Check out these tips and explanations from our Cars & Trucks expert--the best car and truck guy on the net!

Of course, you're also welcome to post questions to this board for more information: Just click the "Ask about Cars & Trucks" button (NOT the Answer this Question button) at the top of the page. Be sure, though, to check the list below to see if your issue is already covered.

Members: Please do not post replies in this thread. If you have a question, click on the Ask About Cars & Trucks button above.

TxGreaseMonkey

15. How to Easily Change All Transmission Fluid and Filter


Example: Total Fill (13 quarts) - Initial Fill (7 quarts) = Balance (6 quarts)


1. Disconnect transmission return cooler line, at the radiator. Look for a 6 inch length of 5/16” I.D. neoprene hose, connecting the radiator (transmission cooler) to the transmission's metal return line. Place end of hose into an empty gallon jug.

2. Start engine and pump transmission fluid into jug, until you can hear it “slurp” in the transmission pan—the pan should now be empty. Turn engine off.

3. Drop and clean pan with brake cleaner. Remove and clean magnet, being sure to reinstall it in the same location. If you find what appears to be a child's toy top, discard it. It's a filler tube plug used to keep contamination out of the transmission during assembly. When the dip stick is inserted, at the factory, the plug is dislodged and remains on the bottom of the transmission pan. It is an indication the transmission fluid and filter have never been changed.

4. Remove and replace transmission filter, coating the O-ring with ATF.

5. Replace pan. If gasket is the reusable type, go ahead and reuse it.

6. Add Initial Fill of ATF through the filler tube (7 quarts).

7. Start engine and pump out half of Balance (3 quarts of ATF). Stop engine and add 3 more quarts of ATF.

8. Start engine and pump out the other half of Balance (3 quarts of ATF). Stop engine and add 3 quarts of ATF. The system should now have the Total Fill of ATF (13 quarts).

9. Replace dip stick, start engine, and, with the car level, move the gear selector through each gear (PRNDL), pausing 5 seconds in each gear. Warm car up to normal operating temperature, place car in (P)ark on a level surface, and check the dip stick with the engine running. Ensure fluid comes to the top of the “Full” line.

TxGreaseMonkey

22. Outer Tie-Rod End Replacement


This procedure is applicable to most cars and trucks.


1. Loosen lug nuts, raise vehicle, and support securely on jack stands. Remove front wheels.

2. Turn steering wheel all the way to the right (left), to remove the outer tie-rod end on the driver's (passenger's) side.

3. Attach pipe wrench (best), Channellock pliers, or Vise-Grips to the splined or grooved portion of the tie-rod. This will prevent damaging the inner tie-rod end.

4. Spray the jam nut with Kroil, Free All Deep Penetrating Oil, PB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench. Allow it to soak and spray it again. This nut can be very stubborn. Attach a large adjustable wrench, flare nut wrench (21 mm), or crowfoot wrench (21 mm) to break the jam nut loose. Major Trick: To get greater leverage with your existing wrench, slip a large deep socket over the wrench. Attach a 10-inch extension bar or breaker bar to the socket, for a handle. This takes the place of slipping a cheater pipe over the wrench. Now, you can do "serious damage." Some may need to use a torch.

5. Break loose the jam nut, by holding the pipe wrench with one hand and the lengthened adjustable, flare nut, or crowfoot wrench in the other.

6. Back-off completely the jam nut and mark the position of the outer tie-rod end. There are three methods: 1) mark the position with paint, 2) count the number of turns it takes to remove the outer tie-rod end from the tie-rod, and 3) measure the distance from a reference point (e.g., the edge of a completely backed off jam nut) to the center of the grease fitting, using a Vernier caliper. Method 3 (TxGreaseMonkey's preferred method) is a Trick, which may eliminate the need to have the car realigned (if it's done very precisely). Use all three methods and you'll see that Method 3 is unquestionably the best.

