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marcss · May 11, 2007, 02:03 PM

I am installing a Peerless electric stove the plate on it says " Three wire 120/208 volt 60 cycle ac , wattage 8800. I have a GE powermark gold loadcenter with about 10 empty blanks for breakers. The loadcenter is about 75 to 80 feet from the stove location. What size/type wire should I use? What size/type breaker? Assuming its a "double type" (takes up two slots) can the breaker be put in any of the remaining blank spots in the load center or do larger breakers always have to go up-top of the loadcenter? The main breaker in the box is a 200Amp and there is already a 40 Amp "double type" breaker up top (for the other stove in the house. Also is there any problem using a receptacle and plug for this stove or must it be hard wired? Thank you

tkrussell · May 11, 2007, 02:51 PM

If the supply voltage is truly 208 volts, #6 copper 4 wire romex or #6 aluminum 4 wire SER cable can be used with a 50 amp 2 pole circuit breaker.

If the supply volts is 240 volts, the wire size can be reduced to #8 for both cables, and a 2P 40 A CB.

A 2 pole breaker normally can plug in anywhere, as long as each of the two hot legs are used. Normally this is automatic, but using half size breakers require more attention to not plugging the 2 poles onto one hot leg or bus bar in the panel.

Using a flush or surface mounted 4 wire 50 amp outlet and cord is typical. Hard connections are not really allowed, since each appliance needs a means of disconnect at the appliance, and a cord and plug covers this.

Stratmando · May 12, 2007, 10:48 AM

Like tkrussell says, except, I live in Florida Keys, Aluminum has been illegal for 20+ years, check local codes. I would not use aluminum in my house. Some might use 50 Amp3 prong Range Cord and 50 Amp 3 prong Range Recpticle. Code says for Remodel or New construction, must be 4 wire. Where to put the 4th wire? The 2 hots go where 2 hots normally go on Range, then you need to remove strap that connects the neutral and ground at stove. White will go to third terminal, and ground to stove enclosure(Case)
I would pull 2 #6's for hots, #8 for neutral(white) and #10(green) for ground.
The white carries current.
The ground is not supposed to. For years it was common to steal neutral from ground.
Don't know why it took so long to become correct.

jjelectric · Jul 6, 2010, 05:24 AM

"I would pull 2 #6's for hots, #8 for neutral(white) and #10(green) for ground.
The white carries current"

Bare in mind this is if you are pulling through conduit. If the wire will be exposed at all you will want to use AC (Armored Cable) wire. I'm a seasoned professional electrician and we never pull different size circuits in the same conduit. The reason I say AC is because some people will have a mouse problem and they like to chew the insulation off romex and that can you leave you with bare and exposed wires in your attics or basement and even in the walls.

stanfortyman · Jul 6, 2010, 07:46 AM

Originally Posted by jjelectric

Bare in mind this is if you are pulling through conduit. If the wire will be exposed at all you will want to use AC (Armored Cable) wire. I'm a seasoned professional electrician and we never pull different size circuits in the same conduit. The reason I say AC is because some people will have a mouse problem and they like to chew the insulation off of romex and that can you leave you with bare and exposed wires in your attics or basement and even in the walls.

Several comments:

1) If the cable will be exposed you can use AC, NM, or one of several other cables. AC is NOT required, nor used, in most parts of the country.

2) I am also a well seasoned electrician and it is VERY common to pull different size circuits when the wiring method is conduit.
I am curious as to why the poster suggested this is an problem.

3) This thread is over three YEARS old. It is considered poor forum etiquette to add comments to very old threads such as this.