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FAQ: How to Troubleshoot, Repair & Maintain Hondas
Check out these tips and explanations from our Cars & Trucks Expert; the best Cars and Trucks guy on the net!
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. 92, 93, 94, and 95--Left of fuse box, wedged against left kick panel and above hood latch. Remove fuse box cover and lower dash panel for access.
. 96, 97, 98, 99, and 00--Right of glove box, along wall of right kick panel.
Accord:
. 86, 87, 88, and 89--Left kick panel, just above hood release.
. 90, 91, 92, and 93--Under dash, left of steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed).
. 94--Right of steering column.
. 98, 99, 00, and 01--Left of steering column.
Turning ignition key on and off will help you locate the main relay, by allowing you to hear and feel it "click." Main relays often have 7 wires going to them.
. Spark Plug Wires. Insulating rubber can begin to breakdown around 6 years, allowing moisture to seep into microscopic cracks in the rubber and provide a leak path for the current, prior to reaching the plugs. Electricity finds the shortest path to ground and moisture can allow secondary or high tension voltage to discharge somewhere besides the plugs. It's a good idea to clean and spray spark plug wires and boots with silicone, which is a dielectric and will also help seal and protect the rubber from ozone. Problems involving old wires normally show up in wet or humid weather.
Here's how to diagnose problems. On a dry day, warm engine up to normal operating temperature and spray spark plug wires with water from a spray bottle. Note any changes in engine rpm. If idle speed drops, the wires are bad. On a wet day, in which the car won't start or starts hard, dry the wires with a paper towel and spray with WD-40, which displaces moisture. If the car starts, the wires are bad and should be replaced.
. Distributor Cap. Moisture can develop inside the distributor cap. Make sure to use a ventilated cap with a good O-ring. It's important for the O-ring to seal properly between the cap and housing. Coat the O-ring with silicone grease. If moisture has developed, dry the inside of the cap with a paper towel and spray with WD-40, wiping off the excess.
. Dielectric Compound. An excellent product to have on hand is Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3-A). It's available at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer. It's amazing the number of applications this product can be used for; e.g., lubricating O-rings, rubber gaskets, disk brake caliper pins, plus using it as a dielectric compound for weatherizing battery and starter terminals and cables, main grounds, main ECM ground, ECM connectors, igniters, coils, spark plug connectors, coating spark plug porcelein, and tail and brake lights. Obviously, this product helps prevent wet starting problems in seemingly small, but significant, ways. Attention to detail makes a big difference when operating in wet, humid conditions--especially around salt air.
PP. Automatic Transmission Fluid and Filter Changes: TxGreaseMonkey's Recommended Way
1. Obtain proper transmission fluid and filter for your vehicle (some vehicles don't have filters). I recommend you use a full-synthetic ATF (e.g., Mobil 1 Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF or Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF), provided it meets the manufacturer's specifications for your vehicle. Transmissions run cooler (because of the higher coefficient of heat), perform better, last longer, and get better gas mileage with synthetic ATF. This is cheap insurance for protecting the most complex and problematic part of your car. Do it to save money, in the long run, and protect yourself from the big unexpected transmission repair bill. Synthetic ATF offers a "margin of safety" we all need.
2. Transmission fluid should be at normal operating temperature, before draining.
3. Turn engine off and position drain pan under transmission pan and drain fluid by loosening pan bolts. Loosen one corner more than others to direct flow into drain pan.
4. Remove all transmission pan bolts and lower pan carefully.
5. Remove old filter. Some filters are held in place by a bolt or two; however, some are held by a clip. Ensure filter O-rings or seals are removed with the filter. It may be necessary, on some vehicles, to pry out the old filter seal from the transmission housing, being careful not to nick or gouge the seal mating surface.
6. Install new filter using the same bolts or clips. Use new O-ring or seal supplied with the filter.
7. Inspect pan carefully before cleaning. Small amounts of fine gray clutch dust are normal; however, if you find metal shavings, there could be transmission damage or mechanical problems.
8. Clean transmission pan thoroughly with solvent (e.g., brake cleaner) and wipe dry, so there is no harmful residue. If there's a magnet, it should be cleaned and replaced in the same position in the pan. Clean transmission and transmission pan mating surfaces of all gasket material, being careful not to damage the surfaces. If the transmission didn't come with a drain plug, I recommend installing a B&M Transmission Drain Plug in the pan at this time. It makes subsequent changes a snap. Carefully choose a location for drilling a 1/2" hole for the plug. Some manufacturers emboss a "0" where the hole should be drilled. Install drain plug, nylon washer, nut, and torque to 20 ft.-lbs.
