I am getting ready to attempt this for first time with a Kohler/Sterling unit. It does not mention the use of a mud base. Is this needed? Any earlier post here talks about using a rubber material to prevent squeaks.

Is green board the type of material to finish the top areas. The instructions have drywall with finish board?? I expect that some trim strips will be needed to match thickness of lip of shower walls.

Thanks,

Brian

Hi Brian, Good brand. Is this a one piece half way up pan and three interlocking upper side walls? Install ceiling green board and then the remaining wall sections over lips of top stall sections. The lip is not concern for vertical wall alignment to stall top unless it is over 1/8 inch thick. The lips get screwed in to the stud framing and blocking between the studs at the mid bottom section and also at the top lip sections. Do not nail. When joining sections use a silicone rubber bath tub sealer for the interface when bolting together. (if this is that type)

Prior to doing all this, some hole cutting is needed for the center control valve only. The diverter and supply pipes should be fit in place first to determine the upper half hole cutting for needed clearance. Mount the shower head gooseneck wing tee with short temporary half inch nipple stubbed out above the top molded section at least the height for the beauty ring (escutcheon) diameter for clearance.
A solid sand mortar support under the base on the subfloor is the best way to set the stall with a compression sealed waste drain fitting. There are a couple of methods, so follow the manufacturer's recommended instructions. If the base underside is accessible between the subfloor, use temporary 2x4 supports before screwing the bottom half in place. It can be insulation filler foamed as another way of doing the final securing support. The cement on a slab is my preference for a real solid feel without oilcanning.
nm