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Home > Home & Garden > Interior Home Improvement   »   Preparation for painting knotty pine table

 
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 07:39 PM
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Preparation for painting knotty pine table

Kitchen table is made of knotty pine. Top finish is rather worn and because the wood is a soft wood, you can read everything anyone has written on the table (kids homework). The rest of the table is in good shape. I believe the top of the table is a pine vaneer.
Would like to paint the entire kitchen set a flat black or brown and sand the edges for a worn rustic look. What is the proper way to fix the written indentions and prepare the surface prior to painting? Also, for a brush stroke free look, would it be better to use some type of spray paint. Would also like to prevent the writing from appearing on the table in the future= would a couple applications of a clear finish help with that? Advise.

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Old Nov 7, 2007, 07:44 PM   #2  
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Other than the indentations from the kids writing utensils, is the table top perfectly smooth and free of holes?
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:05 PM   #3  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clough
Other than the indentations from the kids writing utensils, is the table top perfectly smooth and free of holes?
Table is fairly smooth, there are some small indentions/holes from children using utensils(fork holes) otherwise in fair condition.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:08 PM   #4  
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I just sent you a private message to call your attention that I was here. Did you receive it?
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:11 PM   #5  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gale1
Table is fairly smooth, there are some small indentions/holes from children using utensils(fork holes) otherwise in fair condition.
How deep are the deepest indentations and holes, please?

Also, how thick would you say the very top piece of finish veneer is? (Usually, there are more that one sheet of veneer, a thick one for support of the finish veneer and then the finish veneer which might be no more than 1/16th of an inch thick.)
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:35 PM   #6  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clough
How deep are the deepest indentations and holes, please?

Also, how thick would you say the very top piece of finish veneer is? (Usually, there are more that one sheet of veneer, a thick one for support of the finish veneer and then the finish veneer which might be no more than 1/16th of an inch thick.)
Table has very small holes from childrens using fork prongs on the table. Vaneer is very thin. This was an inexpensive table, so I doubt there is a thicker vaneer beneath.??
Would fill and sand if it would have a better result.
Also considered using a crackel finish over the natual pine color.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:39 PM   #7  
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Do you want the surface of this table to be really durable, like for everyday use? If you do, then I wouldn't suggest using the crackle finish. Although attractive, it wouldn't be very durable.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:44 PM   #8  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clough
Do you want the surface of this table to be really durable, like for everyday use? If you do, then I wouldn't suggest using the crackle finish. Although attractive, it wouldn't be very durable.
Crackle was not my first choice. Need durability,sometimes as many as 7 sit at this table for eating and homework everyday.

Don't mind the small holes from forks-it gives it character.Do mind the hand writing though. Best to sand with 200 grit sand paper first? This is not my first time redoing/refinishing a piece of furniture......it is my first time painting vaneer, especially with the writing.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:50 PM   #9  
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Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the holes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.
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Old Nov 7, 2007, 08:58 PM   #10  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clough
Okay. So we don't need to get rid of the wholes. I like the idea for the character of the table. It actually is part of the memory of it.

I don't think that there is a 200 grit sandpaper. Usually the jump is from 180 to 220.

Do you own a palm sander? Knowing that will help us to determine the grits of abrasive paper to use.

yes me too. I have or have acess to most tools. what are your recommendations for sanding and I assume I would use a steel wool on everything else to rough the other surfaces up? clean with tac cloth and so on. Mineral spirits?
Is there a better no sheen paint on the market for furniture? Also, would several clear coats be beneficial for durability?Have only worked with wood stains before.
Got to go for now. Will check back tomorrow for your reply. Thanks so much for your help!!!
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