At Ask Me Help Desk you can ask questions in any topic and have them
answered for free by our experts. To ask questions or participate in
answering them you must register for a free account. By registering you
will be able to:
Get free answers from experts in any of our 300+
topics.
Approximately 1 month ago, the check engine light came on and the RPMs dropped to 2K and the car would not go above 30 miles an hour. I immediately pulled over and called my husband and the car stalled. After 5-10 minutes, I was able to restart the car, the check engine light was still on, but it was running fine. I drove directly to an autoshop to have the battery and alternator checked. The young man pulled the battery out of the car to test it and said it was giving no charge. So I changed the battery, however by pulling it out of the car I am sure the sensors were reset and of course the check engine light went off. The car drove fine for 2+ weeks, but I was still leery. Last week I had the timing belt, water pump and alternator belt replaced b/c there are 133,000 miles on the car. Yesterday, the same thing happened. I was on the interstate going approx. 70 mph and the check engine light came on and the RPM dropped b/w 2-2.5 K and I was unable to get the car above 20 mph. I took it to the mechanic approx. 15 minutes prior to them closing last night and they said they would look at it today, but upon cranking it this morning, the check engine light was off and they could not duplicate the problem with driving the car and raising the RPM over 5K. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
1. Check for codes.
2. Test/replace Ignition Control Module (igniter) and coil. I suspect the igniter is breaking down under load (heat), especially at high speed. I recommend replacing these components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. They are problematic components on Hondas, along with main relays.
Approximately 1 month ago, the check engine light came on and the RPMs dropped to 2K and the car would not go above 30 miles an hour. I immediately pulled over and called my husband and the car stalled. After 5-10 minutes, I was able to restart the car, the check engine light was still on, but it was running fine. I drove directly to an autoshop to have the battery and alternator checked. The young man pulled the battery out of the car to test it and said it was giving no charge. So I changed the battery, however by pulling it out of the car I am sure the sensors were reset and of course the check engine light went off. The car drove fine for 2+ weeks, but I was still leery. Last week I had the timing belt, water pump and alternator belt replaced b/c there are 133,000 miles on the car. Yesterday, the same thing happened. I was on the interstate going approx. 70 mph and the check engine light came on and the RPM dropped b/w 2-2.5 K and I was unable to get the car above 20 mph. I took it to the mechanic approx. 15 minutes prior to them closing last night and they said they would look at it today, but upon cranking it this morning, the check engine light was off and they could not duplicate the problem with driving the car and raising the RPM over 5K. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
have you had the egr valve cleaned or maybe the catalytic converter might be plug?
Approximately 1 month ago, the check engine light came on and the RPMs dropped to 2K and the car would not go above 30 miles an hour. I immediately pulled over and called my husband and the car stalled. After 5-10 minutes, I was able to restart the car, the check engine light was still on, but it was running fine. I drove directly to an autoshop to have the battery and alternator checked. The young man pulled the battery out of the car to test it and said it was giving no charge. So I changed the battery, however by pulling it out of the car I am sure the sensors were reset and of course the check engine light went off. The car drove fine for 2+ weeks, but I was still leery. Last week I had the timing belt, water pump and alternator belt replaced b/c there are 133,000 miles on the car. Yesterday, the same thing happened. I was on the interstate going approx. 70 mph and the check engine light came on and the RPM dropped b/w 2-2.5 K and I was unable to get the car above 20 mph. I took it to the mechanic approx. 15 minutes prior to them closing last night and they said they would look at it today, but upon cranking it this morning, the check engine light was off and they could not duplicate the problem with driving the car and raising the RPM over 5K. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I definitely think this is the transmission. I have had a lot of cars and this has happened on every one of them. It can happen "stall out" once in a blue moon or the transmission can drive bad all of the time but either way it sounds like the transimission. Try changing the transmission fluid and you can also try a trans additive to help against stalling and this will help a lot. If this does not help you are looking at a new transmission. I may be wrong about this but I do believe that is what it is..
This can also be fuel related or do to a clogged catalytic converter, bad o2 sensors, map sensor or modulator valve. You can also try buying a fuel injector cleaner and put it in the gas tank because it may be clogged also. Also try changing the fuel filter if it has been a while. This problem is one that usually don't happen a lot and is hard to diagnose because it doesn't happen a lot. Again most likely it is a slow failing transmission and can last a year or two and eventually go out.
I agree with Txgreasemonkey, but in addition, I would like to add, due to not knowing the year of the car, I am going to say, You need to have the Throttle Position sensor checked and have a test performed on the MAP (manifold absolute Pressure) sensor (there is a step by step procedure in the factory service manual) which may just mean that you need to take it to a Certified Honda/acura mechanic.
1. Check for codes.
2. Test/replace Ignition Control Module (igniter) and coil. I suspect the igniter is breaking down under load (heat), especially at high speed. I recommend replacing these components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. They are problematic components on Hondas, along with main relays.
Before doing anything else, I would replace the fuel filter. It may be that it's so clogged that it's affecting performance.
Now, I see that you have a 2001 Civic LX. It has a distributorless ignition system (DIS), not a separate Ignition Control Module and coil. If replacing the fuel filter doesn't solve the problem, I suspect you have a problem with the DIS or the ECM. It's best to have Honda check things out.
Linear Mode
