I have a 60 amp fuse box it has 6 s type fuses all say 30 amp, I believe these should have been different values. 2 of 6 of these fuse slots don't work, so the previous owner just doubled up the lines on the fuses that work.

This is a mobile home with an adition which is tied to the pwer where the furnace was removed. I have 3 floorboard heaters w/ thermostats that need wired in, however I would like to change the fuse box to a breaker box first.

- would this work to replace 60amp to 100 amp?

100 Amp Indoor Load Center Value Pack

- Do I need romex 12/2 to wire the new baseboard heaters?

Chris,

Are you new to electrical work? If you are, then I would suggest that you call an electrician.

60 amp current can very quickly kill you dead.

You have two major problems. Number one being why the two fuse links aren't working as well as what loads are attached to them.

It is very critical that you know what is being fed by each circuit.

Number two would be making sure that your power box is wired correctly before it burns to the ground. 30 amp service requires 10 AWG wiring. I'll bet that your trailer is not strung with no. 10 cable.

12/2 will handle 20 amp. And 15 amp uses 14 AWG. Is there an original fuse layout inside the fuse box?

The cover reads GENERAL 60 amp volts 120-240ac

1-dryer = confused because dryer is 240 and has 2 fuse type on in a box outside on pole
2-washer = has another line doubled here could be xtra room
3-Water heater
4- Wall Radio =fuse socket bad =No wall radio not sure what this is-nothing attached
5- Furnace (xtra room now)=fuse socket bad - nothing attached
6-Dishwasher = no dishwasher here. has another line doubled here

I am concerned the fuses are rated at 30 amp and I believe these should be lower values to prevent overload/heating. With this cold front we are using 2 electric portable heat units.

I bought this place and couldn't believe it didn't have a single smoke detector in it.
I have experience in electronics but not electrical wiring.

I would call someone to install it but would rather know what I need and get it all before I get taken on a ride of expenses.

MY pic on name is my fuse box, I didn't know how to post a pic, it seems to want a url.

thanks for replying

Okay, Chris,

Lets see if I can help some. There is a an electrician on the site TK Russell, he's swamped right now, but if you are at all unsure of my advice, please wait for him.

By the way the NEC 2008 codebook has been released it cost me $75.

Here we go:

1) Dryer - Should not be on its pole box outside.

By code, you are only allowed one service entrance into the domicile. There are several exceptions to the rule but I seriously doubt that a trailer your size would qualify for them. You should only have one service if you find a second drop, that ties to your place I recommend that you call the power company and get them out. The previous owner may have been stealing power.

If the dryer is a 220/240 dryer, then it would use 2 fusible 110/120 sources. Each fuse would have a conductor and ground. You can use 10/3 with a common neutral (white). Black would go to one fuse, red would go to the other. White to the neutral buss and ground to the ground buss.

2) A laundry washer does not need 240VAC. And as far as I know should be perfectly fine on 12/2 110/120.

Never, never double up on branch circuits to a fusible terminal. Flat out violation not to mention fire hazard.

3) Is this a single 110/120 branch circuit. Is your heater fueled by propane?

4) Bad socket must be replaced. Verify the integrity of the wiring. Also, verify the wall unit is properly connected. Sometimes these old radios went toes up and the end user never repaired them.

5 & 6) You really need to wring out these extra wires and find out where they are going.

Some have to be devoted to lights and outlets. In a normal residence, the refrigerator is required to be on a separate circuit. I don't know if the same is true for a trailer.

Unless you have a disconnect out at the pole, you will have to work with the power company, and they will wisely insist on having an electrician making the service connections. The incoming lines, meter, meter base, and main breaker need to match more or less. Since 60 amp service is obsolete, it is possible your lines, and meter are already at least 100 amp. If they are only 60 amp, they would need to be upgraded or you would have to replace the 100 amp main with a 60. It would be best, maybe required, to upgrade everything to 100 amp.

Once you have service to the new box, you would need to identify the size of the existing wiring and match the breakers to the wire, 15 amp to #14 and 20 to #12.