7. Remove and discard the cotter pin. Loosen the outer tie-rod end ballstud nut.

8. Separate the outer tie-rod end from the steering knuckle with a puller.

9. Remove the ballstud nut, detach the outer tie-rod end from the knuckle, and unscrew the outer tie-rod end from the tie-rod.

10. Install the new outer tie-rod end to the paint mark, number of turns it took to remove the outer tie-rod end, or reference point distance on the tie-rod.

11. Insert outer tie-rod ballstud into the steering knuckle and tighten the jam nut. Keep grease off the tapered section of the ballstud, since it will affect torque.

12. Install new ballstud nut and tighten 35 to 46 lb.-ft. Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening.

13. Install new cotter pin properly in a new castellated nut--one trimmed tang bent up and the other tang bent down and across the end of the ballstud.

14. Grease the outer tie-rod end with NLGI #2 synthetic grease; e.g., Mobil 1, Amsoil (GLC), or Valvoline SynPower.

15. Install wheel, lower vehicle, and torque each lug nut to 90 lb.-ft.

16. Decide whether to have the vehicle realigned.

TxGreaseMonkey

10. How to Replace Front Sway Bar Bushings on Ford Tauruses and Mercury Sables


1. Measure the diameter of the sway bar with a Vernier caliper. It needs to be exact; e.g., 13/16" or 20.5 mm. Sway bars come in many different diameters. If you don't have a Vernier caliper, use a strip of paper to carefully determine the sway bar's circumference. Then, use the formula Diameter = Circumference/3.1416.

2. Purchase a set of Energy Suspension Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings. I selected 9.5107R (non-greasable) for my 2000 Taurus, with a 20.5 mm diameter sway bar.

3. Place car on jack stands, located under the rocker panels. Remove both front wheels.

4. Place a floor jack under each side of the subframe.

5. Disconnect both sway bar links from the sway bar (Very important). If you don't, the old U-brackets will bind on the mounting bolts.

6. Lower the subframe 1 inch, by losening the rear 18 mm bolts.

7. Remove 13 mm bolts (4) mounting the U-bracket to the subframe.

8. Pull the sway bar out enough and use an air cut-off wheel to cut through the old U-brackets and bushings length-wise. They are incredibly tough--don't waste your time trying to use an air chisel. Then, pry off the old brackets.

9. Clean sway bar with brake cleaner and grease the mounting area with silicone grease (with Teflon) that comes with the bushings.

10. Coat inside of each bushing with silicone grease, spread the bushing (slit facing forward), and place over the sway bar.

11. Place new U-bracket over each bushing, install spacers under the front portion of the U-bracket, and tighten 13 mm mounting bolts (4) 25 lb.-ft.

12. Raise subframe with the floor jacks. Tighten subframe bolts 66 lb.-ft.

13. Attach lower portion of sway bar link to the sway bar. Tighten sway bar link nut (18 mm) 40 lb.-ft.

14. Mount front wheels and tighten lug nuts 90 lb.-ft.

15. Lower car and test drive. Handling should be dramatically better and quieter.

TxGreaseMonkey

3. Black Smoke

1. If a diesel smokes, under any conditions other than full throttle or high load, something is wrong. Generally, too much fuel is being injected. At idle, or normal operating conditions found in the midwest of the U.S. and Canada, diesels shouldn't smoke.

2. Check engine oil level--ensure it's filled to the top line and that the oil and filter have been recently changed. Since this often affects fuel pressure (Ford), begin by ensuring it's properly filled.

3. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

4. Check air filter--ensure it has been changed recently (every 5,000 miles).

5. Check fuel injectors. Leaking injectors create an overly rich air/fuel mixture and cause black smoke. Take the valve cover off and look at the exhaust part of the injector, when it is running. Each time the injector fires, you should see oil exhausting from it. If you see oil coming out, then the injector is good. When replacing a bad injector, take the glow plug out and crank the engine to get any oil out of the cylinder. If you don't, you could hydro-lock and bend a rod.

6. Check turbo for carbon build-up and bent turbine blades. This ties into exhaust restriction.

7. Purge fuel filter or fuel separator of water. Do this at least monthly--daily, if necessary. Water can be a big problem with diesels. Watch for and treat bio-organisms.

