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    GTBuzz's Avatar
    GTBuzz Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 19, 2010, 04:20 PM
    1990 Chevy Pickup Spark Plug Change
    I have a 1990 Chevy P/U with a 350CI engine. I had one spark plug that is so rusted it will not budge. I have soaked it with WD40. Is there another penetrating oil that would work better? The porcelin top did break but the hex part of the plug is still in tact. I'm concerned about putting too much torque on the plug for fear of stripping out or damaging the threads. Any recommendations on what to try? I have read where coating it with penetrating oil and working the wrench back and forth will eventually work but I'm not sure.

    Also, I was trying to change the rotor and it is pressed onto the distributor shaft. What is best way to pry it off? It seems as if the press fit is very heavy.

    Thanks in advance for the help.

    Be blessed!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jan 19, 2010, 05:19 PM

    Try PB Blaster, available at O'Reilly Auto Parts.
    GTBuzz's Avatar
    GTBuzz Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 19, 2010, 06:33 PM

    TxGreaseMonkey,

    Thanks for the response. Should I let the PB Blaster soak overnight? Also, do you have any recommendations on how to get the rotor off the distributor shaft?

    Pretty cool on the John 3:16. Two of my favorites are Philippians 4:13 and 4:19. I have stood on those two verses many times!!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jan 19, 2010, 08:08 PM

    Apply the PB Blaster, allow it to soak, apply PB Blaster again, and allow it to soak overnight. Work the plug back-and-forth carefully with a breaker bar, spraying it liberally with PB Blaster. Try WD-40 on the rotor.
    GTBuzz's Avatar
    GTBuzz Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 21, 2010, 08:17 AM

    TxGreaseMonkey,

    The PB Blaster worked great. I got the plug out with a few grunts on the wrench. The last person to change the plugs didn't put any compound on the threads. In addition, I was able to get the rotor off as well.

    This weekend I'll be changing the plug wires. The plastic wire clips had dry rotted and broke into many pieces. Is it important to use clips for spacing purposes or can I use zip ties to bundle them together and keep them off the headers?

    Thanks again for all of your help. You have been a great blessing!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jan 21, 2010, 08:23 AM

    It's important to use separators, since it keep the wires from cross-firing. You should be able to call around and get them from your local auto parts stores. Additionally, I always take a clean rag and clean the wires with silicone spray. Silicone spray prevents moisture from getting into the pores of the wires and shorting them out, since it's a dielectric. Bundling spark plug wires is a "no no."

    Use a flux brush when you apply a thin coating of antiseize compound. If you apply too much, it will coke in the hole and prevent the plug from coming out easily.
    GTBuzz's Avatar
    GTBuzz Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 21, 2010, 11:34 AM
    I'll get the separators and take care of that this weekend as well. One more question regarding my truck, sometimes when the brake is applied real hard, the parking brake light will light up. Once the brake is released, the light will eventually go off. What does this mean? I have checked the level of brake fluid within the master cylinder and it is OK. Could this mean I have air inside the brake lines?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jan 21, 2010, 11:40 AM

    Your idle rpm may be too low.

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