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I was on my way too the grocery store, when the my windstar van suddenly died? No hints to help me diagnose. No codes from my OMD II (is this right?) that my dad had bought for my birthday. It won't go into R, D, 1,2, despite starting and reving with no problems. I wish I could run start it like my dirt bike I had when I was a kid. My dad who lives like 500 miles from me said that I should go to this forum for help? Otherwise, he would make the drive next week to help. I have some basic knowledge of this windstar and have changed DFPI sensor, and Ford sold me some kit to get rid of p170 p171 OMD II codes so I did this but this gives me no codes. It figures I get my nails done, like the first time in a year and I know, it'll be grime and grit for the next little while. I really can't afford like 2000 dollars on another tranny!
Your situation seems unusual, to me. Nothing too noteworthy in the pan to indicate anything really alarming, yet it doesn't move at all, even after replacing filter, fluid, and TR Sensor. Did you allow the transmission gear selector to pause 5 seconds in each gear, after you started the vehicle? The vehicle needs to be on level ground. If the front end is jacked up or it's on ramps, it needs to be lowered.
You definitely need to check all fuses with a test light or multi-meter.
Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged (which we know is not a factor, since it was changed). The first and last cause we have addressed; the other two would require professional help.
Once you get this solved, only use Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF in your vehicle. Both fluids are Mercon V approved. They provide a "margin of safety" we all need with automatic transmissions. ATXs are the weak link on front-wheel drive vehicles. Change ATF and filter every 30,000 miles.
Your situation seems unusual, to me. Nothing too noteworthy in the pan to indicate anything really alarming, yet it doesn't move at all, even after replacing filter, fluid, and TR Sensor. Did you allow the transmission gear selector to pause 5 seconds in each gear, after you started the vehicle? The vehicle needs to be on level ground. If the front end is jacked up or it's on ramps, it needs to be lowered.
You definitely need to check all fuses with a test light or multi-meter.
Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged (which we know is not a factor, since it was changed). The first and last cause we have addressed; the other two would require professional help.
Once you get this solved, only use Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF in your vehicle. Both fluids are Mercon V approved. They provide a "margin of safety" we all need with automatic transmissions. ATXs are the weak link on front-wheel drive vehicles. Change ATF and filter every 30,000 miles.
Hey Greasemonkey;
I have one more question.
A transmission guy who called me ++sweetie++told me that it was a tranny problem and that I would be out 2000.00. When asked what else it could possibly be, it told me it could be a driveshaft oil pump, but it was beyond any women's capable hands. Is this true? I bet I could do it if I had a detailed insturctional. My friends husband said if I take off the left tire I could get at it. Do I need to take the driveshaft off? A book or a weblink would be awesome.
If any woman could do it, I would bet on you! I'm impressed with what you have already done. Where there's a will, there's a way. Before you tackle the job, however, scope it out by getting the shop manual for your vehicle. It will give you a reality check on what's involved. Spend a lot of time going over what's involved. My wife, a retired Air Force major, says go girl!
Here's how I would envision the procedure beginning, to gain access to the transaxle:
. Loosen left drive axle/hub nut (likely 30 mm) 1/4-turn.
. Place the van on jack stands, with the front stands under the rocker panels.
. Remove front left wheel.
. Remove wheel liner.
. Place floor jack under left subframe.
. Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper mounting bracket, and disc. Support caliper with a piece of wire.
. Detach tie-rod end from steering knuckle, by removing and discarding cotter pin, losening nut on tie-rod ball stud, and separating tie-rod end from steering knuckle with a puller.
. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (Torx E8), then move sensor out of the way.
. Disconnect control arm from steering knuckle, by removing nut and using a puller to separate ball joint.
. Loosen both subframe bolts (likely 18 mm).
. Lower subframe 2 inches, keeping the pressure off of the bolts by using the floor jack.
. Remove drive axle/hub nut (discard) and push drive axle from hub, using a two-jaw puller. Grasp axle shaft in one hand and pull hub and strut assembly out to separate nose of CV joint from hub.
. Insert pry bar or large screwdriver between inner CV joint housing and transaxle case. Pry out just far enough to release the circlip. Seat pry bar on a solid surface and avoid damaging the transaxle case.
. Support outer CV joint with one hand, grasp axle shaft with other hand, remove support wire, and guide axle clear of chassis.