8. Look into a commercial diesel fuel additive, which is available at most large truck stops. Try and find one that is pure biodiesel, intended to be mixed in the tank at a B20 or less rate. Look for the words "naturally produced oil" or "biodiesel" on the side of the can listing ingredients. Properly mixed, it will reduce the amount of smoke an older, worn engine produces.

9. Once you isolate and fix the problem, use full-synthetic diesel heavy duty engine oil. Installing a by-pass oil filter makes using top-quality synthetics very cost effective, when integrated with a used oil analysis (UOA) program. All engines run better on synthetics, particularly turbo diesels. Besides significantly improved engine life, turbo life, performance, and gas mileage, synthetics promote easier starting, by allowing increased cranking speed. This last factor is particularly important in cold weather. Synthetics are also easier on batteries and starter motors. Anyone who has a turbo and doesn't use full-synthetic diesel HDEO is asking for trouble.

TxGreaseMonkey

4. Cavitation, SCA and Diesel Engine Cooling Systems


The presence of a few tiny bubbles, some so small that you need a microscope to see them, can destroy a diesel engine. Cavitation is a problem that has plagued diesel engine owners for years, which is the formation and collapse of air bubbles on the outside of the cylinder walls during combustion. It does not apply to dry-liner engines. Repeatedly, these air bubbles implode against the liner's surface. It erodes the cylinder liner, ultimately penetrating the combustion chamber and ruining the engine.

Cavitation is aggravated by vibration of the cylinder liner. Movement of the piston causes the liner to vibrate at a high frequency. When the liner vibrates, bubbles are formed in water passages next to the liner. These bubbles then implode against the cylinder liner. The implosion of the bubbles ultimately forms pinholes in the liner.

Understanding Cavitation

In elastic media, such as air and in most solids, there's a continuous transition as a sound wave is transmitted. In non-elastic media, such as water and in most liquids, there's continuous transition, as long as the amplitude or "loudness" of the sound wave is relatively low. As amplitude increases, however, the magnitude of the negative pressure in the areas of rarefaction (pockets of low pressure) becomes sufficient to cause the liquid to fracture, causing cavitation.

Cavitation bubbles are created at sites of low pressure, as the liquid fractures or tears, because of the negative pressure of sound waves in the liquid. As wave fronts pass, cavitation bubbles oscillate under the influence of positive pressure, eventually growing to an unstable size. Finally, the violent collapse of the cavitation bubbles results in implosions, causing shock waves to be radiated from the sites of the collapse. The collapse and implosion of many cavitation bubbles, throughout an ultrasonically activated liquid, results in an ultrasonic effect. Temperatures in excess of 10,000 degrees F., and pressures in excess of 10,000 psi, are generated as cavitation bubbles implode.

Effects on Engine

Air enters the system through leaks or through a faulty radiator cap. Leaks reduce cooling system pressure and increase the potential for bubbles to form in the coolant. These bubbles will eventually increase pitting. Water pump impellers and housings can be victims of cavitation, caused by low system pressure or by air trapped in the system. Cavitation can also damage radiators and heater cores.

Preventing Cavitation

Since cavitation cannot be completely prevented, Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) are necessary to provide a continuous protective coating on the metal surfaces of the cooling system. This coating aides in controlling and limiting engine damage.

The most important way to control cavitation damage is to keep the cooling system clean by periodically flushing it. Using distilled water, combined with flushing agents, will scrub the system of impurities, scale, or other build-up, allowing for a "second chance" when refilling with a 50/50 mixture of auto maker approved antifreeze and distilled water.

When servicing the cooling system, always check for leaks or faulty pressure caps. These conditions can cause air leaks, reduce operating pressure, and allow bubbles to form.

Add 8 to 10 ounces of SCA every 15,000 miles, testing it with Fleetguard strips every other month. Completely drain and refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of approved antifreeze and distilled water every 30,000 miles. Be sure to remove the hex-head drain plugs, located on each side of the engine block, after disconnecting the negative battery cable. This is a must on diesel engines. Cavitation must be taken very seriously.

