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    danidac7's Avatar
    danidac7 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 6, 2008, 06:34 PM
    How do I Train my new puppy not to bite my cat?
    I just got a new puppy and my cat is about 8 years old. She (my cat) has lived with dogs in the house since she was a kitten but has been living for about 6 months as the only pet because an older dog of mine passed away. Now I have a new puppy and he's proving to be much more of a handful than my previous pups. He's been in my house about 4 days now, and the cat has been hiding out in my room (so I moved her litterbox and food in here but I assume this routine cannot remain constant for her).

    Today I tried carrying her out to the living room where the puppy was napping, just so that she could see him and get close without him biting or jumping at her (I haven't seen him attempt to bite her yet) and naturally she hissed and puffed out her tail and tried to run back to my room and hide behind the TV stand.

    The puppy is 8 weeks old and he's a native american indian dog (which is much like a wolf dog) and he has just begun teething. I want the cat to be able to leave my room without me worrying about the dog accidentally biting her thinking she's playing when it could possibly be hazardous for her.

    I also am afraid to let my cat go outside (she does go outside from time to time but usually not daily) because I do not want her to run outside and then not want to come back in. as you can probably tell I have a strong bond with my cat (shes my first) and I love the puppy and plan to take good care of it, I just know he's very active.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated!:p
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #2

    Jan 6, 2008, 08:08 PM
    Maybe approach it about the same way we do with puppies and our 14 year old Lab. She is now plagued with the fifth one since coming to live with us 4 years ago. The moment you see the puppy focusing on the cat, give it an ''Ut, ut, ut!'' and offer it a chew toy. For some puppies a dozen, or even a 100 times won't be enough. Just don't give up. The solution to a stubborn puppy is an even more stubborn owner. The difference between most dog owners and a professional trainer is not knowledge and technique, but discipline, patience, and consistency. Puppies are so time consuming, most trainers won't touch one less than 4 months old. Of course, at 8 weeks old, they can learn very quickly.
    danidac7's Avatar
    danidac7 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 6, 2008, 08:17 PM
    Oh yes that really helps me. I haven't tried the Ut ut! So ill do that. I didn't want to wait on that question because I'm taking my puppy to training classes pretty soon, and well I can't bring my cat to that to work on it LOL I was needing that advice for around the house. :p
    Wondergirl's Avatar
    Wondergirl Posts: 39,354, Reputation: 5431
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    #4

    Jan 6, 2008, 08:21 PM
    Make sure you give the cat plenty of attention or you will end up with one very unhappy cat! I'll have to think about this as to how to get them properly introduced. Right now, the cat is thinking she's being eased out by that other beast.
    danidac7's Avatar
    danidac7 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 6, 2008, 08:27 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Wondergirl
    Make sure you give the cat plenty of attention or you will end up with one very unhappy cat! I'll have to think about this as to how to get them properly introduced. Right now, the cat is thinking she's being eased out by that other beast.

    No worries there, my cat still acts the same around me, she just doesn't like being near the dog, so she stays in my room, and she still sleeps in my bed, and purrs when I pet her, and plays with her toys.

    She did stay downstairs the first night, but I went and got her, and from then on she keeps to my room, I offer to let her out, but she's still a little iffy about going out there to be near him. She seems to like it in my room, and I'm gradually taking her out to see the dog, then back in my room, eventually I might take her out and close my door, but not now cause I don't want her to find another place to hide that I can't get at, cause I know she's eating and using the litter box right now in my room.

    I just get nervouse sometimes because a dog bite could cause damage to her. She's a little tabby cat.
    froggy7's Avatar
    froggy7 Posts: 1,801, Reputation: 242
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    #6

    Jan 6, 2008, 09:35 PM
    At a minimum, you want to make a cat-safe room. Get a baby gate so that you can block the dog out but the cat can go in and out freely. (I have mine set so that the cats can go under it, but you may have to have them go over the top or get the one with the pet door in it.) Put the cat's food, water, and litter box in there, so they can have access to all of that without having to deal with the pup.