There are a number of details you will need help on. I would suggest getting a basic wiring book, reading it, and posting back anything you aren't clear on.

Chris,

I read NEC Code section 550, of the NEC 2008 code.

It seems that mobile homes are in fact limited to one service entry point and it is a (max) 21 ft. female receptale, which in turn connects to the main panel. The code shows 50 amp as max current.

The 2008 may not be adopted yet in all areas. This will happen in most states after January 2008 legislature session begins.

Do not use 2008 edition as a reference until it has been adopted in your state.

Need to be clear here, 2005 NEC Article 550 is for Mobile AND Manufactured Homes.

Manufactured homes use a permenently installed service, not a cord, which needs to be the min 100 amp service. See 550.10 (I) regarding calculated load.

TK,

Thanks for the follow-up. Does your reply mean that different states could have different code release dates for use. For example, Virginia might choose to approve 2005 code while North Carolina may only allow up to 1999?

Also, in re-studying section 550 this morning I discovered that looking for a short quick answer without knowledge of how the code book actually works will get you the wrong answer as proven above.

I will be much more circumspect as I move further with both study guide and code book.

Yes, there may be some states still on the 1999, most I believe are on the 2005, therefore, always best to check with the state that you reside in to determine which is in effect, let alone bring in a new edition.

One rule I stress in teaching how to read the code, is read the entire article, while noting which other articles may be included with the topic you are working on, and refer to those, as there maybe waivers, exceptions, etc. to the specific topic that is in question.

At first glance,so to speak, the code appears to be very strict, stringent, and unbending. Once one learns how to read the code, you will find it can be your friend.

Now that I am here, a few comments, in no particular order:

Crisn, the one thing you touched upon is the oversized fuses. You are very correct and is cause for concern. Don and Labman mention this also. I must stress, all the 30 amp screw in fuses must be replaced with the fuse size that fits the smallest wire connected to that fuse. I understand that you have a few wires doubled on one fuse, this is not the worst thing, but I assure you reducing the fuse size to the correct size to match the wire will cause fuses to blow as now they will be overloaded. Now with the 30 amp fuses the wire can be overloaded, the fuse won't blow, but the wires will overheat, and this is how fires start.

I am not sure how your going to get this done, but the service will need to be upgraded before you start connecting electric heat, or much of what you have you cannot run in the home while the heat is on.


Don, why mention a second service? This I am sure is not the case, and only confuses the topic.

The "sockets" mentioned that do not work are the fuse holders. I am sure they are defective due to overloading and heat, and are not repairable, and the panel needs to be changed.


As far as the dryer, I bet the main is at the meter on the pole, and this was the only location a dryer circuit could be added. I see no issue with this senario. A new service will make this better.

The panelboard found at the link is a Main Lug Only panel, and will need a Main Breaker which can be at the meter location on the pole.

While #12 is the typical size wire for most electric heaters, before anyone can speculate, really need to know the voltage and wattage of each heater.

Along with a new complete service, to include panelboard, meter, Main Disconnect, riser conduit and wire, feeder conduit or cable from main to panelboard, and all necessary grounding, I get that there are several other issues in the home that you may or may not be able to handle.

You do mention that you will hire someone to change the panel. Ask for an estimate to correct any other issues, such as the smoke detectors. Once you have a design and scope of work you can negotiate to purchase the proper materials to get the job done.

Thanks for your responses. I do not know what to do about all this. Im just another sucker sold a P.O.S by a greedy seller. I thought I could just change out the box, reconnect the line that are here and run some new lines from the heaters to the box and bam all done. The heaters say they use 500w 120v 4.2 amps. The wires in house are 3 lead but are aluminum. Yes the dryer is separate on the main pole with its own line. I won't spend $2000 as some are quoting here. That's just ridiculous. I guess what I want to know is what panel and breakers are sold for a residential 100amp?

It doesn't aways work to palm off problems on somebody else. It is possible you could have the $2000 job done and send the bill to the seller. I suggerst posting to the real estate forum here. If you like the answers you get there, call a lawyer. You may want to see what several people there have to say.