TxGreaseMonkey

25. Product Rebates, Sales, and Promotions


1. $15.00 Rebate on Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic Engine Oil, Offer Expires 11/30/09:

http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/04...ine%20form.pdf

Comment: Makes using full-synthetics "dirt cheap." About $0.80 per quart, after rebate, for a 5 quart container at Wal-Mart.


2. Current AutoZone Promotions:

http://www.autozone.com/images/MEDIA...n_pdf_slot.pdf


3. Purolator PureOne Oil Filters on Sale:

Amazon.com: pureone oil filters

Comment: Very good premium filters, especially at these prices.


4. Autolite Spark Plug Rebate, Offer Expires 11/30/09:

http://www.autolite.com/rebate/pdf/spark-plug-09.pdf

Comment: Single Platinum and Copper Core Autolite plugs work best in Ford cars and trucks. Stay away from Double Platinums, because of misfire problems.


5. Up to $15 Rebate on Castrol Edge Synthetic Engine Oil, Offer Expires 12/15/09:

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp..._all_other.pdf


6. Up to $20 Rebate on Trico Wiper Blades, Offer Expires 11/30/09:

Trico - It’s Raining Rebates

TxGreaseMonkey

14. How to Remove and Install a Transmission Range Sensor (TRS)

The Neutral Safety Switch is part of the TRS.


Removal:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place gear selector in Neutral (N).
3. Remove air cleaner and air cleaner outlet tube, if necessary.
4. Disconnect TRS electrical connector.
5. Remove manual control lever from transaxle.
6. Remove TRS retaining bolts (2).
7. Remove TRS.

Installation:

1. Ensure gear selector is in Neutral (N).
2. Install TRS and loosely install both retaining bolts.
3. Align TRS slots using TRS Alignment Tool.
4. Tighten TRS retaining bolts 9 to 12 Nm (80 to 106 inch-lbs.) and remove tool.
5. Connect TRS electrical connector.
6. Install transaxle manual control lever--tighten 11 to 16 Nm (98 to 141 inch-lbs.).
7. Install air cleaner outlet tube and air cleaner.
8. Connect negative battery cable.
9. Check for proper operation with parking brake on. The engine should start only in Park (P) or Neutral (N).

TxGreaseMonkey

3. Charging System Troubleshooting

If warning lights (e.g., battery, ABS, SRS, or others) start appearing in concert with one another on the dash, immediately suspect the alternator.


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections (use battery terminal brush, No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool), apply dielectric grease, and tighten connections securely.

2. Check alternator wiring, clean alternator's "mega wire" connections (i.e., those going to the alternator and to the under hood fuse box), apply dielectric grease, and tighten connections securely.

3. Check drivebelt condition and tension.

4. Check alternator mounting bolts for looseness.

5. Run engine and check alternator for abnormal bearing noise.


If the problem persists:

6. Remove and fully charge the battery. This variable needs to be removed from the equation immediately, since the problem may be with the battery, the alternator, or both. Which is the cause and which is the effect? Most auto parts stores will charge batteries for free. Either have them do it or follow the steps below:

Disconnect the negative battery cable first, after recording any radio codes, and reconnect it last. It's never a good idea to try and charge a seriously discharged battery with the alternator, since it can burn the alternator out. Even new batteries should be placed on a battery charger, before installation. Here's how to properly charge a battery, which should always be completely removed from the vehicle.

How to Charge a Battery: While wearing safety goggles, remove battery caps, fill each cell to the ring with distilled water (if necessary), place a rag over the open cells, connect the red positive battery charger lead to the positive battery terminal, connect the black negative battery charger lead to the negative battery terminal, and plug the battery charger into an electrical outlet. Disconnect the charger from the electrical outlet (to prevent sparks), when the battery draws 2 amps or less. If the battery charger doesn't cut back to 2 amps, after being on for 6 hours, replace the battery.

