Check out these tips and explanations from our Cars & Trucks Expert; the best Cars and Trucks guy on the net!

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txgreasemonkey

WW. Changing Manual Transmission Fluid

Check fluid level with engine OFF and car on level ground

1. Warm engine to normal operating temperature.

2. Remove oil filler plug, using a 17 mm box-end wrench.

3. Remove drain plug, using a 3/8-inch ratchet wrench, and drain oil into a suitable pan.

4. Reinstall drain plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.0 kg-m (29 lb-ft).

5. Add 1.8 liter (1.9 qt) of manual synchromesh transmission fluid, such as Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF), using a long-neck, transmission funnel. Alternatives are to add tubing to an existing funnel or use a pump. The oil level must be up to the filler hole.

6. Reinstall oil filler plug (using a new aluminum crush washer) and torque to 4.5 kg-m (33 lb-ft).

7. Update Maintenance Log.

No longer use 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil as manual transmission oil. Present engine oil formulations can damage the yellow metals in the synchros. Change every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first

txgreasemonkey

XX. Repacking Idler Pulley Bearings

Below is generic information for most modern-day vehicles:

Serpentine belt tension is set by the tensioner assembly, which consists of the spring tensioner and an idler pulley. Ideally, the tensioner assembly should be replaced when the serpentine belt is changed. In many cases, this is not the most cost-effective solution. Most people will replace the idler pulley, which costs about 25% of what the tensioner assembly costs. For the more frugal, or more performance-oriented individual, repacking the idler pulley bearing is an option. Since space is normally tight on this side of the engine, access may be improved by moving the power steering reservoir aside or by removing the appropriate wheel and plastic wheel-well liner. Here's how to repack the bearing:

1. Remove idler pulley from tensioner, normally by using a 15 mm combination wrench.
2. Examine old bearing and ensure it's serviceable.
3. Remove bearing grease seals, using a small screwdriver, and soak bearing and pulley in kerosene. Ensure bearing is clean of all old grease and dirt.
4. Inspect ball bearings, cage, and race for any signs of damage.
5. Allow bearing to dry. Compressed air can be used but don't try to spin the bearing or it could be damaged.
6. Pack bearing with grease, thoroughly forcing grease into all crevices of the bearing. Approximately 25% of the inside space of the bearing should be filled with grease. I recommend using either Mobil 1 Synthetic Universal Grease, NLGI #2, or Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease, NLGI #2.
7. Remove excess grease and replace both grease seals.
8. Button things up.

The bearing should now be as good as, or better than, new. Goodyear recommends tightening the 15 mm mounting bolt 35 to 40 lb.-ft., on a standard NTN 6203 bearing, with a 17 mm inside diameter. This common bearing is frequently referred to as a "203" bearing.

It's not uncommon for the engine to now run quieter than ever before.

txgreasemonkey

YY. Rebuilding Alternators

It's assumed there are no problems with the voltage regulator, rectifier (diodes), or stator.

Many alternators can be rebuilt for less than $20, by replacing bearings, cleaning slip rings, and replacing brushes. Here's how to do it for the Mitsubishi Type alternator, the most common alternator on Hondas.

1. Bearings. If bearings need replacement, it is necessary to separate pulley, drive-end housing, and rotor.

A. Loosen locknut to remove pulley from rotor, by using a 22 mm box-end wrench or, if necessary, an impact wrench.

B. Remove four through-bolts.

C. Heat rear-bearing seat with a heat gun for several minutes (122-140 degrees F, 50-60 degrees C).

D. Separate rear-housing from drive-end housing, by inserting a flat-tip screwdriver into the opening and prying them apart. Take care not to damage stator with screwdriver.

E. Separate rear-housing from stator/rectifier assembly, by removing four screws and terminal nut.

F. Pull off rear bearing. Ensure bearing puller jaws are thin enough to fit between bearing and slip rings. Do not reuse the bearing. Upon reassembly, use a hand press to install the new bearing. Apply pressure only on inner race, to avoid bearing damage.

G. Remove front bearing. Unfasten bearing retainer, remove old bearing, install new bearing, and refasten bearing retainer.

Important Note: Alternator bearings normally use polyurea grease (dielectric), to prevent fire in case of seepage.

2. Rotor Slip Rings. Clean slip rings with 240-grit abrasive cloth. Caution: Do not get grease or oil on slip rings.

A. Check for continuity between slip rings.

B. Check for no continuity between slip rings and rotor or rotor shaft.

If rotor fails either continuity check, replace alternator.

3. Alternator Brush Inspection. Caution: When replacing brushes, only use rosin core solder; otherwise, solder joints will corrode.

