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    dkh0331's Avatar
    dkh0331 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 17, 2007, 01:31 PM
    Load Bearing wall Q
    What size header will I need to replace a wall that is on the second floor with one floor above, span is 81"?

    TIA
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #2

    Jan 17, 2007, 01:51 PM
    I'd go a 5x10 laminated - or two 2x10s with a piece of plywood between.

    Hang tight, though, before you rush off and get one. There are several good home remodelers that hang out here. I'd definitely recommend that you get a 2nd opinion over mine.
    dkh0331's Avatar
    dkh0331 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 17, 2007, 02:03 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by RickJ
    I'd go a 5x10 laminated - or two 2x10s with a piece of plywood between.

    Hang tight, though, before you rush off and get one. There are several good home remodelers that hang out here. I'd definately recommend that you get a 2nd opinion over mine.
    I was thinking 2X10 or 12. And I am hanging tight. :)
    dkh0331's Avatar
    dkh0331 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #4

    Jan 17, 2007, 02:25 PM
    A Pic is worth a 1,000 words



    I am running the header from 1 to 2 - 81". 1 is a double 2x4. My plan is to cut 1 of the 2x4's for the header. Then attach a 2x4 to #2, where the header will end. All of the 2x4's in between will be cut and become cripples on the header. Hope this makes sense.

    David
    RickJ's Avatar
    RickJ Posts: 7,762, Reputation: 864
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    #5

    Jan 17, 2007, 03:59 PM
    One thing I know for sure. For a load bearing wall, one 2-by will NOT suffice. You do know that you'll need to build a 2nd wall to support the ceiling while you tear out the studs and prepare for the header, right?

    In short, yes, you can have the header resting on just one of the two 2-bys in "1" and for "2" you can rest the header on it, too - BUT you need to have another 2x4 up against it (#2) AND add a few cross braces that go from "2" to the right.

    haha, now I have the same statement. Hope that makes sense :)
    dkh0331's Avatar
    dkh0331 Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Jan 18, 2007, 03:39 AM
    All makes sense. And yes, I did know the header would need to be doubled up, although did not know about the plywood sandwiched in between.

    A basic concept drawing, certainly not to scale would look like this - ?



    I still have more lath & plaster to tear out this weekend so this is a still couple weeks down the road.
    jstooie's Avatar
    jstooie Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 25, 2008, 04:00 PM
    One thing that wasn't addressed was the load points. You are taking a load that is spread out over a wall and placing it on two points, this can cause you problems on the first floor if there is not an ability to carry it down to the ground. Another question that I have, although old houses(my guess is yours was built in the early 20's?) never used headers if only because the old wood was considerably stronger than new growth wood and the wood lathe actually assists in the load carrying ability, you never actually indicated if it was actually a load bearing wall.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #8

    Jan 27, 2008, 10:15 AM
    Your post is titled "Load bearing Wall Q". Do you know that it is indeed a load bearing wall. Just because there is a floor above dosen't necessary make it a bearing wall. Which way do the flooring joist above run.

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