Check out these tips and explanations from our Cars & Trucks expert--the best car and truck guy on the net!

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TxGreaseMonkey

1. How to Change the PCV Valve on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, with 3.0L Duratec Engine

1. Disconnect battery cables (negative first).

2. Disconnect MAF Sensor connector.

3. Remove air filter.

4. Disconnect hoses (3) going to air intake.

5. Remove air intake.

6. Remove throttle cover (2 Christmas tree pins).

7. Remove both 8 mm bolts securing throttle bracket to throttle body.

8. Remove throttle spring.

9. Unhook electrical wire bundle from throttle body stud.

10. Remove Emission Separator “L” from throttle body.

11. Remove Emission Separator tube from PCV Valve.

12. Here's the trick: Remove PCV Valve, using a 7/8” deep socket and a 12” extension bar, by rotating it 180 degrees counter-clockwise.

13. Install new PCV Valve (Motorcraft EV-243), by rotating it 180 degrees clockwise to fully seat it, after coating O-ring with clean engine oil.

14. Attach new Emission Separator (Motorcraft KCV-116) and button everything up.

The local Ford dealer wanted $350 to replace the PCV Valve—3 hours of labor to remove the upper intake manifold, fuel rail, and lower intake manifold, plus parts. Many people do it that way. This is a much simpler, faster (1 hour), and cheaper procedure (no need to replace UIM/LIM gaskets). I know the above procedure works, since I have used it. Changing the PCV Valve becomes a big deal on Duratec engines, since it's located under the fuel injection system--deep inside the "V" of the engine. Access is further obstructed by a radiator hose and a large square-wire bundle.

Only use Motorcraft EV-243 or AutoZone's PCV1001 PCV valves, since none of the others listed online with various auto parts stores will work. Likewise, only use the Motorcraft KCV-116 Emission Separator. Don't make the mistake and buy the Motorcraft KCV-117 Emission Separator, even though the Motorcraft online catalog lists it as the correct one--it clearly won't work. Bottom Line: Buy the parts first, in order to gain insight on how everything works.

TxGreaseMonkey

2. How to Change the Alternator on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, with 3.0L Duratec Engine

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove serpentine belt.

3. Remove top alternator mounting bolt.

4. Raise car, place jack stands under rocker panels, and remove right-front wheel.

5. Trick #1: Remove right-front plastic fender liner.

6. Remove alternator splash shield.

7. Unfasten outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle.

8. Remove brake line bracket from fender.

9. Unfasten sway bar from sway bar end link.

10. Trick #2: Place jack under subframe and remove rear subframe bolt (18 mm). Replace bolt and screw it in three turns. Do the same to the front subframe bolt (18 mm).

11. Lower subframe as far as the bolts will allow the engine to drop. Park the jack under the subframe, to take the load slightly off the subframe bolts.

12. Remove plug from alternator.

13. Remove the two other alternator mounting bolts.

14. Remove mega fuse wire from alternator, clean connection with abrasive cloth (or steel wool), apply dielectric grease.

15. Remove alternator.

16. Install new alternator and button things up. Raise subframe with jack, then tighten both bolts 66 lb.-ft.

TxGreaseMonkey

3. How to Change the Water Pump on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, with 3.0L Duratec Engine

1. Disconnect negative battery cable and, two minutes later, disconnect positive battery cable, to prevent accidental deployment of air bags.

2. Remove serpentine belt.

3. Place car on jack stands.

4. TRICK: Remove right-front wheel and plastic wheel-well liner (3 screws and 4 push pins), for access.

5. Remove air dam and drain radiator.

6. Disconnect radiator hoses from water pump.

7. TRICK: Remove antifreeze reservoir (degasser), for improved access.

8. TRICK: Remove nuts securing the power steering reservoir and ease it aside, which will give you plenty of room to remove the tensioner idler pulley.

9. Remove tensioner pulley, for improved access. Use a 15 mm combination wrench, with a 15 degree offset, to remove the idler pulley bolt.

10. Remove water pump assembly, by loosening four 13 mm nuts securing the pump/housing to engine (3 from the top and 1 through wheel-well access) and three 10 mm bolts securing the pump/housing to the air conditioning compressor brace (through wheel-well access).

