I've read a few Q & A about struvite crystals and just about every informational website...but need some specific to my situation info.
My male cat has always seemed to have litter box issues. About a month ago I thought he was severly constipated...took him to the vet. Turns out his baldder was full...had to do the X-ray/urinalysis/ anesthesia/remove crystals then IV/ catheter thing for three days. I took him home. It took hm about a week to feel better. I had him on Purina UR Wet food. (Prescription)...But on the 13th day, I noticed him straining to urinate. Took him back to the vet, who had to repeat the entire process. Kept him for 4 days to get all the crstals to pass. (IV to catheter) Vet said he saw no crystals after day one. But kept him on IV / catheter to be sure. Anyway, he's been home now for 2 days, and is straining again. He is so stressed out and so am I...I need a cure. At this point anything, I'm sad to see him so unlike himself, not playing or wanting to eat like he used to. Also, the vet told me about the surgury, but at this point I'm almost at $1000 in vet bills...plus it sounds a little inhumane. Anyway, I now have been feeding him (along with the above) Purina UR - ST/OX dry. AND giving him a IV injection into his back to keep him hydrated (Once a day.) I read other posts you guys put up...about some SD??? that works to use first 30 days...or the carpone and UT strength or whatever from the natural store...and hairball formula??? for crystals??? Any suggestions on these?

I just want a resolution that will help long term. Does any food really work, anything??? Has anybody had reoccurring crystals and found something that works???
Sorry for writing a book... PLease help. THANKS!!!

doggie_poopie

Please look into natural foods, healing and chinese medicine. Our vet puts every cat with URI issues on something called Eight Righteous. Raw diet can make a huge improvement. Go to Shirley's wellness cafe for for information. At this point traditional medicine has failed so what do you have do lose? Your cat is miserable and all this inflammation of the bladder can cause worse more severe issues long term.

jitterbug

Hey Doggie Poopie.
Thanks so much for your help. I went to Shirley's wellness cafe. I didn't see anything about Eight Righteous???. However, I did read about the raw/natural diets with supplements. Some of it was kind of hard to understand...But one thing it said was to give vitamin C. I asked the vet yesterday. He said not to give it to him. (It can make him too acidic, and cure these crystals and cause the other crystals) But I gave it to him anyway, in a very small dose. He is still straining to go, but he IS going much more than before. (Thanks GOD and Doggie Poopie!)
Does anybody else have any opinions about carpone???, or specifics at the natural food store. Thnx.

doggie_poopie

Of course you should always defer back to your own veterinarian, so if they say no Vit. C I wouldn't.
The eight righteous is a Chinese herbal only a vet practicing Traditional Chinese Veterinary Medicine would use. Sorry I was more clear on that.
Depending on why your cat has Crystals will depend on which way you will want the PH level to go. I do know feeding the best diet does prevent many issues brought on by commercial diets. This time of year we have lots of cats with this problem. Matter of fact gave fluids to a cat today for the owner and sent discharged another after staying over night in hospital. It is called Enterance of Wind.

Also, there is now studies that show a link between over vaccinating for the Distemper and CRF and/or other kidney problems.

I would encourage you to follow your vets recommendations, and get your cat on a better diet. Then read, read, read! Here's another website for you to ponder. http://www.holisticat.com/uti_arch1.html

Also just for giggles here is the TCVM website http://www.tcvmherbal.com/ You can find the closest TCVM vet to you also on it.

doggie_poopie

Pet Food Shopping Checklist

The most reputable manufacturers of “superpremium” and “natural” foods agree with holistic veterinarians and other experts that the very best diet for your animal companion is one that you make yourself. A homemade diet, carefully balanced nutritionally and using organic foods, is closest to what Mother Nature intended. However, many of us do not have the time or energy to do home cooking, especially for multiple animals or large dogs.

For those of us who rely, partially or entirely, on commercial foods for our animals, API has prepared a checklist to use in selecting a good-quality diet.

