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    Semperfi30's Avatar
    Semperfi30 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Mar 23, 2010, 09:47 AM
    What engines can be placed into a 2002 Toyota Camry LE (ACV30)
    What engines will fit or go with a 2002 Toyota Camry LE. My engine just died a couple days ago and me and my Father are looking for a replacement engine. He says he found one from a '97 Camry but I told him it probably wouldn't work since they are more than likely to be two completely different engines etc. If you need more specific information just ask, I have access to the VIN and other information if needed.

    Any help is greatly appreciated

    Best regards,

    Semperfi30
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Mar 23, 2010, 09:52 AM

    My advice is to only go with the same engine that came in the car. Otherwise, ECM, wiring harness, and other problems will overwhelm you. Many on this site have found this out the hard way.
    Semperfi30's Avatar
    Semperfi30 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Mar 23, 2010, 09:56 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    My advice is to only go with the exact same engine that came in the car. Otherwise, ECM, wiring harness, and other problems will overwhelm you. Many on this site have found this out the hard way.
    So then I'm going to assume that Wikipedia is correct in that a "2.4 L 2AZ-FE I4" would work with my car considering that's what pops up when I put the VIN in on the internet. When he took it to the shop the mechanics told us to look for a V-4 engine but I read up on the internet and the 2002 model isn't even made with a V-4 it's made with an L4/I4. Are these the same things?
    kitch428's Avatar
    kitch428 Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 152
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    #4

    Mar 23, 2010, 10:03 AM

    2AZ-FE is the only choice you have
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #5

    Mar 23, 2010, 10:07 AM

    Have you considered fixing or rebuilding what you have? That engine should last 300,000+ miles.

    Expand on how the engine just died.
    Semperfi30's Avatar
    Semperfi30 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Mar 23, 2010, 10:47 AM

    One week the engine light came on, I put a quart of oil in, another week went by, light came on again, put another quart of oil in, then a couple days go by, that light comes on again, plus the engine light, now the engine is making weird noises, my father drives it to work to a mechanic shop 45 minutes away, they look at it and the rods in the engine were banging against the engine wall, very loud, basically telling us the engine was too far gone.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #7

    Mar 23, 2010, 10:56 AM

    On your next engine, only use full-synthetic engine oil--change oil and filter every 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. That should ensure your engine goes the distance. These links should help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2162069

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post2059400

    Likewise, use full-sythetic ATF to ensure long and smooth transmission life.
    kitch428's Avatar
    kitch428 Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 152
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    #8

    Mar 23, 2010, 03:46 PM

    This could have been the start of your problems.
    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...rs-423928.html
    Semperfi30's Avatar
    Semperfi30 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Mar 23, 2010, 06:55 PM

    I would like to make a correction, I didn't mean to say the engine light I meant to say the oil lamp light with drops of oil, came on twice in two weeks, after the second week the engine light came on. My apologies :/
    kitch428's Avatar
    kitch428 Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 152
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    #10

    Mar 23, 2010, 07:59 PM

    No apologies needed. The proof is in the puddin'. What you have described is kind of universal language to us car guys.
    Oil is to an engine as blood is to a human. Once you starve of it, it's done.
    On the plus side, there are so many cars like yours out there for parts, that finding a replacement (complete motor) will be very easy.
    I've done several just like yours and it's not labor intensive at all.
    It's a car well worth keeping. I wish you all the luck getting it back on the road.
    Semperfi30's Avatar
    Semperfi30 Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Mar 23, 2010, 08:10 PM

    So searching for a WHOLE engine to replace the current one shouldn't be my goal? I should be trying to see if I can replace damaged parts inside the engine? I've looked all over the internet and I can't find a single seller that has the same engine, all of them go to 2001 engines but then skip a couple years and go to 2006 etc. Any recommendations on where I could look internet wise? We are already putting together some local connections but I'm not sure they are the Same model and engine as the one that is required to be put into my vehicle.
    kitch428's Avatar
    kitch428 Posts: 1,440, Reputation: 152
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    #12

    Mar 23, 2010, 08:29 PM

    It would be more cost effective to replace the complete engine. IF... doing it part by part, and sending it to a machine shop for this and that, it WILL out weigh the cost of just replacing it.
    Here, check this out and get a quote online. Top mechanics have trusted these engines for years that I know of.
    JASPER Engines & Transmissions: Remanufactured engine: diesel, marine, import
    TiJayO's Avatar
    TiJayO Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
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    #13

    Jul 27, 2013, 12:28 PM
    That engine was a mistake from Toyota. One of their few. The problem is most likely a blown head gasket between volunteer cylinder 2 and 3 caused by a defect if the block(if problem is around 120k miles). Repair would almost certainly require a few heli coils into the block before putting the head back on. That would only fix the problem about 50% of the time. I am currently looking to find whether 2tr-fe will fit the mounts. It is a 2.0 4cyl toyota so is smaller but doesn't have the same issues.

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