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bitenot · Jun 8, 2007, 07:34 PM

Hi. The light bulbs in my kitchen and dining area keep blowing out. I hired an electrician to do some other work, and he said my bulbs just blew. However, after I purchased new bulbs, they still blew out. Some of the bulbs are halogen and others are incandescent. I don't have any problems with the outlets.

Thanks for your help.

CONFUSED in San Rafael, CA

whoaitspris · Jun 8, 2007, 07:40 PM

Ghosts? Lol. Just kidding. I'm not sure. Maybe call another electrician out there and get there opinion? Good luck.

Washington1 · Jun 8, 2007, 09:12 PM

RED FLAG

Q1:Ok, when you say the bulbs are blowing, can you describe. Example: are they blowing as soon as you turn the light switch on, or does it take a few days before they blow?

>Your electrician needs to take a volatge test at the panel<

Q2: Are any working lights in the house dim or too bright?

bitenot · Jun 8, 2007, 09:50 PM

Originally Posted by Washington1

RED FLAG

Q1:Ok, when you say the bulbs are blowing, can you describe. example: are they blowing as soon as you turn the light switch on, or does it take a few days before they blow?

>Your electrician needs to take a volatge test at the panel<

Q2: Are any working lights in the house dim or too bright?

Hi. The bulbs take a few days to a few weeks to blow out. I haven't noticed that any lights in the house are too dim or too bright.

Thanks.

Stratmando · Jun 9, 2007, 05:44 AM

Sounds like maybe a loose Neutral. Identify circuit that keeps blowing bulbs, Remove Panel cover and see if you can tell which other circuit is maybe sharing neutral, will be going in same conduit, Check all white wires, verify other connections while you have
Apart. Can be in recpticle, switch box, light fixture(Basically any junction or place of connections.)
Also, have electrician check voltage and changes, when other half of Multicircuit has load applied and removed.

Good Luck.

Washington1 · Jun 9, 2007, 09:45 AM

Good to hear the lights aren't dim or too bright on occassion--this would have been a more serious problem.

Try this first (curious)
Take down one of the light fixtures-that keeps blowing bulbs-and do a voltage test (Need a digital meter) with the light switch on (Making safety first). Let us know the reading?

letmetellu · Jun 9, 2007, 10:24 AM

If you determine that you do not have a wiring problem and that what is causing the lights to "blow" is that you are using up the hours that they are suppose to be good for. There are bulbs that are of a higher voltage that you can buy, such as 130 volt, these bulbs will last lots longer and are only just a little dimmer than the 120 volt bulbs, it is hardly noticeable. Also if these bulbs are under fans you can buy bulbs that are good for the use under fans, they withstand the vibration of the fan.

Washington1 · Jun 9, 2007, 10:29 AM

Thanks Letmet for helping us along to the next step. Exactly! Let is correct, and this is what we where going to do next. Yet, you will need to do a voltage test first.

bolen electric · Feb 4, 2010, 09:55 PM

Why does everyone look for the complex answer. All manufacturers make cheap ones and good ones.
Go to a light bulb store, and ask for 130 VOLT. Any WATTAGE. The stores sell 120 volt, the cheap ones.

Stratmando · Feb 5, 2010, 07:17 AM

Originally Posted by bolen electric

Why does everyone look for the complex answer. All manufacturers make cheap ones and good ones.
Go to a light bulb store, and ask for 130 VOLT. Any WATTAGE. The stores sell 120 volt, the cheap ones.

Because they don't make 130 Volt TV's and refrigerators, While a 130 volt bulb may last longer than a 120 volt bulb on a circuit with an open neutral, does not fix a high voltage problem.

bolen electric · Feb 5, 2010, 07:25 AM

You can not control the voltage coming in to your home, you can buy a bulb that can handle it though.
In Mexico they use 140 volt bulbs because the power is so erratic.
A TV has a transformer, and a fridge has a motor, neither of which suffer as much as from the higher voltage
As the element in a light bulb.
A circuit with an open neutral, would not work at all.

Stratmando · Feb 5, 2010, 07:53 AM

A "Multicircuit" with and Open/Loose neutral can do Major damage and even create a fire.

bolen electric · Feb 5, 2010, 12:26 PM

I would note that a multi-wire branch circuit with two opposing phases sharing a neutral that becomes
"lost" will destroy any 120 volt appliance that's plugged in to the effected circuit.
But, I was just talking about light bulbs.

Stratmando · Feb 5, 2010, 12:52 PM

I didn't know light bulbs are only thing on this circuit.
Hopefully they got this fixed by now.

valentine14 · Jan 7, 2012, 01:33 PM

Mine have been doing same but only when daughter turns the switch on the bulbs blow and fuse the main box
This as happen about 6 times in last two weeks

reptarlequin · Jun 27, 2012, 09:53 PM

Originally Posted by Washington1

Good to hear the lights aren't dim or too bright on occassion--this would have been a more serious problem.

Washington1, would you mind elaborating a bit on this? My kitchen lights are often dim when I first flip the switch. The light output level "normalizes" after a bit, and it doesn't happen every time I turn them on, but when it does happen it's a pretty substantial difference in brightness. How worried should I be?

tkrussell · Jun 28, 2012, 05:17 AM

What kind of lamps do you have in the kitchen fixture?

reptarlequin · Jun 30, 2012, 02:41 AM

CFL's, and more specifically, one of the 'incognito' kinds that is made to resemble a flood light or a globe, etc.

Here – direct from box: "Conserv-Energy Compact Fluorescent R30 Reflectors; 65 watt replacement; not dimmable" in case you're unsure of which kind I'm referring to.

tkrussell · Jun 30, 2012, 02:49 AM

CFL's can be dim when first turned on, this is very common.

See here:

CFL Myths and Facts

Depending on the peak voltage at the time of energizing, it can take a few seconds to vaporize the mercury inside to full brilliancy.

reptarlequin · Jul 8, 2012, 02:35 AM

OK cool, thank you