A. Separate drive-end housing from rear-housing, as in Section 1 above.

B. Separate rear-housing from stator/rectifier assembly by removing four screws and terminal nut from rear-housing.

C. Measure length of brushes with a vernier caliper.

Alternator Brush Length:
Standard 19.0 mm (0.75 in.)
Service Limit: 5.0 mm (0.20 in.)

If brushes are not within service limit, use a soldering iron and replace them. Use a pair of needle nose pliers as a heat sink, when unsoldering regulator/brush holder assembly. Don't apply heat for more than five seconds.

D. Push brushes in. Then insert a pin or drill bit (about 1.8 mm diameter) to hold them there.

E. Heat rear-bearing seat in rear-housing, as described above. After heating, assemble immediately, before rear-bearing seat cools completely.

F. Put rear-housing/stator assembly and drive-end housing/rotor assembly together, tighten four through-bolts, pull out pin, and plug brush access hole.

After assembling alternator, turn pulley by hand to ensure rotor rotates smoothly and without noise. The pulley locknut should be tightened to 81 lb.-ft. (11.2 kg-m).

txgreasemonkey

ZZ. CV Driveshaft: Inspection

The following generic information applies to all FWD cars.

1. Driveshaft Boot. Check boots on each driveshaft for damage, cracks, leaking grease, or loose bands. Replace boots and bands, if damage is found. Try to do this at each oil change. Regular inspection may save a CV joint from replacement, allowing it to be repacked instead. Look for grease being flung all over the caliper, tire, and wheel. Don't be afraid to apply pressure to the boots and thoroughly examine them.

2. Twists or Cracks. Ensure driveshaft is not twisted or cracked. Even though this is unusual, it does happen. Replace driveshaft, if necessary.

3. Spline Looseness. Rotate driveshaft, by hand, and ensure spline and joint are not too loose. Replace inboard joint, if damage is discovered.

txgreasemonkey

AAA. CV Driveshaft: Removal

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Raise front of car and support on jack stands.

2. Remove lug nuts and front wheels.

3. Drain transaxle fluid. Often, this is unnecessary.

4. Raise locking tab on spindle nut and remove nut.

5. Remove damper fork nut, bolt, and damper pinch bolt. Replace damper pinch bolts, if you can easily thread a non-self-locking nut past their nylon locking inserts.

6. Remove damper fork.

7. Remove cotter pin from lower arm ball-joint castle nut and remove nut.

8. Install 12 mm hex nut on ball-joint. Ensure hex nut is flush with ball-joint's pin end; otherwise, the threaded section of ball-joint pin might be damaged by ball-joint remover.

9. Remove ball-joint, using a ball-joint remover, from lower arm. Ensure ball-joint boot is not damaged. Apply Kroil or PB Blaster, if necessary, to loosen ball-joint.

10. Pull knuckle outward and remove driveshafts's outboard joint from front wheel hub, by using a plastic mallot.

11. Pry driveshaft assembly, using a large screwdriver, from transaxle. This will force the set ring, at the driveshaft's end, past the groove.

12. Pull inboard joint and remove driveshaft from transaxle. Be careful not to pull on the driveshaft, as the inboard joint may come apart. To avoid damaging the differential oil seal, use care prying the assembly out. Be sure to pull it straight.

txgreasemonkey

BBB. CV Driveshaft: Disassembly

The following information is Honda specific. Honda does not recommend disassembling the outboard joint.

1. Clamp driveshaft in a vise with soft jaws.

2. Remove set ring from inboard joint.

3. Remove boot band, by prying up locking tabs with a screwdriver and raise end of band. If the boot band is the welded type, cut it off. Be careful not to damage the boot.

4. Mark each roller and inboard joint, to identify locations of rollers and grooves in the inboard joint.

5. Remove the inboard joint from the vise and place it on a shop towel on top of the workbench. Be careful not to drop the rollers, when separating them from the inboard joint. Examine splines for wear or other damage, check inside bore for wear, and look for any cracks.

6. Mark rollers and spider, to identify locations of rollers on spider.

7. Remove rollers and circlip.

8. Mark spider and driveshaft, to identify position of spider on shaft.

9. Remove spider with a bearing puller.

10. Remove stopper ring.

11. Wrap driveshaft splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.

12. Remove boot band and inboard boot.

13. Remove dynamic damper band and dynamic damper.

14. Remove outboard boot bands, boot, and vinyl tape.

15. Inspect outboard joint for cracking, splitting, wear, and faulty movement. If any roughness or excess play is felt, replace the outboard joint.

16. Check outboard ring for damage.

txgreasemonkey

CCC. CV Driveshaft: Repacking and Reassembly

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Wrap splines with vinyl tape, to prevent damage to boots and dynamic damper.

