I need help!!
I have this computer that I have had for a long time now that worked perfectly until now I unplugged the computer ( relocating it to a different room) and when I got to the new room it wasn't working anymore I would press the power button and nothing but then I realized that there is a green flashing light on my power supply that keeps on flashing so I took it to my school to ask a friend to look at it I left it there for a while. Recently I wanted to try to see what was going on with it so a friend of mine opened the computer looked around, cleaned up a little bit and put the power cord to the computer and the flashing light was on but not flashing anymore and the computer turned on. Here is the weird part I took it back home and plug it in again and it had the same problem as before so I have no idea what's going on now. If someone knows how to fix this problem it would mean a lot to me

Either the powersupply is faulty from a loose connection or the power outlets in the new room cannot handle the extra load try temporaly moving it back to the previous room and if it works than that was the problem

Perhaps you could ask your handy friend to replace the wall socket. Sometimes old sockets can go bad inside and the contacts may become so dirty or corroded that they hinder the flow of current.

Much more likely to be the actual power supply, or a fault connection to the motherboard. I've experienced this problem a number of times, and it's more often than not, the power supply. Try re-seating all the cables (if you are comfortable with IT stuff). If still nothing, it might be your power supply.

Power Supply is bad. Probably Electrolytic Capacitors breaking down.
(These 'Caps' are used as Filters for the incoming AC electricity, { Input Stage}, and outgoing DC electricity. {Output Stage )

Your friend got the Power Supply to boot one more time. It has now gone on to the 'Power Supply graveyard' now. Replace it.

{NO, I Do Not recommend opening a Power Supply, and trying to repair it.
The Electrolytic Capacitors inside are designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.
After being removed from power, these 'Caps' can hold a charge for weeks, months, sometimes over a year.

The 'Caps' have to be P-R-O-P-E-R-L-Y discharged, before the unit is worked on.

Much better to use deductive reasoning, and just replace the Power Supply }

For additional questions, or comments please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Don't listen to any of these people. All you have to do is leave it pluged in and the power suply will reset itself eventually. Even when the computer is off it still has power to it. So whenever you enplug it from the wall u can set off the fuse inside the power suply. Just leave it pluged in and it will eventually stop blinking. Sometimes you should turn he computer on its side and plug it in till the light stops blinking. It makes it easier for the computer to engage its built in fuse. Power supplys usually last longer than most other components in the computer, so if you are still using your origanil hard drive than most likely your power supply is fine.

Power Supply's are an SMPS used for personal desktop computers.

Switched-Mode Power Supply,

Switched-mode power supply - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The expensive gamer Power Supply's may have a circuit breaker in them, and will reset, but the generic Power Supply's used in pre-built computers have no such option, kjaks1.

The SMPS' used now are ATX models.
Hasn't been a fuse type that I remember, since the old AT style of Power Supply's, and very FEW of them.

Capucho27, if you do not own a multimeter suggest you purchase one.
Average cost is around $8 to $12, and available in a multitude of stores.
An auto parts store is but one example. Analog or digital is fine.

Test the Power Supply.
There are 3 main voltages that you will be testing for;
A) 3.3 Volts (DC)
B) 5 Volts (DC)
C) 12 Volts (DC)

Your Power Supply converts your house, or business AC power into DC power.
Depending on what country you are in your AC power may be 100, or 120, or 220 Volts AC.
This is converted into the low DC voltages listed above.

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.

1) Orange insulated wires carry 3.3 Volts
2) Red wires carry 5 Volts
3) Yellow wires carry 12 Volts.
(All are DC Voltage)

4) ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

A) Computer on a table, computer OFF, computer case open, computer plugged into power. TOUCH the metal frame (Unpainted) of the open computer case, to relieve your body of Static.

B) Look for an unused 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable.
(Misnomered as Molex power cable. I also refer to it as 'Standard', because there is a 4-pin Small Peripheral power cable. Used to be used for Floppy Drives. Is mostly used now for Card Readers),

All about the various PC power supply cables and connectors

Untangle the cable, ease it to the outside of the case.
Try to position it so you can easily grab it again.

Multimeter:
Attach the red Positive probe lead to the + socket hole in the multimeter.
Attach the black Negative probe lead to the - socket hole.

Turn the Function knob to DC Voltage.
If there are just symbols, set it to the - dotted line over a solid line symbol.
If there is more than one DC Voltage scale, set the Function knob to the 0 to 50 Volt scale.
(0-50)

Turn the computer on.
Hold the 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable's connector, in one hand.
Also use the fingers of that hand, to hold the red Positive probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with the Red wire.

Use the other hand to insert the tip of the Negative probe lead, into ANY of the two socket holes that have a Black wire.
You should be reading 5 Volts (DC), or VERY close.

Remove the probe leads.
Place the Positive probe lead tip into the socket hole of the Yellow wire.
Negative probe lead to a Black wire again.
You should be reading 12 Volts, or VERY close to it.

If you get a full 5 Volt, and 12 Volt reading, come back and post.
I will then guide you in testing the 3.3 Volt power rail.

Older Processor's used the 5 Volt power rail.
Now Processors have approached closer to saving power, by using less power, and the 3.3 Volt power rail is used.
(No Processor operating, no computer)

Using the above method will PROVE the Power Supply is T-O-A-S-T.
Then you can go on to replace it, and have your computer back again.

What is the computer manufacturer name, and Model Number? (For HP it is Product Number. P/N in the white Service Tag )

So how long does it take to recharge after you unplug it 20 minutes or so>? I usually unplug it before a storm that's the only time until I get me another surge protector I hope your right... I was freaking out

Quote:

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Originally Posted by maria26th

so how long does it take to recharge after u unplug it 20 mins or so>? i usually unplug it before a storm thats the only time until i get me another surge protector i hope your right...... i was freaking out

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Message for
kjaks1 thanks

You can lead a horse to water; doesn't mean you can make it drink, however.

[ Somewhere a dog howls in the distance, and crickets chirp ]

(Unless you have a surge protector that costs around $360 or more, you just have a piece of junk. A lightning bolt can reach 1,000,000 volts, or MORE. A Brownout will fry your PSU, also.
So will a mistake by the utility power company, when installing a new pole transformer, or bringing power back after repairing utility power line construction )

{Guess what? The utility company is NOT responsible for damage to homeowners equipment }