[scarpullam]

The car is a 1994 Toyota Camry 4cyl automatic.

Recently replaced blown head gasket. Car started after repair but ran for only 5 seconds before it died and wouldn't start again.

After checking the timing belt and cam positions I cranked the engine and performed a spark test which produced a nice, white/blue spark.

I then proceeded to test other ignition components to locate the problem. Tested the EFI and Starter relays and where they plug in. All tested fine. However, during one of the tests (I'm not sure which relay), connecting the multimeter to the suggested plug ports made a big spark and small puff of smoke. The engine cranked fine but NO spark since. Afterwards I re-tested all of these relays and plugs which tested within specs.

I then proceeded to check/test the following:
-plug wires
-plugs
-Primary and secondary coil
-distributor
-signal generator
-lastly, I replaced the ignitor.

Still no spark. Proceeded to test ECM values but could not get a reading on any of the suggested troubleshooting voltages or resistances at the ECM under the dashboard.

Does this mean the ECM needs to be replaced? Or is there another test process to eliminate a bad ECM.

I would be unbelieveably grateful in getting any help to get this car started. Driving my son's toyota 4x4 is like driving a rock.

scarpullam

[kitch428]

Answer this simple question first. With the key in the on position, does the "check engine" light come on the dash and stay on while the key is on.
Toyota protects it's ECM's from things like this so I'm not thinking you harmed it.

Also, a very common mistake made when head jobs are done on these, is the engine wiring harness not roughted correctly around the EGR pipe. The harness will melt once the engine starts to warm up.

[scarpullam]

The car is a 1994 Toyota Camry 4cyl automatic.

Recently replaced blown head gasket. Car started after repair but ran for only 5 seconds before it died and wouldn't start again.

After checking the timing belt and cam positions I cranked the engine and performed a spark test which produced a nice, white/blue spark.

I then proceeded to test other ignition components to locate the problem. Tested the EFI and Starter relays and where they plug in. All tested fine. However, during one of the tests (I'm not sure which relay), connecting the multimeter to the suggested plug ports made a big spark and small puff of smoke. The engine cranked fine but NO spark since. Afterwards I re-tested all of these relays and plugs which tested within specs.

I then proceeded to check/test the following:
-plug wires
-plugs
-Primary and secondary coil
-distributor
-signal generator
-lastly, I replaced the ignitor.

Still no spark. Proceeded to test ECM values but could not get a reading on any of the suggested troubleshooting voltages or resistances at the ECM under the dashboard.

Does this mean the ECM needs to be replaced? Or is there another test process to eliminate a bad ECM.

I would be unbelieveably greatful in getting any help to get this car started. Driving my son's toyota 4x4 is like driving a rock.

scarpullam

With the key in the on position, does the "check engine" light come on the dash and stay on while the key is on -- YES IT DOES

Is the engine wiring harness not routed correctly around the EGR pipe -- NO IT ISN'T

[kitch428]

Ok, this tells me the EFI circuit is good. Next, we'll check for codes. I have resource to tell what it is right away if you get back to me.
Locate the data link connector under the hood, flip open the cover, make a jumper wire, or some guys just use a paper clip straightend out.
Jump pins E1 and TE1. Now turn on the key and count the blinks the check engine light flashes.
Let me know.
Hint: a steady on light means you didn't make proper connection. A consistent flashing light will be no codes. 2 flashes, pause, then 1 is code 21... and so on.

[scarpullam]

The car is a 1994 Toyota Camry 4cyl automatic.

Recently replaced blown head gasket. Car started after repair but ran for only 5 seconds before it died and wouldn't start again.

After checking the timing belt and cam positions I cranked the engine and performed a spark test which produced a nice, white/blue spark.

I then proceeded to test other ignition components to locate the problem. Tested the EFI and Starter relays and where they plug in. All tested fine. However, during one of the tests (I'm not sure which relay), connecting the multimeter to the suggested plug ports made a big spark and small puff of smoke. The engine cranked fine but NO spark since. Afterwards I re-tested all of these relays and plugs which tested within specs.