    You may be able to get rid of that set-up eventually. Or, if you are like me, I like knowing that the dog can't get to the cat's food, so I have left mine up.
    bushg's Avatar
    bushg Posts: 3,433, Reputation: 596
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    #7

    Jan 7, 2008, 08:57 AM
    I am not sure if your dog is a hunting type I will assume it is by the name, So my advice is to never let it chase other creatures, birds, squirrels, rabbits... etc.

    Get the dog neutered. I personally would wait until he is 6 months old. I know a few vets that say a year old and I have even hear of 2. I can't see what good would come out of waiting until they are 1,2.

    If the cat gives the puppy a few slaps in the next few weeks the dog may see the cat as the boss over it. But down't let the slaps get out of hand. Make sure they both know they must obey you.

    I would not keep them separated as long as I was in the room... I would move a sofa.. or a chair out from the wall give the cat enough room to slip behind it but not enough for the puppy to get back there. They will watch each other this way.. but from a safe distance.

    Are you going to let them play together. My take is no not if this is a dog that has high hunting/prey instincts. Each time he went toward the cat he would be corrected... pretty soon he will get the hint that the kitty is off limits. But this will have to be reinforced time and time again.
    The only thing he would be allowed to chase is a balls, rubber toys maybe toys made from stiff cloth... etc. He would never be bought stuffed animals, fuzzy or furry toys esp. the ones with the squeaks in them. I would not even allow fuzzy tennis balls.

    Let the cat eat in the same room as the dog. Give the cat its food first and let the cat beginning eating first. Even if you have to put the puppy on a leash make him wait at least a few minutes before he is allowed to have his food bowl. Some trainers may recommend you to let the cat complete his meal before allowing the dog to eat. My trainer let my dog eat after the cat was served and the dog was in a down position and settled. During meal time if he tries to get into the cats bowl correct him.
    By no means am I a professional trainer. Some of my suggestions come from a trainer that I hired with a cat & dog situation, however the dog was not a puppy but an adult. Good Luck
    danidac7's Avatar
    danidac7 Posts: 12, Reputation: 1
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    #8

    Jan 7, 2008, 05:01 PM
    That's awsome! They have trainers for cat and dog situations? Wow that sounds cool. Thanks ill try to take away the squeaker toys. One thing I know that the breeders of this dog say is that they do get along with other household pets, cats was the first one the list. So I'm not sure if the squeaker will be bad, we give him it so that we hear him at night and know he's there. But ill take it away if its bad.
    bushg's Avatar
    bushg Posts: 3,433, Reputation: 596
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    #9

    Jan 7, 2008, 05:26 PM
    Dandi... get him a collar with a small bell on it. *edit*
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #10

    Jan 7, 2008, 07:38 PM
    I too have neglected one of the most important issues that nobody else has mentioned, leadership. It is also an issue many ''professional'' trainers neglect and is often neglected in obedience classes. I touch on it on my sticky, but only briefly. I looked back and don't seem to have made this point in your other questions either. The key to most behavior problems is approaching things using the dog's natural instincts. Dogs see all the people and dogs in the household as a pack with each having their own rank in the pack and a top dog. Life is much easier if the 2 legged pack members outrank the 4 legged ones. You can learn to play the role of top dog by reading some books or going to a good obedience class. A good obedience class or book is about you being top dog, not about rewarding standard commands with a treat. Start at Raising Your Dog with the Monks of New Skete For more on being top dog, see Establishing and Keeping Alpha Position, Letting your dog know you are the boss

    These are good with younger dogs: ''Elevation for small puppies: Sit on the floor and gently put your hands around your pup's middle, below his front legs, and lift him up. He is facing you. Hold him for 15 seconds. Repeat until he no longer struggles. If he is past 10-12 weeks, lift his front feet off the ground, but don't pick him up.