11. Disconnect heater hose from water pump.

12. Separate water pump from pump housing.

13. Clean gasket and sealant material from pump housing.

14. Coat new gasket, on both sides, with black RTV sealant, Permatex No. 2, or other suitable sealant.

15. Install pump on pump housing and tighten the (7) M6x1.0, Grade 5, cap screws hand-tight. Then, tighten cap screws to 98 inch-pounds (lubricated), using a 5 mm hex bit socket. The Haynes Manual and AllData say to tighten the cap screws to 18 lb.-ft., which will strip the aluminum threads in the water pump.

16. Install new pump/housing on engine, tightening the 3 bolts securing the air conditioning compressor brace to 18 lb.-ft. and the 4 nuts securing the pump/housing to the engine to 22 lb.-ft.

17. Reattach radiator hoses, heater hose, button everything up, and refill with coolant.

TxGreaseMonkey

4. How to Change the Rear Spark Plugs on a 1996 thru 2001 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, with 3.0L Duratec Engine

1. Remove cabin filter cowl, as if you were going to change the cabin filter.

2. Here's the trick: Remove three 5.5 mm (7/32") screws and remove the lower cowl. This provides plenty of room to reach the rear spark plugs. This eliminates the need to remove the upper intake manifold or work by feel. It's such an easy solution to a difficult problem!

3. TxGreaseMonkey only recommends tackling this job, if you have a 3/8-in. drive Craftsman 3-piece quick-release extension bar set or equivalent, 3/8-in. drive ratchet, 3/8-in. drive 15” flex “T” handle (breaker bar), 3/8-in. drive torque wrench (calibrated in inch-pounds), 3/8-in drive 8 mm socket, 5/8-in. spark plug socket with sponge rubber plug holder for a 3/8-in drive ratchet, silicone spray, 10” piece of 3/8-in. I.D. fuel line, Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound, Motorcraft SP433 platinum plugs, and a tube of Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant (133A). High temperature nickel anti-seize compound is even better, but more expensive. Use factory-recommended plugs, since my experience using cross-referenced plugs has not been good. Make sure the engine is “stone cold” before removing any spark plugs or you increase the risk of stripping the threads in the aluminum head.

4. Silicone-spray the sponge rubber plug holder inside the spark plug socket now, so that the newly installed plug will not pull the socket off the extension bar in the spark plug tube later. You don’t need to add any more tension to the job, by losing control of anything in the deep spark plug tubes on the backside of the engine. Disconnect the electrical connector to the coil on the left rear plug. Use the 8 mm socket and ratchet to remove the hex-head bolt securing the coil. Remove coil, clean with a rag and silicone spray, and apply silicone dielectric compound, using a small screwdriver, to the inside of the spring wire going to the plug. Set the coil aside for now.

5. Connect the 6” quick-release extension bar to the spark plug socket. Insert into spark plug tube and seat over plug. Remove plug, using a 3/8-in. drive 15” flex “T” handle. A 3/8-in. drive ratchet may not provide enough leverage to remove the factory-installed plug. Proceed carefully, to prevent stripping the aluminum head.

6. Check spark plug gap and apply a half pea-size drop of anti-seize compound to the threads, making sure not to get any on the plug’s electrode or porcelain. As the plug is threaded, the compound will coat the threads. If too much anti-seize is applied, you run the risk of coking the plug in the hole, making it very difficult to remove next time. Lightly coat the outside porcelain surface of the plug with silicone dielectric grease. Install the spark plug into the spark plug tube and, using the 10” piece of 3/8-in. I.D. fuel line, thread the spark plug into the hole. Be careful not to cross-thread the plug. Connect the 6" quick-release extension bar to the spark plug socket and finish seating the plug. Attach the 3/8-in. drive torque wrench and tighten the plug to 96 in.-lbs. Use the lower end of the torque specs (7 to 14 ft.-lbs.), because anti-seize lubricant increases actual torque by around 40%. Reinstall the coil, electrical connector, and hex-head bolt. Using the same procedures, change the spark plugs on the remaining two cylinders.