Our extensive research has revealed that the pet food industry is extremely secretive. Manufacturers will not disclose very much information about the sources of ingredients, how they are processed, their quality control standards, or, in some cases, even where the food is made. Because the forty-odd manufacturers we contacted failed to provide us with accurate information, this API checklist gives you, the consumer, the best chance of selecting the best foods among the choices available.

* When selecting a commercial food for your animal companion, make sure the label has an “AAFCO guarantee,” preferably one that references “feeding tests” or “feeding protocols” rather than Nutrient Profiles.
* Never buy a food containing “by-product meal” or “meat and bone meal.” These rendered products are the most inexpensive sources of animal protein. The contents and quality of these meals can vary tremendously from batch to batch, and are not a reliable source of nutrition for your animal.
* In general, avoid foods that rely on by-products as the sole source of animal protein. By-products consist of organs and parts either not desired, or condemned, for human consumption. An occasional can of by-product-based food may be okay, since, in the wild, carnivores do consume the whole prey including the organs, but these foods are not acceptable as a steady diet.
* Look for a named meat or meal (“lamb” or “chicken meal,” for example, instead of the generic term “meat”) as the first ingredient.
* Avoid generic or store brands. These may be repackaged rejects from the big manufacturers, and generally contain cheaper — and consequently poorer quality — ingredients.
* Unless specifically recommended by your veterinarian, avoid “light,” “senior,” “special formula,” or “hairball formula” foods. These foods may contain acidifying agents, excessive fiber, or inadequate fats that can result in skin, coat and other problems.
* In general, select brands promoted to be “natural.” While they are not perfect, they may be better than most. Several brands are now preserved with Vitamins C and E instead of chemical preservatives (such as BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin and propyl gallate). While synthetic preservatives may still be present, the amounts will be less.
* Check the expiration date to ensure freshness.
* When you open a bag of dry food, give it a sniff — if there is any rancid odor at all, return it immediately for an exchange or refund.
* Store dry pet food in a sealed non-porous container (a large popcorn tin is ideal) in a cool, dry place. Canned food is best removed from the can and refrigerated in a glass or ceramic container.

Guidelines for Feeding Your Animal Companion

* Change brands or flavors of dry food every three to four months to avoid deficiencies or excesses of ingredients which may be problematic for your animal.
* When changing dry foods, mix 1/4 of the new food with 3/4 of the old food, and increase the new food a little each day. Some finicky animals may need a more gradual change over two or more weeks. Never let a cat skip more than one or two meals; return to the old food if necessary.
* With any new food or supplement, watch for subtle changes in your dog’s skin and coat, appetite, energy level, mood, itchiness, discharges or odors, body weight, and the size and consistency of stool. If negative changes occur, try a different food. If the change persists, consult your veterinarian.
* If your animal companion is on a prescription diet, check with your veterinarian periodically (at least every 6 months) to make sure the diet is still correct. Many conditions resolve over time, and a diet that was needed for a younger animal may be inappropriate when she is older.
* It is usually preferable to feed one or two meals per day rather than leaving food out all the time. However, some medical conditions require more frequent feeding. Check with your veterinarian about recommendations for your animals.
* Feed some canned food, which generally contains more animal protein and less grain than dry foods. Plain dry food does not clean the teeth and is not an essential for either cats or dogs. Cats in particular need at least 50% of their diet in the form of wet food to reduce the workload on the kidneys and keep the urine dilute. Cats with a history of bladder or kidney disease should not be fed any dry food.
* Supplement all commercial pet foods with other foods, such as organic meats and steamed, pureed or finely grated vegetables (most cannot be very well digested by carnivores raw). Dogs may be supplemented with tofu and cooked grains; however, cats should receive minimal carbohydrates in the diet. (Plant products tend to raise urine pH and may predispose cats to urinary tract disease.) If you are supplementing more than 15-20% of the diet, however, you will need to consult one of the many available books or websites for information on balancing vitamins, minerals and other nutrients.
* Other helpful supplements that are especially important when feeding commercial food include probiotics such as acidophilus, digestive enzymes, and the antioxidant vitamins E (alpha tocopherol) and C (either Ester C, calcium ascorbate, or sodium ascorbate).
* Consider making at least some of your animal’s food at home. This lets you control the quality of the ingredients. There are many excellent books, articles, and websites available for more detailed guidelines on ingredients, proportions, and preparations. Even one or two home-made meals a week will be a significant improvement over feeding solely commercial pet foods.

