Check out these tips and explanations from our Cars & Trucks expert--the best car and truck guy on the net!

Of course, you're also welcome to post questions to this board for more information: Just click the "Ask about Cars & Trucks" button (NOT the Answer this Question button) at the top of the page. Be sure, though, to check the list below to see if your issue is already covered.

Members: Please do not post replies in this thread. If you have a question, click on the Ask About Cars & Trucks button above.

TxGreaseMonkey

4. Selecting the Proper Size Air Compressor


It's not unusual for individuals to purchase the wrong size air compressor. Begin by performing a requirements analysis. Look at the air requirements of the tools that you'll be using. Specifically, focus on tool air consumption at load, not average air consumption.

Average Air Consumption at Load

Marketing literature usually focuses on "Average Air Consumption," which gives the appearance that most compressors will adequately drive most common air tools. Reality ends up being something quite different.

For industrial clients, Ingersoll-Rand only quotes "Average Air Consumption at Load," not "Average Air Consumption." The difference is huge, especially with impact wrenches. Take, for instance, Ingersoll-Rand's 231C impact wrench, the most popular 1/2-inch drive impact wrench in the world:

PMAX: 90 psi
Avg. Air Consumption: 4.2 cfm.
Avg Air Consumption@Load: 22 cfm.

Most homeowner-size compressors won't come close to meeting the 22 cfm avg. air consumption @ load requirement. Therefore, instead of getting 600 lb.-ft. of nut-busting torque in reverse, they may only get 200 lb.-ft. That can be the difference between removing an axle nut on a wheel bearing/hub or not. The disappointment can be even greater if you ever work on ranch equipment; e.g., diesel tractors and bulldozers.

Line Drop

Most tool testing performance statistics assume a 15 foot (3/8-in. I.D.) hose, not the 25 to 50 foot hoses that most people use. Every 10% drop in line pressure results in a 14% drop in tool power and an 11% drop in torque. Attaching an inexpensive pressure gauge to the end of the hose will give you a handle on line drop. Line drop compounds the problem, if your compressor is too small to begin with.

Therefore, average air consumption at load and line drop are two very important factors to consider in selecting the proper size air compressor.

TxGreaseMonkey

12. How to Perform Electronic Air Temperature Control (EATC) On-Board Diagnostic Tests on Many Fords and Mercurys


NOTE: Intermittent (run time) trouble codes will be deleted after 80 ignition cycles.


The Remote Climate Control (RCC) module is capable of displaying both self-test faults and intermittent (run time) faults on the Integrated Control Panel (ICP). To obtain these codes, perform the following EATC on-board diagnostics test:

. On-board diagnostics should be run in ambient temperatures between 50 and 90 degrees F. Record all Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) displayed during diagnostic test mode.

. Turn ignition switch to RUN position.

. Push both OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously; then, press AUTO within two seconds.

. The test may run as long as 30 seconds, while the display will show a dashed line in the center of the display window.

. After about 20 seconds, a DTC will appear in the display. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP.

. To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs, press the "-" (cooler) side of the TEMP button. The RCC module will exit the self-test and retain all intermittent DTCs.

. Always exit the self-test, before powering the system down (system turned off).

. Refer to a DTC Index for additional help. Here are several common self-test faults:

024--A/C Electronic Blend Door Actuator Failure
030--In-Car Temperature Sensor Short
031--In-Car Temperature Sensor Open
040--Ambient Temperature Sensor Short
041--Ambient Temperature Sensor Open
050--Sunload Sensor Short

. Some heating and air conditioning control problems are solved just by running the self-test.

TxGreaseMonkey

26. Engine Misfires


Most common engine misfires can be solved by:

1. Replacing platinum spark plugs with the exact ones (same brand and part no.) that came in the vehicle and ensuring they are properly gapped. If the vehicle came with single platinum plugs, changing them to double or quadruple platinum plugs can cause misfires, particularly if the gap is different. Therefore, I recommend using single platinum plugs and changing them every 50,000 miles. On FWD V-6 engines, be sure to change the rear plugs, despite the hassle.