. Remove strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt.
. Wiggle knuckle and hub assembly off the strut.
. Remove three upper strut mounting nuts.
. Guide strut and spring assembly out of wheel well.
All of the above only provides access to the transaxle. Again, don't hold me to these steps, since I've never worked on your vehicle before. That's why you absolutely need to get a shop manual. Day 1 might be the steps above. Day 2 might be working on the transaxle. Day 3 could be buttoning-up everything.
wait....there is a servo in the rear of the trans.....middle, a cover held on by three bolts. if the snap ring on this servo breaks it will not apply band and will not move from a stop but will when pushed to faster speed. I dont see it in any picture you sent its on the outside of the trans in the rear middle.
What was the outcome? I have 2 1999 Windstars. On 1 the tranny will only go in 1st and R. The other I had a complete Tranny tune-up over a month ago. The tranny seemed to be doing fine. We took it on a few long trips and we drive it daily. The other day I was on my way to work and just as I pulled from a stop sign, I lost shifting. It feels like it's in Neutral. I want to start following the steps in this thread, but what is the outcome or current status? This is the most info I have found after a lot of research. Thanks.
PS. TxGreaseMonkey. I am also a John 3:16er DIYer. Right on!
Remember, transmission pan gaskets on most Fords are reuseable and superior to most of the aftermarket gaskets that come with transmission filters.
There are several links on changing transmission fluid and filter, in the General Automotive section of the Sticky, that may be of interest to you, should your transmission not need rebuilding. This link will, hopefully, allow you to drain the pan without making a mess:
Hi TxGreaseMonkey,
I'm also a John 3:16er and I'm trying to be as much of DIYer as possible. The extent of my car experience is changing my brakes and changing my oil. I've got a 1999 Windstar as well and I seem to have found myself in the same situation Jen did, in this thread. I've already had my tranny rebuilt about 4 years ago. I've only put about 30,000 mi on it since and it seems to have just died. Something I do remember though, the night before I lost my transmission, I was trying to pass a large truck so I gave the van a bit of juice and felt a jolt as it tried to kick into a higher gear...I remember I didn't like the feel of that. And then the next day I was on my way to work. I pulled out of my driveway and made it past a couple lights and at the third set of lights, as I was coming out of the intersection, I was in drive but it felt like I was in neutral...gave it gas and the engine just revved, but no movement in the wheels. I was lucky enough to coast into a gas station.
Can you give me some adivce...remembering I'm not to knowledgeable under the car.
I know, I read your post as well and thought, "that's really funny"...not, "hahah", but interesting
I was told by a mechanic that I should first try draining the transmission fluid and and refilling and adding an additive to it before I go out and get a new tranny (again). I know I could do it with a little guidance, but I've never changed the transmission fluid on my windstar before so I don't really know where to begin.
Have you tried anything yet or is your windstar just sitting in your driveway like mine?
Thanks for your response, and I'll make sure to keep you posted on my progress.
bakatak-70, it's extremely difficult to advise on transmission problems, in situations like your's and JRNYJUNK's. Be sure to check for codes, however, to see if that provides any direction. It's likely best to have a local transmission specialist examine the transmission. Ford will only install a rebuilt transmission, which comes with a 12-month warranty.
I frequently advise people that automatic transmissions on FWD vehicles are the weak link. Accordingly, I recommend using Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Universal Synthetic ATF. Drop and clean the pan, change the filter, and change all of the fluid every 30,000 miles. Here's an easy way for a do-it-yourselfer to perform this very important task:
Probable causes, when the engine runs but the car does not move in any gear, are shift cable broken or out of adjustment, oil pump worn or binding, regulator valve stuck, or ATF filter clogged. Most transmission work, outside of changing the fluid and filter, is beyond the average do-it-yourselfer and should be left to a professional. The lesson from these experiences is to adopt the best preventive maintenance program you can.
What was the outcome? I have 2 1999 Windstars. On 1 the tranny will only go in 1st and R. The other I had a complete Tranny tune-up over a month ago. The tranny seemed to be doing fine. We took it on a few long trips and we drive it daily. The other day I was on my way to work and just as I pulled from a stop sign, I lost shifting. It feels like it's in Neutral. I want to start following the steps in this thread, but what is the outcome or current status? This is the most info I have found after a lot of research. Thanks.
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