WARNING: Explosive hydrogen gas is given off, while batteries are being charged. Therefore, no sparks or smoking are allowed. Always wear safety goggles, when working around batteries.


Most auto parts stores will test alternators for free. Either have them do it or follow the steps below:

7. Check battery voltage with the engine off--it should be approximately 12 to 12.5 volts. Attach the red test lead, from your multimeter, to the Positive (+) battery terminal and the black test lead to the Negative (-) battery terminal.

8. Check regulated battery voltage with the engine running--it should be approximately 14 to 15 volts. Attach your multimeter the same way as in Step 7.

9. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter, if the voltage reading is less than specified:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post252145

If the battery and fuses are good, the voltage regulator is suspect. Replace the alternator or rebuild it yourself:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post666293

If the bearings are good, cleaning the slip rings and replacing the brushes will solve many alternator-related problems. The erratic symptoms can mimic a bad voltage regulator. On many American cars, the external voltage regulator and brush holder assembly is very easy to replace.

10. Ensure a battery cover is placed over the battery, to reduce the effects of under hood heat on battery operation and water loss.

TxGreaseMonkey

2. Diesel Smoke Summary: Black, White, and Blue


Exhaust gases from a diesel engine should be colorless. Smoke of any color is a clue that it’s not running properly. Here’s what exhaust smoke tells you:

• Black smoke is a sign of engine overload, restricted air supply, or malfunctioning injector. For some reason, excess unburned fuel is being blown out the exhaust. Black smoke is usually a signal that there's too much fuel, not enough air, or injector pump timing is off. One of the most common causes of this condition is an air inlet restriction. The cause may be a dirty air filter, a collapsed intake hose, or an exhaust restriction.

• White smoke is a sign of water vapor or fuel that has been atomized, but not burned. Water vapor may be present in the fuel, or water may be leaking into the cylinders from the cooling system. Also, air in the fuel can cause white smoke. White smoke usually occurs when there is not enough heat to burn the fuel. The unburned fuel particles go out the tailpipe and typically produce a rich fuel smell. It's not unusual to see white smoke in the exhaust, during cold weather, until the engine warms up. Bad glow plugs (burned out, coated with carbon, or not receiving proper start-up voltage) or a faulty glow plug control module can cause white smoke on engine start up. Low engine cranking speed may also produce white smoke. If white smoke is visible after the engine has warmed up, the engine may have one or more bad injectors, retarded injection timing, or worn injection pump. Low compression can also be a source of white smoke.

• Blue smoke forms when the engine’s lubricating oil is being burned, indicating worn piston rings, valve guides, or seals. Also, the oil can come from an air filter overfilled with oil or an overfilled crankcase.

TxGreaseMonkey

5. Diesel Fuel and Cold Weather


Wax, naturally found in diesel fuel, begins to form crystals, as the temperature drops. The cloud point is the point at which crystals form. Eventually, crystals clog the fuel filter and starve the engine of fuel or prevent it from starting.

Traditionally, one solution is to use #1 diesel fuel, which is diesel fuel diluted with kerosene. There are several disadvantages with using #1 diesel fuel, despite its advantage in low-temperature operations. First, the energy content is about 95% of #2 diesel fuel, resulting in less horsepower and reduced fuel economy. Second, the kerosene used in #1 diesel fuel provides less lubrication for the fuel distributor and fuel pump, increasing the likelihood for wear.

There are products on the market, such as Amsoil Diesel Recovery, that dissolve the wax crystals that form when diesel fuel has surpassed its cloud point. It will liquify gelled diesel fuel and thaw frozen fuel filters. Since diesel fuel quality varies wildly from one filling station to another, low-quality fuel can have cloud points as high as 40 degrees F.

Check these type of products out. They can reduce the cold filter-plugging point (CFPP) by up to 34 degrees F, in ultra-low-sulfur diesel fuel (ULSD), and up to 17 degrees F, in biodiesel. They also lower the fuel's pour point. Emergency diesel fuel treatments may help you avoid a costly towing charge.