9. Position gasket on the pan. Some gaskets have four slightly smaller holes, to allow four bolts to hold the gasket in place.
10. Hand-tighten transmission bolts in a crisscross pattern until snug. Use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper torque.
11. Refill transmission through the dipstick, using the amount shown as "refill capacity" in the owner's manual.
12. If only changing transmission pan fluid, skip to Step 14.
13. To also change the fluid in the torque converter, follow the 5 steps below:
a. Obtain total transmission fluid capacity from the manufacturer and have that amount of ATF available.
b. Place a drain pan large enough to hold the total fluid capacity under the oil cooler. Disconnect old cooler line from oil cooler and direct lines toward drain pan.
c. With help of another person, be prepared to add ATF to the transmission fill hole, at the approximate rate fluid is being pumped out the transmission line into the drain pan.
d. Start engine and, as the old fluid is pumped out, pour fresh fluid in the transmission fill hole.
e. When the fluid color brightens, or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and reattach oil cooler lines. All fluid in the pan and torque converter has now been changed.
14. With vehicle on level ground, recheck the fluid level, using procedures outlined in the owner's manual. This frequently involves starting the engine and pausing several seconds in each gear, as the gear selector is run through the complete gear range (PRNDL). Check the transmission and lines for leaks. The final fluid level check is usually made after transmission reaches normal operating temperature, engine is running, and transmission is in Park.
The generic information below is for all vehicles with serpentine belts.
1. Routing diagram. Before removing the serpentine belt, ensure you have a routing diagram. It's often located on the fan shroud. Sketch your own, if necessary.
2. Belt removal. Using a suitable serpentine belt tool, attach tool to spring tensioner and rotate in the appropriate direction to relieve belt tension. In order to get the necessary leverage, the tool may need to be at least 15 inches long; e.g., a flexible "T" wrench or breaker bar. Many auto parts stores loan specialized serpentine belt tools for free. With one hand, relieve belt tension; with the other hand, remove belt from auxiliary components. Afterwards, carefully release tensioner.
3. Tensioner and pulley removal. Unfasten bolt securing tensioner to engine block--on some vehicles, this step is unnecessary, depending upon whether pulley bolt is accessible or not. Next, unfasten bolt securing pulley to tensioner. Install new pulley/bearing (tighten 15 to 22 ft.-lbs.) and button up.
4. Belt replacement. Route new belt over various pulleys, again rotating tensioner to allow belt to be installed, then release belt tensioner. Ensure belt fits properly into pulley grooves. It must be completely engaged. On some vehicles, where space is particularly tight, use a 1/4" x 30" dowel to route belt over pulleys.
Serpentine drive belts are durable, long-lived components. Small cracks in the underside of a v-ribbed belt are acceptable. Lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces that cause the belt to make noise, are cause for replacement. Normally, I recommend belt and pulley replacement every 80,000 miles or 7 years, whichever comes first.
Adjust headlights to local requirements, by turning its adjusters. Use a small flashlight to locate the horizontal and vertical adjusting points, which are gear mechanisms. Frequently, there's a slotted hole in the frame, going to the horizontal adjusting point, and a round hole in the frame, going to the vertical adjusting point. Use a #2 Phillips head screwdriver to rotate adjusters.
Remove old plugs when the engine is "stone" cold, to decrease the chance of stripping the aluminum head.
Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench, 6-inch quick-release extension bar (helps prevent socket from pulling off extension bar in the spark plug tube), and 5/8-inch spark plug socket. Spray the rubber insert in the spark plug socket with silicone spray, to further help prevent the socket from pulling off the extension bar in the spark plug tube. If you don't take these precautionary steps, the simple task of changing spark plugs can become frustrating.
1. Remove the spark plug wire from the first plug. Carefully, remove the old spark plug. Check the gap of the new plug. I only recommend NGK spark plugs for Hondas--my experience with cross-referenced plugs has not been good. Normally, it's best to use the exact plug that came in the car. For hotter climates, use the next colder plug. Apply a thin coating of dielectric grease to the porcelain and terminal of the new plug. Likewise, apply a half pea-size drop of anti-seize compound (preferably high-temperature nickel) to the lower threads, allowing rotation to spread the compound. If too much is used, plugs will "coke" in the holes. Insert spark plug in socket; attach extension bar; insert plug in hole; and tighten finger-tight, being careful not to cross-thread the plug. Some mechanics prefer to insert the plug into a 6-inch length of 3/8-inch I.D. neoprene hose, to prevent cross-threading the plug. Attach socket wrench and gently tighten the plug. Finally, use an inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the plug to the specified torque. Since anti-seize compound is a lubricant, reduce specified torque by 20% to prevent over-torquing and stripping threads.