TxGreaseMonkey

5. How to Clean the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor

Cleaning the MAF Sensor can increase gas mileage, horsepower, and general performance. This sensor measures air velocity, which the computer uses to determine proper air/fuel mixture. When the sensor gets covered with oil, dust, pollen, and air filter fibers, it results in a "rich" running engine, loss of power and higher emissions. Many recommend cleaning this sensor every time the air filter is changed.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove screws (usually two Security Torx T-20) securing MAF Sensor to air intake and carefully remove sensor.

3. Place sensor on a clean rag and spray hot-wires or hot plate with CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner 10 to 15 times, being careful not to touch the hot-wires. Be sure to spray all sides of the sensor and clean all wires and connectors. Other chemicals, such as brake cleaner and carburetor cleaner, are considered too aggressive, even though some people use them.

4. Allow sensor to throughly dry for 45 minutes.

5. Reinstall sensor in air intake and button everything up.

TxGreaseMonkey

6. How to Change the Fuel Filter on Most Ford Cars and Trucks

The inline fuel filter is usually located under the car, just in front of the right rear wheel. On many Ford pickup trucks, it's located in front of the left rear wheel. Be sure to wear safety goggles and keep a fire extinguisher handy. Change fuel filter every 30,000 miles.


1. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands.

2. Depressurize the fuel system. The usual recommendation is to disconnect the inertia switch connector, usually located in the right-rear trunk trim panel, start the car, and allow the engine to stumble. Removing the connector cuts power to the fuel pump. I prefer the following TRICK: Pull the under-hood fuel pump fuse (much easier). On my 2000 Ford Taurus, it's Fuse No. 16 (20A). Check your Owner's Manual. On many Ford pickup trucks, remove the fuel pump relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box.

3. Clean fittings on each end of filter.

4. Disconnect hairpin clips from the filter, by carefully prying upward with a small screwdriver. Separate fuel line from connector nipples on both ends of the filter, using a large screwdriver. On pickup trucks, use a 5/16" angled fuel line disconnect tool (Lisle 39410). If the inside release mechanism (spring) is rusted, spray with WD-40, PB Blaster, or Kroil.

5. Remove filter from bracket and install new filter, noting the flow direction arrow. TRICK: Use plastic caps, that come with some filters, to prevent spilling gasoline from old filter. Retighten clamp.

6. Reattach fuel lines, making sure they are fully seated, and install new hairpin clips.

7. Reconnect inertia switch connector or replace fuel pump fuse/relay. It's good technique to clean oxidation from fuse or relay contacts (#240 abrasive cloth or steel wool) and lightly coat with dielectric grease.

8. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.

9. Update maintenance log.

TxGreaseMonkey

7. How to Replace Front Quick Struts on Most Ford Tauruses

Removal:

1. Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle, and support securely on jack stands, placed under the sub frame. Remove front wheel.

2. Loosen, but do not remove, three upper strut mounting nuts (13 mm).

3. Remove ABS speed sensor wiring guide clip and brake hose bracket from strut.

4. Disconnect stabilizer bar link nut (18 mm) from strut.

5. Remove steering knuckle:

a. Remove brake caliper (12 mm), pads, caliper mounting bracket (15 mm), and disc. Support caliper with a piece of wire.

b. Detach outer tie-rod end from steering knuckle, by removing and discarding cotter pin, loosening nut (18 mm) on tie-rod ball stud, and separating tie-rod end from steering knuckle with a puller.

c. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor mounting bolt (Torx E8), then move sensor out of the way.

d. Disconnect control arm from steering knuckle, by removing ball joint nut (21 mm) and using a puller or ball joint separator to separate ball joint.

e. Remove front control arm mounting nut and bolt, remove rear mounting nut and bolt, and remove control arm. TRICK: Instead of removing the control arm, drop the subframe 2" by placing jack stands under the rocker panels and an hydraulic jack under the subframe. Remove front and rear subframe bolts (18 mm), screw them in 3 turns, and lower jack just enough to remove strut. Keep the hydraulic jack under the subframe, to keep the load off the subframe bolts.

f. Suspend axle with a piece of wire. Don’t let it hang free, because this can overextend and damage inner CV joint.

g. Mark relationship of strut to steering knuckle, which will simplify assembly.

h. Remove strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt (21 mm).

i. Wiggle knuckle and hub assembly off the strut. Tap assembly off strut with a brass hammer, if necessary.

