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    gilbert_c's Avatar
    gilbert_c Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 24, 2013, 08:40 PM
    Wiring a levitron pr180 in place of a standard wall switch
    My existing wall switch has a black wire, a white wire and a ground. I want to replace it with a Levitron PR180 Occupancy Sensing Switch. The pr180 has a red wire, a black wire, a yellow with a red stripe wire. How do I wire it to my existing switch wiring?
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #2

    Jan 24, 2013, 08:52 PM
    Pr180. Isn't that a 3 way? What you have in the box is a single pole switch loop. With the wiring you have, if the. Leviton is a 3 way, it can't be done.
    gilbert_c's Avatar
    gilbert_c Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 24, 2013, 09:02 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ma0641 View Post
    Pr180. Isn't that a 3 way? What you have in the box is a single pole switch loop. With the wiring you have, if the. Leviton is a 3 way, it can't be done.
    Holy crap! That's what I get for going to Home depot. I knew I should have gone to Lowe's.

    I also have a Pass and Seymour Occupancy Sensing switch rated for flourscent or incondescent that has a black (hot) Red (load) and white neutral. Can I uet that in this application?
    ma0641's Avatar
    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #4

    Jan 24, 2013, 09:18 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by gilbert_c View Post
    Holy crap! That's what I get for going to Home depot. I knew I should have gone to Lowes.

    I also have a Pass and Seymour Occupancy Sensing switch rated for flourscent or incondescent that has a black (hot) Red (load) and white neutral. Can I uet that in this application?
    Don't know why there is a neutral on a switch. You can try to install but will need to find whether the white or black is hot. By code it should be the white. Then, connect hot to black on switch and red to light lead. I just installed one for a customer and it only had line and load.
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    gilbert_c Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 24, 2013, 09:38 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by ma0641 View Post
    Don't know why there is a neutral on a switch. You can try to install but will need to find whether the white or black is hot. By code it should be the white. Then, connect hot to black on switch and red to light lead. I just installed one for a customer and it only had line and load.
    I think that's what I must have, The white is hot. So the other terminal (black) would be the load? Is that correct?
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    ma0641 Posts: 15,675, Reputation: 1012
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    #6

    Jan 24, 2013, 09:42 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by gilbert_c View Post
    I think that's what I must have, The white is hot. So the other terminal (black) would be the load? Is that correct?
    Yes. Code does require the retasked white to be marked by using a piece of black tape or blacken with a magic marker. Hope this helps.
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    gilbert_c Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 24, 2013, 09:59 PM
    It should. I'll give it a try. I kind of wondered. When I took the light from it's box, they had a black and white wire twisted together. At first I found that odd. It looks as though the power continues to another switsk that controld my outside light off my garage side door.
    Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
    hfcarson's Avatar
    hfcarson Posts: 1,003, Reputation: 49
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    #8

    Jan 25, 2013, 05:19 AM
    I think we should stop for bit and be "sure" we know where to go...
    I don't think that an Occupancy sensor from a reputable supplier would make a mistake with the color code of a wire that would require a re-marking..
    Occupancy sensors "DO" have a neutral conductor for operation of the sensor, in the past it was connected to the ground conductor because the current is very low... 2011 NEC now requires neutrals to be provided at all switch locations in new construction just for connection of occupancy sensors should they be installed...

    Maybe I'm off here, but please Google the installation instructions from the manufacturer before you install this switch...
    stanfortyman's Avatar
    stanfortyman Posts: 5,598, Reputation: 279
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    #9

    Jan 25, 2013, 05:36 AM
    Occupancy sensors "DO" have a neutral conductor for operation of the sensor, in the past it was connected to the ground conductor because the current is very low..
    NO, this was never the case. Certainly people did it out of desperation, but it is still and unsafe and highly non-complaint practice.
    The amount of current is irrelevant. It's still objectionable current on a grounding conductor.
    stanfortyman's Avatar
    stanfortyman Posts: 5,598, Reputation: 279
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    #10

    Jan 25, 2013, 05:40 AM
    The PR180 is a single-pole or 3-way switch, that does not require a neutral.
    The instructions are very clear.
    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.dmQ&cad=rja

    You do have a switch loop. You need a tester, and know how to use it, to figure out which of the white and black are hot and load.

    See the diagram, "wiring diagram 1" in the instructions. On the switch hot goes to black, the load goes to red, and the yellow gets capped off.
    hfcarson's Avatar
    hfcarson Posts: 1,003, Reputation: 49
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    #11

    Jan 25, 2013, 08:05 AM
    Stan,
    You are correct the PR180 does not require a neutral... at least not yet,
    This sensor to operate does require a small amount of standby current in the "off" state to allow immediate switching to the "on" condition... this standby current has used the equipment ground conductor up until now... new occupancy sensors are now being manufactured with separate neutral and equipment ground conductors...
    Please see the 2011 NEC handbook 404.2(C) for a better explanation than the one I have provided,
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