I am a new beagle owner whose name is molly and is 10 weeks old. The breeder from which i purchased Molly did not housetrain her. I did some research and i hear that beagles are hard to housetrain. Well im stressed out because here i am with this cute puppy bad see pees and poohs everywhere....im doing everything i can to provide her with good training but i am losing somewhere.....for one she can not sleep anywhere but on my bed next to me and she snores sooooo loud....my wife hates it because she wakes up in the middle of the night and tries to play with our other dog who is sleeping also with us....but anyway back to the story...she pees and poohs all in the bedroom....we have tile so i dont mind the pee but her poop is very very smelly.....just recently i put her in a kennel to train her this way....she will not pee in there i will give her that...but she poops in there!!!!!!!!!!!.....i will take out of the kennel and bring her outside she pees and i praise her up and down....but 10 min after coming she poops somwhere....i need help on what to do....im thinking of getting rid of her but i really dont want to....i just need advice.....


THANK YOU

labman

I have heard that Beagles are hard to train too. Last experience I had with them was over 40 years ago when I was way lower on the learning curve. The racks in the crate I mention below are much more effective on urine than stools. I have wondered about, but never used wood shavings. One more thing, when you take her out before bed time, make her walk around. Exercise stimulates bowel movements. I think they are all sudden accidents at that age. Walk her around until it happens.

The hard surfaced floor does make it easier. We ripped out the carpet in the family room and put an industrial strength urethane on the hardwood floor 9 puppies ago.

At bed time, with a new puppy, I have found lying down in front
of the crate like you were going to sleep and speaking softly to it, or
singing, until it settles down and goes to sleep works very well. Follow the
pattern, a period of active play, outside to eliminate, and then into the
crate.


Much of housebreaking is not training the puppy, but making it easier for your
puppy, you, and your carpet while its body to catches up to its instincts. At
around 8 weeks when the puppy goes to its new home, the time from when it
realizes it has to go, and when it can't wait any longer is a matter of
seconds. Only time will fix that. You can hardly be expected to be attentive
enough to avoid all accidents There is no sense punishing the puppy for your
inattention. It is not fair to punish you either, but you still have to clean
it up if you didn't have the puppy outside in time.

Housebreaking starts before you get home with the new puppy. If you don't have
a crate, buy one. I prefer the more enclosed, den like plastic ones. Skip the
bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking
hazards. A wire rack in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of
accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but a piece of closely
spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. If you
already have a metal crate, covering it may help. Just make sure you use
something the puppy can't pull in and chew. Dogs that start out in crates as
little puppies, accept them very well. Never leave an unattended puppy loose
in the house. If nobody can watch it, put it in the crate. I suggest letting
the dog have its crate all its life.

Choose a command and spot you want it to use. The less accessible to strays,
the less chance of serious disease. If it is a female, choosing a
non grassy spot will avoid brown spots later. When you bring it home, take it
to the spot and give it the command in a firm, but friendly voice. Keep
repeating the command and let the puppy sniff around. If it does anything,
praise it. Really let it know what a good dog it is and how much you love it,
and maybe a treat. Note, being out there not only means you can praise it,
but it also keeps it from being snatched by a hawk. If it doesn't go, take it
inside and give it a drink and any meals scheduled. A young puppy will need to
go out immediately afterward. Go to the spot and follow the above routine.
Praising it if it goes is extremely important. If it doesn't go, take it back
inside and put it in its crate and try again soon. Do not let it loose in the
house until it does go.

At first it is your responsibility to know and take the puppy out when it
needs to go. It needs to go out the first thing in the morning, after eating,
drinking, and sleeping. If it quits playing, and starts running around
sniffing, it is looking for a place to go. Take it out quickly. You will just
have to be what I call puppy broke until it is a little older.

By the time most dogs are about 3 months old, they have figured out that if
they go to the door and stand, you will let them out. The praise slowly shifts
to going to the door. Some people hang a bell there for the dog to paw. If
your dog doesn't figure this out, try praising it and putting it out if it
even gets near the door. A stern "Bad dog!" is all the punishment that is
effective, and only when you catch it in the act and are sure you didn't miss
it going to the door. Clean up accidents promptly. I mostly keep the little
puppies out of the carpeted rooms. Still I need the can of carpet foam
sometimes. First blot up all the urine you can with a dry towel. Keep moving
it and stepping on it until a fresh area stays dry. A couple big putty knives
work well on bowel movements. Just slide one under it while holding it with
the other. This gets it up with a minimum of pushing it down into the carpet.
This works with even relatively soft ones, vomit, dirt from over turned house
plants, or anything else from solids to thick liquids. Finish up with a good
shot of carpet foam. Note, do not let the puppy lick up the carpet foam.
Once the dog is reliably housebroken, your carpet may need a good steam cleaning.