6. Support strut and remove three upper strut mounting nuts.

7. Guide strut and spring assembly out of wheel well.

Installation:

1. Install strut, with studs extending up through the shock tower, and loosely tighten nuts.

2. Install steering knuckle:

a. Install knuckle and hub assembly onto end of strut, aligning blade on the strut with pinch joint in the knuckle. Align index mark made in Step 5g.

b. Install strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt (21 mm), but do not tighten at this time.

c. Install control arm.

d. Pull down on control arm and insert ball joint stud into steering knuckle. Install ball joint nut (21 mm) and tighten 50 to 67 lb.-ft.

e. Tighten strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt (21 mm) 84 lb.-ft. If you lowered the subframe, raise it with the hydraulic jack and tighten both subframe bolts 66 lb.-ft.

f. Attach tie-rod end to the steering knuckle arm. Tighten nut (18 mm) 35 lb.-ft.; then, align the next castellation in the nut with the cotter in hole by further tightening.

h. Install disc, caliper mounting bracket, pads, and caliper. Tighten caliper mounting bracket bolts (15 mm) 65 to 87 lb.-ft. and tighten caliper bolts (12 mm) 25 lb.-ft.

3. Attach stabilizer bar link to strut and tighten nut (18 mm) 62 lb.-ft. Tighten stabilizer bar link nut (18 mm), going to the stabilizer bar, 42 lb.-ft.

4. Connect wiring clip and brake hose bracket to strut.

5. Tighten three upper strut mounting nuts (13 mm) 27 lb.-ft.

6. Install wheel and lug nuts. Lower vehicle and tighten lug nuts (19 mm) 90 lb.-ft. Pump brake pedal several times to seat brake.

TxGreaseMonkey

8. Radiator and Heater Hose Replacement

Replace radiator and heater hoses every 4 to 7 years. Ruptured hoses are a prime cause of aluminum block engines overheating, often resulting in warped heads, blown head gaskets, and damaged valves.

1. Drain coolant.

2. Remove hose clamp. Vise grips or standard hose clamp pliers work best. Don't waste your money buying spring-loaded hose clamp pliers (i.e., those with a cable)--the head is too large, in practice, to be any good. They look like they'd be great for getting into tight places; however, they are virtually useless.

3. Twist hose and see if it will come loose. If not, take a knife and cut the hose laterally along the nipple.

4. TRICK: Lightly coat the nipple with radiator hose grease (AutoZone), silicone grease, or white lithium grease. This prevents corrosion, allows easier positioning of hoses, and makes it much easier to remove hoses next time.

5. Install new hoses, clamps, and refill with coolant, following the manufacturer's procedure to eliminate air from the system.

6. Start engine, allowing it to reach normal operating temperature, and check for leaks.

TxGreaseMonkey

1. Basic Diesel Engine Troubleshooting

The generic steps below can help solve many diesel engine starting problems.


1. Remove and fully charge both batteries, disconnecting the negative battery cable first. Diesels require strong batteries, particularly in winter.

2. Clean battery terminals and cables--apply dielectric grease.

3. Check all underhood and underdash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

. Test Light. Turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), connect alligator clip to vehicle ground, and touch the probe to each test point on the fuse. The test light must come on at each test point on the fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

. Multimeter. Set multimeter to DCV, turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), touch the black test lead to ground, and touch the red test lead, in turn, to each test point on the fuse. The meter should record 12+ volts. Voltage must be recorded at each test point on the fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

These methods allow you to accurately and quickly check all under hood and under dash fuses in several minutes, even in dark, cramped locations. They eliminate the possibility of removing and replacing the fuse in the wrong slot. Should a fuse test bad, use the fuse puller, provided in the underdash fuse/relay box, to remove it.

4. Check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Attach code reader or scan tool to the Data Link Connector (under the dash), turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), and read codes.