Your veterinarian only sees your companion once a year. Since you are with her every day, it is essential that you monitor her general health and how she is responding to the food she’s eating. Changes in appetite, coat quality, weight, stool, urine, or water consumption may signal a problem with the food, or a more serious medical problem. Report these or any other unusual changes or behaviors to your veterinarian.

CobaltBlue

I have four year old male that blocked twice three years ago and just again a few days ago. The first time was during the San Diego fires so no vets were open and he had to go to the pet ER. That one cost $2000. then two weeks later he blocked again on the food that was supposed to prevent the crystals. That time he went to the vet - chi ching $750. The most recent bout was down to $400. I love my cat so I will pay whatever it takes but I also love him enough to want to prevent this, so read on.

After the second bout i stopped with ALL dry food. It's like gruel for male cats suseptible to blocking. No problem for three years. I also (IMPORTANT) sprinkled about a third of a capsule of dandelion root powder in his food and he has been fine.

A couple of weeks ago I switched him to a food called TIKI and this recent blockage happened. The ash content was more than twice as high as what i was giving him before and I hadn't given him dandelion root powder for months, so I'm suspecting this did it.

No more Tiki and back to the dandelion. Try this. The dandelion root was recommended by a seasoned vet too, btw. DEFINITELY CUT OUT ALL DRY FOOD (forever!) it's crap for cats that plug easily.

heathervettechCa

UNfortunately if your cat does not get better with diet changes, the only other long term option is called a P.U. Surgery. Basically his urethra is too small and the solution is to make it so he is like a female with a larger opening, yes, at first, it is painful and yes they need pain medication, but it is more painful and more costly for him to go through frequent bouts of FUTD and being bloked, if they get blocked for long enough, they can go into renal failure. Check with your veterinarian to see if they feel that this is a necessary option, I have seen a lot of success with this surgery. Also, keep in mind, the urinary PH also has a lot to do with his own natural body chemistry, and sometimes, diet just doesn't do the trick.
hope this helps.
H

kittycrazy

First off, STOP THE DRY FOOD! If you really knew what was in it you'd vomit! Commercial dry AND canned foods for our pets are so nutritionally deficit that it is inhumae to feed it to them for OUR convenience! And the vets who keep pushing these commercial foods, dry or canned are just now coming around! 30 years ago cats were healthier because they hunted, meaning they ate raw food instinctually for thier own nutrition. Now that cats are indoors they don't hunt. Look up feline raw diets in the internet or visit Flying Basset website for ALOT more info. Pat McKay has been very helpful.
I thought using Innova Evo (supposed to be the best thing next to raw-but it's not!) would help. My kitty's urine is too alkaline. I am swithcing to a raw diet (slowly introducing it toall 5 of my cats) along with the supplements. I had a cat for 18 years who suffered thru several surgeries for crystals and blockages and I spent thousands of dollars, but we didn't have the internet then, now we do and knowledge is power! The vet is NOT always right! Until all the supplements come in that I've ordered I've put my kitty on Carpon, it can't hurt him and may help him until I can get the raw diet thing figured out. Increasing water intake helps but that's because the dry food swells in the stomach and dehydrates the cat! I have to fountains for my cats, but just increasing water intake aloen will not eliminate crystals.

lkanaday

Please look at these links:
~ WELCOME TO RAW FED CATS ~
RawFed.com Home Page
rawcat : Raw Cat

heathervettechCa

Diet change and if worst case ... P/U surgery if he is getting blocked