going to be harder to touch it up so that it looks really good. Using clear top coats is also going to make it difficult for you to get the low-sheen that I think that you want.
You are wanting no sheen or a flat type finish. Correct?
The preferred method would be to spray a finish on so that you don't have the brush marks that you are trying to avoid. However, if you are not able to spray the finish on, then brushing will work. In order to get rid of the brush marks (what little of them there will be) then you can wet sand using the black wet-dry papers. You spray water on the dry finish and then sand it using these papers. You would need to be using papers that are 320 grit first and then I would go to a 400 grit paper for the final sand.
If you do manage to spray on the coats of paint or if you are going to be brushing, I would recommend practicing first on a large board that can be discarded later if you don't need it for anything else. You would do the same steps in the finishing process like you will be doing on the table.
Between coat sanding can also be accomplish by using a 240 grit abrasive paper with the palm sander. But, because this is paint, you are more likely to clog up the abrasive paper more quickly.
I look forward to further dialogue with you concerning this.