    Cradling for small puppies: Hold your puppy gently on his back, as you would cradle a small baby. If he struggles, hold him firmly until he quiets for 10-15 seconds. With larger pups, you can do this as your sit on the floor, with your pup between your legs.

    Quiet lying down: Place your pup on the floor on his side, with all 4 legs pointing away from you. Use your hands on his neck/shoulder area and middle, to hold him in this position. When he is quiet, praise him. Lengthen the time that you keep him quietly in this position. When he accepts this position well, handle his paws and muzzle, while keeping him quiet.''

    The quotes mean this isn't my original work. It is copied from my Puppy Raising Manual. I have long used these or minor variations of them, and they are very effective. You may want to give him a belly rub while he is on his back too. Helps bonding. There is a big difference between him rolling over and demanding a belly rub, and you choosing a time to roll him over and rub his belly. The latter cements your place as pack leader.

    If the pack leader says sit when you want to chase the cat, you sit. As for the squeaky toys, if you read through the sticky, you would see they aren't suitable for many dogs, cat or no cat. While your dog is much too young to go to obedience class now, you can start working out of a book. There is a list in the sticky too.

    Do you have any kids? With somebody the right age in the family, 4-H dog training is a great idea. In my area, clubs form soon after the first of the year. Even many urban areas have 4-H. For info look in your phone book under government listings
    For extension or cooperative extension offices. Ask specifically about a dog or canine club.
    bushg's Avatar
    bushg Posts: 3,433, Reputation: 596
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    #11

    Jan 7, 2008, 07:49 PM
    Dandi.. I did not have time earlier to say these things,but if you were told by the breeder that these dogs are OK with cats go by what they said.

    The dog that I had was a rescued dog that had a bad start in life he was mixed with terrier and bird dog. Very high prey driven. He was somewhere between 4- 6 months old and thrown out of a car, and I picked him up. Plus he was the first dog I ever owned or was in charge of.
    Your post brought back memories for me and with the name breed... I just figured he was a hunting dog. That is where my advice stems from. The cat that I had was also older like yours and was not into puppy fun.
    Labman may have hit on something that he may only need leadership and everything will be fine.
    So, don't let my bad experience or lack of experience with my first dog scare you. Just watch your puppy and work with him in these weeks to come.
    labman's Avatar
    labman Posts: 10,580, Reputation: 551
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    #12

    Jan 7, 2008, 08:26 PM
    You shouldn't generalize too much from one person and one dog, but froggy has done well with a Greyhound and a cat. My S&S Dog Book, that I don't brag on, states that Greyhounds are implacable enemies of cats. I am not sure how well researched that statement is. Many opinions aren't.
    froggy7's Avatar
    froggy7 Posts: 1,801, Reputation: 242
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    #13

    Jan 7, 2008, 09:42 PM
    While I appreciate labman's opinions, greyhounds are a special case. Surprisingly, Trink doesn't have that strong of a prey drive, although she goes crazy for lures and loves to run! Other greyhounds will kill a cat as quickly as they can catch it. I had the advantage of starting with an adult of a fairly well-known temperament, who had been tested with cats. Quite honestly, if I was starting with a puppy, I'd be looking at breeds that I knew were generally good with cats, and hope that my puppy read his breed manual! But there is a reason that I generally go for teen-age/adult animals. I don't want to guess what they are going to be like when they grow up.
    899874xx's Avatar
    899874xx Posts: 14, Reputation: 1
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    #14

    Feb 14, 2010, 11:53 AM

    If you didn't give your new puppy it's shots yet other pets will try to bite your puppy.I got a puppy,and he hasn't gotten his shots yet,so other pets aren't playing well with him.So if you didn't give your puppy its shots yet,keep it away from other pets until your puppy gets its shots. Also congrats about your puppy!
    Fr_Chuck's Avatar
    Fr_Chuck Posts: 81,301, Reputation: 7692
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    #15

    Feb 14, 2010, 12:14 PM

    Let me see two year old thread, can't new posters find a new thread to answer.

    Closed

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