I then proceeded to check/test the following:
-plug wires
-plugs
-Primary and secondary coil
-distributor
-signal generator
-lastly, I replaced the ignitor.

Still no spark. Proceeded to test ECM values but could not get a reading on any of the suggested troubleshooting voltages or resistances at the ECM under the dashboard.

Does this mean the ECM needs to be replaced? Or is there another test process to eliminate a bad ECM.

I would be unbelieveably greatful in getting any help to get this car started. Driving my son's toyota 4x4 is like driving a rock.

scarpullam

Sorry for the delay - had overheating issues with 89 toy truck.

Conducted several tests as you outline above, just to make sure all of your instructions were followed and in the correct sequence.

In each test, I received a steady on light.

BUT, I've been taking off the negative battery connection every time out after I'm done working on the car. So, I performed several tests after I had reconnected the battery and tried to start up the motor.

Same problem - steady on light

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Scarpullam, there's no need to keep repeating your original posting.
. Check all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Check main relay.
. If the problem continues, after checking all fuses and the main relay, I'm inclined to suspect a bad ECM, based on your test of ECM values and the CEL staying on.

[kitch428]

Even by disconnecting battery, the ecm should give feedback... And that is a steady flash of the CEL. That's of course your sure you made proper jump across those pins.
Well my friend, with your probing and testing, I believe you may have done damage to the ecm. Best thing to do at this point is try and find one at the cheapest cost.
But there may be one more glimmer of hope. Check the AM2 fuse. It's a pink square 30A fuse located in the fuse junction block. The drivers lower dash panel may need to come out, and an air duct that is in the way.

[hiperf402]

I say this. You jumped something you shouldn't have, produced a nice light show with some smoke effects. Whatever smoked, replace it. It's fried. Get on with your day.

[DesertEpoch]

Answer this simple question first. With the key in the on position, does the "check engine" light come on the dash and stay on while the key is on.
Toyota protects it's ECM's from things like this so I'm not thinking you harmed it.

Also, a very common mistake made when head jobs are done on these, is the engine wiring harness not roughted correctly around the EGR pipe. The harness will melt once the engine starts to warm up.

Hey I've ran into the same problem no start on my 91 3vze toyota the check engine light does NOT come on and does not stay lit while the ignition is on could u run me the direction I should be headed to fix this?

[kitch428]

First thing to check is the 15A EFI fuse under the hood. If it's fried, try another to see if it pops right away.
What has been done recently to possibly cause this?

[DesertEpoch]

It's a 91 3.0 Yota Sr5 PU
For about 2 months before it just died it would kind of sputter/stutter like it wasn't getting enough fuel or it was going to die I'd press down on the gas pedal and it go from stuttering to pulling like it was floored. One morning pulled up to a stop light it shut off. The engine cranked over fine but wouldn't even get a bite to start. Someone (obviously an idiot) told me to pull the fuses out for awhile and the computer would reset and that would probably fix it.. did that and I wasn't sure if I had the CEL before but I didn't after that tried jump B+ to FP and then the engine diag B+ to E- or something of the sort checked the EFI Main relay, Circuit opening relay because I obviously wasn't getting fuel I dun want to dive into the ECU that's just off limits unless a master tech tells me so. But I decided to check the spark when I turn it over and same as the fuel I have none so No Spark No Fuel and fuses under dash/hood are all checked and good battery has charge and cranks the engine over fine... had the igniter checked by a friend of mine... and I'm stumped :l

[TxGreaseMonkey]

DesertEpoch, have you tried substituting another coil?

[kitch428]

"tried jump B+ to FP and then the engine diag B+ to E- or something of the sort "

Oh lord, if you jumped B+ and E1 at the check connector, you caused a direct short to the ECM.
You definitely have fried something. I didn't get any feedback on that EFI fuse yet? Good? NG?

Note: you should have opened a new thread for this. This thread was for a Camry concern and all of a sudden turned into a truck posting.
PPl Google particular vehicle problems and end up here most likely like you did. No worries, you're new here. Just showing you the ropes.
You'll be very surprised on how much knowledge is willing to help you out if you give all the possible information you can give.
You did a good job with your post. Just should be in it's own thread. My .02

[Neska]

No