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    brerose's Avatar
    brerose Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jul 8, 2007, 03:25 PM
    Tomatoes rotting on bottom
    My tomatoes are rotting on the bottom while still on the vine. Can anyone help?
    catburgaler2's Avatar
    catburgaler2 Posts: 5, Reputation: 2
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    #2

    Sep 5, 2007, 05:13 PM
    You probably have too much water. This leeches out calcium. If the soil is already too wet you can't get any new calcium in to the soil. Try to keep any more water from especially the leaves but also the ground. Fertilize with bone meal next year.
    Clough's Avatar
    Clough Posts: 26,677, Reputation: 1649
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    #3

    Sep 5, 2007, 05:28 PM
    You might also find the following helpful to you. It is from the following site: Blossom End Rot Fact sheet

    Blossom End Rot of Tomato

    Blossom end rot is a troublesome disease, familiar to most gardeners who have grown tomatoes. The disease is often prevalent in commercial as well as home garden tomatoes, and severe losses may occur if preventive control measures are not undertaken.

    Symptoms may occur at any stage in the development of the fruit, but, most commonly, are first seen when the fruit is one-third to one-half full size. As the name of the disease implies, symptoms appear only at the blossom end of the fruit. Initially a small, water-soaked spot appears, which enlarges and darkens rapidly as the fruits develop. The spot may enlarge until it covers as much as onethird to one-half of the entire fruit surface, or the spot may remain small and superficial. Large lesions soon dry out and become flattened, black, and leathery in appearance and texture.

    This disease does not spread from plant to plant in the field, nor from fruit to fruit in transit. Since it is of a physiological nature, fungicides and insecticides are useless as control measures. The occurrence of the disease is dependent upon a number of environmental conditions, especially those that affect the supply of water and calcium in the developing fruits. Factors that influence the uptake of water and calcium by the plant have an effect on the incidence and severity of blossom end rot. The disease is especially prevalent when rapidly growing, succulent plants are exposed suddenly to a period of drought. When the roots fail to obtain sufficient water and calcium to be transported up to the rapidly developing fruits, the latter become rotted on their basal ends. Another common predisposing factor is cultivation too close to the plant; this practice destroys valuable roots, which take up water and minerals. Tomatoes planted in cold, heavy soils often have poorly developed root systems. Since they are unable to supply adequate amounts of water and nutrients to plants during times of stress, blossom end rot may result. Soils that contain excessive amounts of soluble salts may predispose tomatoes to the disease, for the availability of calcium to the plants decreases rapidly as total salts in the soil increase.

    Control

    Control of blossom end rot is dependent upon maintaining adequate supplies of moisture and calcium to the developing fruits. Tomatoes should not be excessively hardened nor too succulent when set in the field. They should be planted in welldrained, adequately aerated soils. Tomatoes planted early in cold soil are likely to develop blossom end rot on the first fruits, with the severity of the disease often subsiding on fruits set later. Thus, planting tomatoes in warmer soils helps to alleviate the problem. Irrigation must be sufficient to maintain a steady even growth rate of the plants. Mulching of the soil is often helpful in maintaining adequate supplies of soil water in times of moisture stress. When cultivation is necessary, it should not be too near the plants nor too deep, so that valuable feeder roots remain uninjured and viable. In home gardens, shading the plants is often helpful when hot, dry winds are blowing, and soil moisture is low. Use of fertilizer low in nitrogen, but high in superphosphate, such as 4-12-4 or 5-20-5, will do much to alleviate the problem of blossom end rot. In emergency situations, foliage can be sprayed with calcium chloride solutions. However, extreme caution must be exercised since calcium chloride can be phytotoxic if applied too frequently or in excessive amounts. Foliar treatment is not a substitute for proper treatment of the soil to maintain adequate supplies of water and calcium.

    Although differences exist among varieties with respect to susceptibility to blossom end rot, no varieties as yet have commercially useful resistance.
    MOWERMAN2468's Avatar
    MOWERMAN2468 Posts: 3,214, Reputation: 243
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    #4

    Sep 6, 2007, 07:26 PM
    I was going to say it was blossom end rot, and there is a spray chemical calcium that you can obtain at co-op and treat this years crop. Then put lime down this fall.
    John Da's Avatar
    John Da Posts: 195, Reputation: 3
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    #5

    Sep 8, 2007, 11:19 AM
    Definitely BER. Next year lime, or use Gypsum . Good Luck :)
    nanak13's Avatar
    nanak13 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Aug 9, 2011, 02:14 PM
    Thank you all for your wonderful answers we will using them.
    Crocus_Girl's Avatar
    Crocus_Girl Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Sep 20, 2011, 12:28 PM
    Crushed eggshells that have been rinsed out is good also.
    tecan2's Avatar
    tecan2 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jun 17, 2013, 11:30 AM
    Can I spray a Epsom salt for calcium deficiency THIS IS FOR ROOT ROT
    cyclops13-13's Avatar
    cyclops13-13 Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jul 16, 2013, 08:01 AM
    I have been told the same thing about the egg shells in addition coffee grounds were mentioned, will this help? And will a combination of the two do any good?
    terinbee's Avatar
    terinbee Posts: 7, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Dec 9, 2013, 02:07 AM
    Blossom end rot is technically caused by calcium deficiency, but underwatering or uneven watering prevents the plant from uptaking the calcium in the soil, so check your watering practices first before you spend money on supplements. Also, things like egg shell and oyster shell are nice and organic for using year round to build up calcium levels, but they are not strong enough to put calcium in the soil to fix a plant that is already depleted. For an organic option that adds calcium AND feeds a high amount of phosphorus for fruit & bloom production, fertilize with bone meal. And a GREAT pick-me-up for stressed tomato plants is Alaska liquid fish emulsion. Smells awful, works wonders.

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