5. Ensure engine oil is full and that the oil and filter have been recently changed. This can affect fuel pressure.

6. Verify oil pressure on Ford PSDs with a known good mechanical gauge. Oil pressure may be too low. The cutoff will shut the engine down when the oil pressure is too low. PSDs use the Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injection (HEUI) System, so it completely relies on the oil level and condition of the oil to fire the injectors. Running the oil level low or too long can cause unusual problems.

As the name implies, the HEUI injection system uses hydraulic energy to actuate unit injectors. A PSD has two oil pumps--a low pressure lubrication pump, located near or in the front engine cover below the water pump, and a high pressure hydraulic pump, located at the front of the engine V, underneath the fuel filter assembly. If the problem persists, focus on the High Pressure Oil Pump. If the Injector Control Pressure (ICP) is lower than expected (engine cranking), it is usually caused by low injection oil pressure or regulator (IPR) valve. High pressure oil is used to pressurize and inject fuel into the cylinders--each injector is essentially its own injection pump. The IPR is a by-pass valve that controls the high oil pressure, depending on demand. The ICP Sensor monitors the oil pressure in the LH head. Check for oil in the upper reservoir--it should be within one inch of the top (add as necessary). Verify that the correct oil is being used and that it has not thinned out. For no-start concerns, check ICP Sensor readings with a scan tool or pressure gauge.

7. Check glow plugs, which are used to heat the fuel:

. Testing. Use an ohm meter to check for continuity, which will tell you if the glow plug is shot, has continuity, or is worn. Ohm out each plug through the harness. Good glow plugs will have a resistance between 0.6 and 2 ohms. If you get infinite resistance on any plug, it is either bad or the connector under the valve cover is loose.

. Removal and installation. With the engine "stone cold," disconnect batteries, remove valve cover, disconnect glow plug connector, remove glow plug with a 10 mm deep socket, install new glow plug (torque to 13 ft.-lbs.), and reattach connector. After finishing the remaining 3 glow plugs on that bank, clean valve cover, install new gasket, and reinstall valve cover (torque to 97 in.-lbs.). Do the same thing for the other bank of glow plugs and reconnect batteries. Not a difficult job--should take several hours.

8. Check glow plug relay (GPR). Ensure the engine is cold, so that the PCM will tell the GPR to turn on. If the engine is hot, you won’t have as much time to check. Locate the GPR, which is often behind the fuel filter on top of the engine, slightly toward the passenger side of the valley on PSDs. There may be two relays there. If so, the rear relay is the GPR. It should have two fairly large wires (Yellow and Brown) connected to one of the large posts. With multitmeter set to DC volts, or 15V range if not autoranging, clip the positive (Red) lead to the output terminal (with yellow and brown wires connected), and the negative (Black) lead to ground. Turn the ignition switch to ON. If the GPR is good, it should click, and you should see 11 volts or so on the meter; then, depending on temperature, it will click off up to 2 minutes later. Do this a couple of times, to ensure it consistently makes the connection. If there is no voltage with this test, confirm by retesting as follows. Remove the two small wires from the smaller two of the four GPR terminals. With jumper wires, apply voltage from the battery across the two small terminals. If the voltmeter now reads voltage on the output terminal, the GPR is good and the problem is in the PCM circuit that tells the GPR to activate.

9. Check block heater, which is used to heat the engine.

10. Check fuel injectors. Take the valve cover off and look at each injector's exhaust, while the engine is running. Each time an injector fires, you should see oil exhausting from it. If you see oil coming out, then the injector is good. When replacing a bad injector, cut fuel, remove the glow plug, and crank the engine to get any fuel and oil out of the cylinder. If you don't, you could hydro-lock and bend a rod.

11. Purge fuel filter or fuel separator of water. Do this at least monthly--daily, if necessary. Water can be a big problem with diesels, particularly in the winter. Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles.

