I'm remodeling a 1500' ranch house. Interior already gutted. Doing all work myself. Plan to install heat pump and ductwork myself as well. Seasoned DIY'er, but minimal experience with HVAC or ducting. Preliminary research leads me to believe that I should probably go with a 2.5 ton split system with a minimum 14 SEER. If I go with a split system, I'd prefer to use an upflow evaporator and route the ducts through the attic area using ceiling registers. Don't need the attic for storage and I like keeping the crawlspace open for routine maintenance, inspection, etc..

Some info about the house:
Built 1969
1500 sq. ft.
26'W x 57'L
Brick veneer siding - Wood windows to be replaced with Low-E vinyl windows
5/12 gable roof - ridge vent, soffit vents, gable vents (no powered vents)
Black architectural shingles (attic gets very hot during summer months)
No basement - Graded crawlspace slopes from 30" at one end to 18" at the other
Floor and ceiling joists 16"oc. Will be thoroughly insulated as part of remodel
Stick built roof with knee bolsters. No trusses.
No obstacles around exterior perimeter. Several options for placement of outdoor unit.
8' interior ceilings. Walls and ceilings to be finished with drywall.

Ok, now for the questions:

Split system or package system?
2.5 or 3 ton?
Brand recommendations?
Any serious drawbacks to using attic ducts and/or ceiling registers?

Thanks in advance for all responses. Will be happy to provide additional info if needed.

Michael
Darlington, SC

NorthernHeat

It is a small house, I would use a downflow furnace, coils are coils if they are virtical only the horizontal coils are different. Put the coil under the air handler, some manufactureres want the coil on top, making it a pull through coil on top of the air handler, doesnt relly matter tho. Return ductwork in the attic, supplies in the crawl. Returns in at least the master bedroom, who cares about the kids? just kidding. And I would like to see a floor plan to tell you how many more you should add, but 3 or 4 if sized right will work very well. Attic ductwork I would do in flex. Returns can use the wall cavity for the ductwork and are easy to pan-off in the attic.

MichaelG

Great info. Remind me to send you a Christmas card - a nice one!

I'll see if I can generate a floor plan and attach it to a post so you can see what kind of area I'm working with. What about the filter? Would I need to rig up something to accomodate it?

Michael

NorthernHeat

No you don't need a return in each room, 3 or 4 properly sized returns will be better than 1 central return. And yes you will probably want at least one supply ran to each room sized according to the heat loss/gain of each room.

MichaelG

I've attached the floorplan. Hope it's formatted correctly.

Michael

Attached Images

 

letmetellu

One thought about placing the unit in the hallway, some areas do not let you put a furnace or water heater in a hallway where a fire could block exit from the bedrooms on the end of the hall. Goodman is use quite a bit in my area and seems to be very good equipment. The question about sweating should be solved by using a good two inch insulation with a good vapor barrier. About the warranty being voided because it is a do it yourself installation. I don't think that would be a problem is you are doing it in your own home and get the permit in your name and have a licensed installer do the actual freon work and then sign off on it.

MichaelG

"One thought about placing the unit in the hallway, some areas do not let you put a furnace or water heater in a hallway where a fire could block exit from the bedrooms on the end of the hall."

This will be a total electric split heat pump system. No Gas. Going with a tankless electric water heater also.

Michael