Thanks to all of you sharing their experience and especially to the expert advisers. I have a 92 Accord that died on the road one wet night (yes it rains here in Oregon). Someone said replace the fuel filter, and so I did (it was overdue anyway). Now I tested the spark plug wires and there is no spark. After reading some of the posts, I realized I should do the K test, and have the CEL light stay on after the 3 seconds. I also have been checking the voltage at the igniter, and have none. I also have no voltage at the yellow lead to the coil. The coil is shot, as the ohms are at infinity across 2 sets of terminals. I know I'm rambling, but can anyone suggest how to track an open circuit from the ingition coil to the ingnition switch??
It seems I have more information than the ability to process it properly.

Duane in Japan

Ealier you stated no power to coil, here you say you have power to the ignitor, Can you please verify your current situation, pardon the pun.

AutoZone can test your coil and ignitor, you also have not mentioned trying to jump power to the distributor connector (if needed, sounds like its not needed) blk/yel wire................

IF you go to AutoZone, can you explain how they test these items, I have not been back to the world in several years and they did not do this test before, thanks.

popsbluejazz

Thanks for the follow up Duane. I must have had some connectors unplugged or something, when I checked for power before. I redid my tests, and I have power to the coil, and to the igniter. Autozone tested the coil and it is OK. They just check the resistance across certain terminals and if it's in spec. it is good to go. It is looking more and more like the igniter, as TXGreasemonkey suggested earlier. I have been trying to get the igniter out, but the screws seem frozen, and I'm afraid I'm going to strip them out. I have half a mind to get some vice grips on them and turn them out. Do you have suggestions on how to get them out? All the checks on the igniter have been fine, except for the continuity test with the blue wire going to the tachometer terminal, since I don't know where that is yet. But I'm not sure what difference it makes, since the manual says if the checks are OK, replace the igniter!!!!!???????
Thanks again Duane for your inputs.

Duane in Japan

I do not trust the resistance test on the coil, I guess AutoZone needs the ignitor too, I thought they put one or both of the items on a test machine, they must need both.

I use a pair of dykes to get stuck screws out, vise grips also work. I put the dykes perpendicular to the rounded (button head) screw, squeeze so hard that the dykes cut into the head of the screw making two indentations 180 degrees apart from each other, this bite into the screw head gives a grip on the head, then while squeezing hard and turning CCW, the screw usually comes out. Vise grips tend to do more damage, but as a last resort, I will use them too.

If you get it out, do not mix up the screws for the ignitor and the coil, the coil screws are shorter, putting longer screws in will pull the metal insert out and break the wire connection inside (unviewable), BTDT.

popsbluejazz

Duane in Japan,
Thanks for continuing to lead me along the proper path. I'll try the pair of dykes as you suggest first instead of the vice grips. I'll keep those screws separate too; thanks for the great guidance.

popsbluejazz

I wanted to close this question and thanks to Duane in Japan and TXgreasemonkey for the guidance; it was awesome, and led me to finally replace the entire distributor for 150 from Autozone. My mechanic cousin in FL says the distributor is a weak link for the Hondas, so you may want to try that first.