I have a Whirlpool Duet washer/dryer set in my laundry room. There is a dedicated, 20A circuit for the room which serves two receptacles and two overhead 50W low voltage lights. Both the washer and dryer are plugged into one of the receptacles and there is nothing else plugged into the other receptacle.

When both units are operating the lights flicker... sometimes severe. It's the washer that's causing it as it turns off and on repeatedly. I know it's not recommended to place lights on the same circuit as receptacles but I wanted to keep everything on the same circuit for simplicity sake, which I see was not a bright idea now.

Anyway, I could run a separate new circuit for the lights but that seems almost a waste of a slot in my already filled panel. There are only a couple slots left. Any other ideas for a resolution for this problem? Since the washer turning off and on causes the lights to flicker quite noticeablly is it hurting the dryer motor any?


Also, as I was browsing through the owners manuals for these appliances I noticed that Whirlpool recommends a separate circuit for each one. Is that really necessary? I guess that would answer my other question above, but that would mean I would have three dedicated circuits to the laundry room.

Without knowing the load amps or watts of each unit, I can't say if both units will work properly on one circuit, really should do as the manufacturer requires. Give me the load amps or watts of each unit so I can determine if both will run on one circuit.

The motor is causing a voltage drop, which is normal, and is being detected by the lights, and since the low voltage lights have transformers to deliver 12 volts to the lamps, the VD is being amplified ,so to speak. The lights can be connected to a nearby lighting or general purpose circuit.

Thanks TK.

I have tried to find the power specs for the units but there info. Is not listed anywhere on their website or in the manuals. So, I called Whirlpool and talked to a woman on the phone who really didn't know a whole lot about what I was seeking. But, she did put me on hold to ask someone else, I presummed someone who would know the correct answers, and this is what she came back with.

The washer uses 1400 watts running and an additional 1000 when the internal water heater kicks in. That's a total of 2400 watts, which is the upper limit of the 20A circuit. I'm not sure I believe this information to be correct. The installation manual recommends a 20A circuit for the unit. I would think that if the unit was designed to use all 2400 watts of a circuit then the manufacture would recommend a circuit of a higher limit to give some breathing room.

Now, the dryer is supposed to be using 1800 watts, running. Don't forget this a gas dryer, so the only thing using electricity is the motor and a few LED lights. According to my calculations that would mean the motor is using 15A.

Anyway, here's the part that leads me to believe the information I was given is incorrect. I currently have both units plugged into a 20A circuit, and according to the above calculations my CB should have tripped continuously with both units operating, plus the two 50W lights connected to the circuit.

I suppose if I dig hard enough I could eventually get to someone who could give me the correct information. Some day when I have the units removed and out from their closet area I will turn them over, and around and see if I can find the data plates with the power specs listed... there's got to be one somewhere.

In the mean time I think I what I will do is pull the existing 12-2NM wire and replace it with a 12-3 and split the plug receptacle so each unit has it's own 20A circuit... and I will find another source for the lights. Don't worry, I know when using a common neutral I need to split the hots onto different phases in the panel. It will be OK to wire it this way?

Thanks for the help TK... Randy

Yes just be sure all neutral connections are good and tight, a loose shared neutch will allow abnormal high volts on both loads.

The namplate should be accessible form the front usually on the door or even in the door jamb, but it should be there someplace in front

Published info is sometimes a bit higher than real, plus new equipment runs efficiently with new breaker not running long will continue to run sometimes.

Also you need to use a 2 pole breaker to bring two circuits to one device.

Found the nameplate with the model no. serial no. and all that, but no power usage specs. It's like they don't want anyone to know. These units are supposed to be the high efficiency models but I don't see how with the numbers they gave me. Maybe as far as water usage goes, but surely not electricity.

You talking about a twin breaker here?

Well there should be a nameplate someplace, but since your going to run a new circuit, guess it is not that important.

No not a twin, or tandem, and real 2 pole circuit breaker rated 120/240 volts, would normally feed a 240 volt load. This CB is required in a residential circuit when two 120 volt circuits feeds one device, such as you are planning.

OK, I see what you mean, and that will b e a problem as I don't have the available space for that type breaker. Can I just put in a double box with two receptacles and label them, or would that be a no-no.

Sure, if you mean a double box with two separate receptacles, one circuit for each. You should have space for that breaker since it use 2 pole spaces, and you are going to add a breaker. Do you mean that you don't have 2 pole space next to each other? You can shift other breakers around to get two spaces together. But whichever is easier for you.

Any more questions, do not hesitate to get back with them.

I only have a few slots left in my panel so I am trying to save as many as possible for future expansion, which is why I want to use the twin breakers, which means I can't use the single device as you pointed out.

I'm glad you mentioned that as I would not have thought of it.

Thanks... Randy

Well, TK, just to update you, I was finally able to find the power specs for these units. The label on the washer says 12 amps. It didn't specify if that included the water heater or not, but the 12A puts it right at what the Whirlpool agent told me it was... 1400 watts running.

The dryer said 6 amps. Quite a bit less than what I was told. 6A puts it at 720 watts and I was told 1800 watts. Maybe she looked up the specs for an electric dryer, even though I gave her the model number for the gas unit... who knows.

Anyway, I've already made the electrical changes so it doesn't really matter anymore. Now they are each on their own circuit.

Oh, and the flickering light that started all of this. It finally quit all together, but when I went to replace it I found the bulb to be OK. It was the sockets that the two pins go into that were loose. I replaced the entire light assembly with a new one and it works good now. I did move it to a different power source, although I think I probably could have left it on with the dryer and been OK.

I'm just glad I was able to find all of this before I closed up the walls for good.