We have a new house with a basement and I would like to apply Drylock to the block walls before we move in, for two reasons:

1) Clean up/lighten the walls to make it a little cleaner and brighter down there
2) Add a little insurance in the waterproofing department--we have other waterproofing measures in place already

My question is about the Drylock masonry waterproofer products. Could anyone comment on the Latex Base, Oil Base, Extreme Latex-Base, and Powdered products found here: UGL - DRYLOK® Masonry - Masonry Waterproofer

How difficult are they to apply and work with? Which results in a better final coating? What is the point of the powdered version?

Sorry to ask so much, but this seems like a great place to get some information, and I hope that you can help me make a decision. Thanks in advance!!

KeepItSimpleStupid

I think all the answers are there. The powdered version is just a base coat. You nned to pain with something else. Some are stronger. If there is no real evidence of actual water on the block, then the simple Latex version should be fine. I've been happy with it inside and out. I haven't used any product below grade except for maybe 6".

I'll tell you now, it's all in the prep. Muratic acid (dilute Hydrochloric acid) or the powdered etch MUST be used after removing anything loose on the block. It's been suggested to neutralize the etch as well. Lots of ventilation and wear a respirator with an acid gas filter.

dtmille2

Thanks for the info and the quick response!

This is a new construction, the block were laid back in September (we're in NC), there are no signs of any kind of mildew or even lime etc. on the block--do you still think that the acid etch is necessary? I feel like that adds another level of difficulty to the project, and would like to avoid it. You seem to feel like it's essential, though, and if the job is worth doing it's worth doing right . . .

Thanks again!

KeepItSimpleStupid

The acid etch is ESSENTIAL!!. It's not hard. Scrape anything loose. In your case this would be mostly in the joints. Clean up the dust. Wet the block. You mix the dry stuff with warm water. Appply with warm water. Wait about 20 minutes. Rinse. Neutralize. Rinse. Paint when dry. Next day. Next week.

You may wish to protect the floor with a tarp.

You just need to wear goggles, use neoprene gloves and you'll end up throwing away your pants at the end. Once you wash them they will turn into swiss cheese. Ventilation is essential.

I was suggesting a respirator because it's such a large area.

dtmille2

Thanks again for all the info! We've decided to use the latex based version of the Drylock, to get a smoother finish and to avoid having to mix it. We'll see how it goes . . .

dtmille2

Just some follow-up info on the whole Drylock experience.

We had about 1400 sq. ft. of wall to cover. The Drylock is supposed to cover around 375 sq. ft. on the first coat, and more like 500 sq. ft. on the second coat. We were able to get 2 coats on all 1400 sq. ft. with about 22 gallons of Drylock, and that was putting it on thick enough that it really looks nice and bright.

The Drylock is thick and heavy, but it goes on pretty well with a roller. Don't get rollers with very long nap (greater than 1/2") or it will probably sling and splatter all over you. We put it on very thick on the first coat, and then the second coat was a breeze. In fact, we used close to 3 times as much paint on the first coat as on the second, for comparison.

So that's the story on our Drylock experience. We now have bright, clean basement walls, and even though the Drylock was $96 per 5 gallons here in NC, we are happy we went ahead and used it.

Thanks again for all the answers and information!