2. Applying dielectric grease to the spark plug's porcelein and electrode.

3. Changing coils and coil packs, if changing spark plugs did not solve the problem. Bench testing coils is not reliable, since most break down under load (heat). Therefore, be sure to change coils and coil packs every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. Apply dielectric grease to terminals.

4. Ensuring coil-on-plugs are squarely centered on the plug's electrode.

5. Changing spark plug wires every 80,000 miles. Regularly, wipe down plug wires with silicone spray, being very careful to keep it away from oxygen sensors.

6. Checking for intermittent codes that did not trigger the Check Engine Light.

7. Checking engine compression and looking for intake manifold leaks, in extreme cases.

8. The link below, provided by kitch428, covers a number of advanced techniques for diagnosing engine misfires:

Determining the missing elements in misfires - Misfires occur when the combustion process is incomplete, so you need to find what's missing. - Motor Age - Automotive training, certification & parts

TxGreaseMonkey

27. Temperature Gauge Problems

Background:

A temperature gauge is basically a voltage meter, controlled by the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Gauge Sending Unit. The ECT Gauge Sending Unit contains a thermistor (temperature sensitive resistor), which regulates the amount of voltage to the temperature gauge. Since resistance decreases with increasing temperature, it is a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor. It will vary between zero volts (Cold) and 12 volts (Hot), depending upon the temperature of the engine. For identification purposes, the ECT Gauge Sending Unit has a one-wire connector going to it, while the ECT Sensor, which goes to the ECM, has a two-wire connector.

Troubleshooting:

1. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post252145

2. Remove the ECT Gauge Sending Unit connector, clean terminal and connector with abrasive cloth, and turn the ignition switch to ON. The temperature gauge should bottom at Cold (0 volts). Next, ground the wire from the sending unit--the needle should go all the way to Hot (12 volts). If it does, the fuse, wiring, and temperature gauge are fine. You will likely, then, need to replace the ECT Gauge Sending Unit. If it doesn't, then you have a fuse, wiring, or temperature gauge problem. Indications that the ECT Gauge Sending Unit may be failing are a fluctuating temperature gauge needle (thermistor breaking down) or a needle that barely moves.

3. An alternative, and possibly safer, way to test the ECT Gauge Sending Unit is to disconnect the electrical connector and attach an ohmmeter between the sending unit terminal and engine ground. When cold, resistance should be around 275 ohms. As the engine warms up, sending unit resistance should drop; at full operating temperature, it should read 18 to 20 ohms.

TxGreaseMonkey

28. Toyoto to Begin Requiring 0W-20 Synthetic Engine Oil

Driven by increasingly stringent emission and fuel economy standards, Toyota has informed its dealers that the company will begin requiring SAE 0W-20 synthetic engine oils in new Toyota, Scion and Lexus vehicles over the next several years. Other OEMs are expected to follow suit by 2011. Among the benefits cited by Toyota are enhanced protection at high and low temperatures, improved fuel economy and reduced engine deposits. In addition, Toyota is reportedly studying increasing oil drain interval recommendations to 10,000 miles.

TxGreaseMonkey

15. How to Change Front and Rear Bulbs on a 2000 and Later Ford Taurus


Front:

1. Remove mounting bolt near the front grille (8 mm).

2. Pry up both retaining slides (look for two rubber-coated tabs), located on the rear of the headlight housing, with a screwdriver.

3. Pull the housing outward, disconnect the electrical connector from the headlamp bulb, and remove the housing from the vehicle.

4. Remove and replace the headlamp (Sylvania 9007) and amber turning signal (Sylvania 3357), after cleaning the connectors with WD-40.

5. Button things up.

6. Adjust headlamps with the vehicle parked level, gas tank half full, and nothing in the trunk.


Rear:

7. Remove parcel restraining web and tie-down, pull back trunk liner, and remove five nuts (11 mm) securing the tail light cover with a nut driver.

8. Remove and clean tail light cover.

9. Remove old bulbs--back up light (Sylvania 921) and tail light (Sylvania 3057). Spray and clean connectors with WD-40.

10. Snap in new bulbs, replace cover, and button things up.


Don't touch bulbs with your fingers because the oil from your skin could cause it to overheat and fail prematurely. This is particularly true of headlamp bulbs.