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Carrier furnace turns off before target temp, then right back on
Asked Jan 8, 2010, 10:04 AM
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23 Answers I have a approx. 6 year old Carrier 58STA110 natural gas furnace. The blower motor and circuit board was replaced last year. I have installed a new digital thermostat, and the problem is still happening. The filter is new. No return vents are blocked. There is no signal of an error on the furnace LED. The heating system will call for heat and the system seems to respond appropriately. The blower comes on and heat is pumped into the house. After some time it seems that the whole system suddenly stops. The blower goes off and no gas is being burned. I can hear a small, what I believe sounds like a fan, running inside the unit. I am guessing that is the inducer. Within 30 seconds the gas kicks on and the system runs again. When the system is stopping, the temp in the house is below the target temp. It seems that the some of the pauses last longer then 30 seconds during the middle of the night. It is very cold outside right now (sub-zero over night). The system is not able to get the temp inside close to the target over night. This has never been a problem before. It is set at 71, but have seen it drop to 64. This has been happening for weeks now, while outside temps were much higher. |
23 Answers
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| I verified that every register in my house is open. The filter was put in this morning, despite the fact that the "old" one was basically new. The rest of the things to do are above my skill level I guess. Unless I can do the "Flame rollout switch Requires manual reset." But this seems to mean that the furnace did that. I have a feeling this is a faulty limit switch based on everything else I have read. In fact last night I was in the furnace trying to see if I could reset the manual ones, as the owners manual shows where they are and says to flip them before making a service call. I was not sure if I did it right, as the button you are supposed to push did not feel like a button. The main switch, does not appear to have a button. I really cannot afford to have someone come out here. I already am having to fix the stupid Honeywell humidifier that it attached to this thing. I suspect the solenoid went out on it. Anyways, I think I can do that myself. It is all external and the fix-it kit is only $66. | ||||
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| A partially restricted exhaust pipe or for that matter a combustion air pipe could also cause this. You might check the pipes outside to be sure they are not restricted. | ||||
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| There appears to be two switches behind the gas valve. The owners manual identifies this as the main limit switch. How can I find out what the part number for the switch is? Do you know what the part number would be? I think this is it ----- Carrier HH18HA499 Limit Switch. What do you think? | ||||
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| http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/gr...t/58st-5pd.pdf | ||||
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| This is not a manual reset limit switch. There is not button or pin. The only limit switches with pins are the roll-out ones. There are two swtiches spaced a few inches apart that are connected together. My main question is, how do I know what the part number is for these switches? | ||||
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| Unless you can find a parts book OR a web site that converts Exact model numbers to part numbers I have no idea unless you want to actually take the part loose and see what numbers are on it. Many times that info will be right on the part itself. By the way you might call them roll out switches but Carrier calls them manual reset limit switches and the main limit switch is behind the gas valve. Sorry about my confusion with the nomenclature being used. My Carrier parts info is not on this computer so I can be of no assistance from here. Sorry about that. | ||||
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| One last question. We spoke of jumping out the switch before. On the back of switches these are two wires. If I disconnect the wires and touch them together, is this jumping the switch out? The photo attached is of the switches that I am speaking of. Please tell me if I am way off here. | ||||
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| Leave the jumper wire it is and jump the two single wires together that are on the bottom part of the switches. Remember this is temporary for test purposes so do not run the machine for any length of time. The problem that caused these items to trip is still possibly there and major problems could happen. If for some reason they do not cause the unit to fire when jumped unjump them and test again in that condition. I do not have my wiring diagram for the circuit board in that unit and they could be reverse style limits. | ||||
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