FAQ: How to Troubleshoot, Repair & Maintain Hondas and Selected Other Vehicles
Asked Dec 4, 2006, 09:16 AM
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1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
2. Adjust “Final Idle Speed” to 700 rpm, using the idle speed adjustment procedures above.
3. Turn off engine and all electrical systems.
4. Jump the Service Check Connector (SCC) with a paper clip.
5. Connect positive inductive timing light lead to the positive battery terminal.
6. Connect negative inductive timing light lead to engine ground.
7. Connect inductive timing light lead to the No. 1 spark plug wire.
8. Start engine.
9. Using the timing light, rotate the distributor, after loosening the three 12mm mounting bolts, until timing is set to 16 degrees BTDC* on the crankshaft pulley. 16 degrees BTDC should be the middle of the three clustered hash marks on the pulley. Align middle hash mark on pulley with pointer above. You may want to take chalk or yellow paint and highlight the hash mark first.
10. Button everything up.
11. Remove the BACKUP fuse for 10 seconds, in order to reset the computer. Record any radio codes first.
On most 4-cylinder Civics and Accords, the starter motor is located on the passenger's side of the transmission, just beneath and to the rear of the distributor. The large starter motor cable, from the positive battery terminal, goes right to it.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the starter cable from the "B" terminal on the solenoid, then the BLK/WHT wire from the "S" terminal.
3. Remove the two bolts (14 mm) holding the starter; then, remove the starter. A 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench or breaker bar, with a 6-inch extension, usually does the trick. Spray both bolts with PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench first.
4. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: When installing the starter cable, ensure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. It's a good idea to clean both terminals and connectors with #240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool, and coat with dielectric grease.
Trick:Take a small flashlight and and figure out how the oxygen sensor's 4-wire pigtail connector comes apart--don't force it. Frequently, the trick is to gently separate the connector from the bayonet mount first; then, it easily comes apart or it's apparent how it unlocks. Honda connectors can be tricky and give some do-it-yourselfers a fit.
Background. The basic job of the sensor is to monitor the air fuel mixture under idle, moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions. Under heavy acceleration, the oxygen sensor goes into "open loop," which basically means the ECM ignores the oxygen sensor.
Removal. Remove heat shield, spray old oxygen sensor with PB Blaster or Kroil (let it sit for a while), spray with PB Blaster or Kroil again, warm-up car for several minutes, and use a 15-inch breaker bar on the end of a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to remove sensor. Afterwards, clean threads thoroughly with brake cleaner, allow to sit for quite a while and "air out," and install new oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound. Good cleaning technique is a must. Tighten to 33 lb-ft or 4.5 kg-m. Lightly coat heat shield bolts with anti-seize compound, before reinstalling the heat shield.
I am not a fan of universal oxygen sensors or those made by Bosch for Hondas. I recommend Denso sensors. Over time, you want the best sensor or you will pay for it in poor gas mileage and performance. Oxygen sensors are EXTREMELY sensitive to anything, particularly silicone spray, RTV sealers, WD-40, or any oil on the pigtail connector. Don't even use non-chlorinating brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner on oxygen sensor connectors. NEVER use any of these products around the oxygen sensor or pigtail connector. If you do, the ECM will keep throwing a code forever, once the engine warms up and is out of "open loop" mode. Remove pigtail connector and gently dress the male and female connectors with jeweler files, if you suspect any contamination.
After replacing the oxygen sensor, on OBD-I vehicles, clear the Check Engine Light by removing the Back Up (7.5 A) Fuse in the under hood fuse box, or by disconnecting the negative battery cable, for 10 seconds to reset the ECM. On OBD-II vehicles, use a code reader or scan tool to reset the ECM.
The fuel filter should be replaced 1) every 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first, or 2) whenever the fuel pressure drops below 40-47 psi, with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched, after making sure that the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place shop towel under and around fuel filter.
3. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing gas cap.
4. Remove 12 mm banjo bolt and 14 mm fuel feed pipe (use flare wrench) from fuel filter.
5. Remove fuel filter clamp and fuel filter.
6. Use new copper washers, when assembling.
7. Tighten banjo bolt to 16 lb-ft, service bolt (middle of banjo bolt) to 11 lb-ft, and fuel feed pipe to 28 lb-ft. Clean flared joint of high pressure hoses thoroughly before reconnecting.
CAUTION: Only change fuel filter when the engine is cold. Keep a Class B fire extinguisher ready. No smoking or open flames allowed (e.g., gas hot water heater, dryer, or furnace). Keep tools a safe distance from battery. Wear safety goggles.
CAUTION: Be sure to turn ignition switch OFF, before disconnecting the wires.
4. Disconnect the main relay connector and connect the BLK/YEL (5) wire and YEL/GRN (7) wire with a jumper wire.
5. Check for battery voltage at the fuel pump connector, when ignition switch is turned ON (position II). Attach red test probe to the YEL/GRN wire and negative probe to the BLK wire. If battery voltage is available, replace the fuel pump. If there is no voltage, check fuel pump ground and wire harness.
1. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing fuel tank cap.
2. Remove rear seat.
3. Remove access panel (4 screws).
4. Disconnect fuel lines and connector.
5. Remove fuel pump mounting nuts.
6. Remove fuel pump from fuel tank.
WARNING: Do not smoke while working on fuel system. Keep open flames away from work area.
Our cold weather friends, living in places like Alaska, Canada, Northern Europe, and the Baltics, who are experiencing insufficient heat during the winter, may want to restrict the airflow through the radiator, by carefully rigging a plastic radiator cover (winter front). You may have to experiment with the proper size--better yet, make it adjustable. This is not an uncommon problem, during the winter, on some vehicles. I'm sure you have seen folding mechanical radiator covers on some delivery trucks. Your heater core, when the blower is turned on high, may be acting like an efficient radiator and dropping the engine temperature too much (hyper cooling). A simple "winter front" could make a big difference in your driving comfort, performance, and gas mileage.
I replaced my distributor on 92 accord following you instructions. However, towards the end, it says that I need to read section C and D to precisely set idle speed and ignition timing. Can you tell where I can find those Sections? Thanks.
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