2. Install outboard boot, dynamic damper, and inboard boot to driveshaft. Remove vinyl tape.

3. Install stopper ring into driveshaft groove. Rotate stopper ring in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.

4. Install spider on driveshaft, by aligning marks on spider and end of driveshaft.

5. Fit circlip into driveshaft groove. Rotate circlip in its groove, to ensure it's fully seated.

6. Pack outboard joint with joint grease included in the new driveshaft set (90 to 100 gm or 3.2 to 3.5 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle.

7. Fit rollers to spider, with high shoulders facing outward. Reinstall rollers in their original positions on spider, by aligning the marks. Hold driveshaft pointed up, to prevent spider and rollers from falling off.

8. Pack inboard joint and inboard boot with joint grease included in new driveshaft set (120 to 130 gm or 4.2 to 4.6 oz.). Amounts may vary with vehicle.

9. Fit inboard joint onto driveshaft. Reinstall inboard joint onto driveshaft, by aligning marks on inboard joint and rollers. Hold driveshaft assembly pointed up, to prevent inboard joint from falling off.

10. Adjust length of driveshafts to specs, then adjust boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. The ends of boots seat in groove of driveshaft and joint.

11. Install new boot bands on boots and bend both sets of locking tabs.

12. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.

13. Position dynamic damper as shown below. Install new dynamic damper band and bend down both sets of locking tabs. Lightly tap on doubled-over tab portions, to reduce height.

Left: 75 +/- 2 mm (3.0 +/- .1 in.)
Right: 55 +/- 2 mm (2.2 +/- .1 in.)

Note: These representative figures may vary, depending on the car. Therefore, check the specs for your vehicle.

14. Install new set ring onto driveshaft or intermediate shaft groove.

txgreasemonkey

DDD. CV Driveshaft: Installation

The following information is Honda specific.

1. Install outboard joint in knuckle; then, loosely install a new spindle nut.

2. Insert inboard end of driveshaft into differential, until set ring locks in groove. Ensure inboard joint bottoms into differential and that set ring locks into groove of side gear.

3. Install damper fork over driveshaft and onto lower arm. Install damper in damper fork, so aligning tab is aligned with the slot in damper fork.

4. Loosely install damper pinch bolt, and a new damper fork nut with the bolt. The bolts and nut should be tightened with vehicle's weight on the damper. See Step 8, below.

5. Install knuckle on lower arm. Tighten castle nut (50 to 60 N-m or 36 to 43 lb-ft) and install a new cotter pin. Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification; then, tighten it only far enough to align slot with pin hole. Do not align nut by loosening.

6. Tighten new spindle nut (185 N-m or 134 lb-ft). After tightening, use a drift to stake spindle nut shoulder against driveshaft.

7. Install front wheels (110 N-m or 80 lb-ft).

8. Tighten damper pinch bolt and new damper fork nut. Tighten damper pinch bolt to 44 N-m or 32 lb-ft. Tighten damper fork nut to 65 N-m or 47 lb-ft.

9. Refill transaxle, if necessary, with recommended fluid.

10. Check front wheel alighment and adjust, if necessary.

txgreasemonkey

EEE. PCV Valve Replacement

Perform every 60,000 miles or 4 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect PCV Valve hose from throttle body, using a pair of pliers to remove spring clamp.

2. Remove PCV Valve and hose from intake manifold.

3. Disconnect PCV Valve from hose, using a pair of pliers to remove the other spring clamp. Using a spray can of brake cleaner, with the "straw" attached, spray inside of hose. This will remove any residual sludge, dirt, and sand. Take a pipe cleaner, dipped in fuel injector cleaner, and clean the port on the throttle body.

4. Install cleaned hose to a new PCV Valve and button everything up.

This will help your engine idle and perform better, last longer, and reduce emissions. Synthetic oils, with their lower NOACK Volatility (evaporation due to heat) characteristics, greatly reduce PCV Valve and hose contamination.

txgreasemonkey

FFF. Service Check Connector

When the Check Engine Light (CEL) is on, it will be necessary to locate the 2-pin Service Check Connector (SCC) on OBD-I (pre-1996) Hondas. It is normally located under the dash, approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the right kick panel. Take a small screwdriver and carefully pry it from the rubber mount. The other 3-pin connector in the rubber mount is the Data Link Connector (DLC), which should be left alone. Jump the SCC with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and count the number of times, if any, the CEL flashes. Reference a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) chart to identify the code being displayed. The SCC is also jumped, when an induction timing light is used to check engine timing.

After troubleshooting, turn the ignition switch OFF, remove the jumper wire, and reset the ECM, by removing the BACK UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse box for 10 seconds. Disconnecting the BACK UP fuse cancels preset radio stations and the clock setting; therefore, they will need to be reset.