12. Use full-synthetic diesel heavy duty engine oil (HDEO). Installing a by-pass oil filter makes using top-quality synthetics very cost-effective, when integrated with a used oil analysis (UOA) program. All engines run better on synthetics, particularly turbo diesels. Besides significantly improved engine life, turbo life, performance, and gas mileage, synthetics promote easier starting, by allowing increased cranking speed. This last factor is particularly important in cold weather. Synthetics are also easier on batteries and starter motors. Excellent choices are:

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

Delo 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-40

Amsoil 5W-40: AMSOIL Premium API CJ-4 Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Oil (DEO)

13. Check turbo--it may be coking up or turbine blades may be bent. Only use full-synthetic diesel HDEO with a turbo.

14. Check/replace air filter. Diesels require lots of air--restricted air filters can bend turbine blades. Check every 5,000 miles, replacing it as needed.

15. Assess fuel quality. In cold weather, many diesel owners have problems with the new ultra low sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD). The problem comes from the refining process used to attain the ultra low sulfur ratio. It affects the naturally occurring wax and can cause the fuel to gel more readily in cold temperatures. Gelled fuel clogs the fuel filter and starves the engine, causing it to stop. Adding diesel fuel additive often helps. Diesel fuel additives, such as Amsoil's, and ultraclean kerosene added to the fuel help prevent this problem.

16. Check compression. A diesel engine that "cranks normally but won't start," regardless of the outside temperature, either has low compression or a fuel delivery problem. If compression is okay, a) check the fuel gauge (to ensure there's plenty of fuel), b) fuel filters, and c) fuel lines for obstructions.

TxGreaseMonkey

21. Front Disc Brake Pad Replacement

The generic information below may or may not be applicable to your vehicle.


1. Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Remove front wheel.

2. Spray caliper assembly with brake cleaner.

3. Remove lower brake caliper bolt (8 mm, Honda; 12 mm, domestic) and pivot the caliper on the upper caliper pin. Using wire, and a suspension component, suspend caliper out of the way.

4. Remove pads, by lifting them out of the mounting bracket. [If the disc needs replacing, lift the caliper enough to slide it off the top caliper pin. Using wire, and a suspension component, suspend caliper out of the way. Remove the caliper mounting bracket (two 12 mm bolts, Honda; 15 mm, domestic) and disc. Clean rust from hub, in order to prevent lateral run out (LRO), install new disc, and reinstall caliper mounting bracket (tighten caliper mounting bracket bolts 80 lb.-ft.]

5. TRICK: Clean and lubricate caliper pins with silicone grease or Squeak Relief. Ensure neoprene boots are in good shape.

6. Crack bleeder screw or remove master cylinder reservoir cap. Failure to do this can damage the brake system, particularly on Anti-lock Braking Systems (ABS).

7. Spread pads, using a disc brake pad spreader. This will drive the piston back into the caliper.

8. Apply Squeak Relief, Molykote M77, or other anti-squeal compound to pad side of shims and install new pads.

9. Lower caliper over pads and tighten caliper bolts (8 mm, Honda; 12 mm, domestic) 22 lb.-ft.

10. Tighten bleeder screw or replace master cylinder reservoir cap.

11. TRICK: Replace brake fluid every two years. This helps prevent vapor lock, removes air, moisture, rust, and soft rubber debris from the system, replenishes anti-corrosion properties of the fluid, and ensures calipers last a long time. The progression is normally RR, LF, LR, and RF. I recommend Valvoline Brake Fluid and ATE TYP 200, which are resonably priced ABS-certified fluids exhibiting high wet boiling points. ABS vehicles must only use ABS-certified brake fluid. Regular brake fluid is too viscous and generates too much heat in ABS systems. The fool-proof Brake Bleeder Economy One-Man, Cal-Van Tools, No. 247, allows one person to bleed the brake system in 45 minutes, saving approximately $110. This is one of the keys to having trouble-free brakes for years and years.

12. Check operation of the brakes. Pump the pedal a number of times, in order for the pedal to feel solid, not spongy. Warning: Don't operate the vehicle if you are in doubt about the effectiveness of the brake system.


Important: Not all disc brake pads meet Federal Safety Standards. Avoid cheap pads, the source of many brake problems. Insist on B.E.E.P. or D3EA CERTIFIED brake pads and rotors. Use the proper OEM, Bendix, Raybestos, or Wagner pads for your vehicle. Stay with the type of pads that came on your vehicle. If your vehicle came with ceramic brake pads, stay with them. Don't, for instance, switch to semi-metallic pads. A host of unforseen problems can result.