2. Apply dielectric grease to the inside terminal of the spark plug wire, wipe wire down with silicone spray, reattach wire, and move on to the next plug.
3. Update Maintenance Log.
Change regular plugs every 24,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first. Change platinum plugs every 50,000 miles. Be careful not to leave platinum plugs in for more than 3 years or they may seize in the aluminum head. It's better to remove and reinstall them periodically.
Always change engine oil, when the engine is hot. This allows a faster, more complete drain. If you change the oil when the engine is cold, dirt will cling to the sides of the block and pan.
1. Remove engine oil dip stick and filler cap, to facilitate draining and to prevent PCV valve contamination.
2. Place car on jack stands.
3. Place drain pan under car and remove oil filter, using a cap wrench and 3/8-inch ratchet wrench or a strap wrench.
4. Fill oil filter with engine oil, install filter, and torque to 16 ft.-lbs, using a cap wrench. Since most engine wear takes place at start up, filling the oil filter with oil prevents a "dry start." I recommend using premium oil filters. Premium oil filters have a red silicone rubber anti-drain back valve that makes a real difference in not allowing the oil to drain from horizontally-mounted oil filters overnight. This provides much quieter valves at startup. These new premium filters (e.g., PureOne, Amsoil Ea, and Mobil 1 EP) are worth the money, in my opinion. Filtration is rightfully the new "big thing" in lubrication.
5. Place drain pan under oil pan and, using a 17 mm box-end wrench, remove oil drain plug. When draining is complete, install drain plug hand-tight and torque to 33 ft.-lbs.
6. Lower car from jack stands.
7. Add recommend amount of approved weight engine oil to oil filler hole, using a funnel. I recommend buying the best full-synthetic lubricants available. I focus on European oil standards and buy engine oil that is both ACEA A3-rated and MB 229.3 or MB 229.5-rated for my vehicles. These are the toughest engine oil specifications in the world I'm aware of.
8. Replace oil dip stick and filler cap.
9. Start car and check for leaks. Ensure car is not overfilled with oil.
10. Update Maintenance Log--record "Date, Mileage, and Work Performed." Refer to it often. I use Microsoft Word and keep a Maintenance Log for each of my vehicles in my PC--it's incredibly handy and facilitates staying on top of maintenance.
Do your part to keep the air we breath clean, conserve oil and gasoline, and reduce global warming by using synthetic lubricants.
Failure to regularly change brake fluid is one of the most overlooked preventive maintenance items--however, it's one of the most important. Year-after-year, surveys show that brake failure is the No. 1 automotive failure motorists fear most. Your life, and those of others, depends on your brakes working properly at all times. Most foreign car manufacturers recommend changing brake fluid every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first. Most domestic car manufacturers say nothing about this matter and lead motorists to assume it's safe to leave the fluid in for life. Recent scientific research on the role of copper ions (from brazing inside brake pipes), their link to corrosion, and what it portends for anti-lock braking systems, is changing Detroit's position on this matter.
As a lucky survivor of a car that had catastrophic brake failure, due to vapor lock, coming down the mountains in Yosemite National Park, California, I change my brake fluid at least every 24 months. Braking converts kinetic energy into heat. Vapor lock comes about when this heat is transferred from the disc/drum brakes to the calipers or wheel cylinders. If the brake fluid is laden with moisture, which naturally happens over time since it's hygroscopic, it can be converted into water vapor (gas), during heavy braking. This can happen in less than 2 years, even if you don't live in a real humid climate. Fluids are not compressible, gases are. The result is that the brake pedal goes to the floor. With brake fluid, the important number, for street vehicles, is the wet boiling point. This is the temperature the fluid boils at, when it contains 3% moisture. Track cars are interested in a high dry boiling point, since they change or bleed-off brake fluid after every race. I recommend ATE TYP 200 and Valvoline SynPower Brake Fluid for most applications. These are superior products, not too expensive, and have very good wet boiling points. Discard any opened and resealed container of brake fluid after 6 months. This is not a product you want to keep a lot of--it's best to buy as needed.
Brake fluid should also be regularly changed to replace the anti-corrosion and lubricity additives in the fluid. Failure to do so can result in brake pipe failure and can severely damage modern-day anti-lock brake systems. With ABS braking systems, be sure to use an "ABS Approved Fluid." Regular brake fluid is too viscous and generates too much heat, as it circulates through the system. If corrosion develops in an anti-lock braking system, the resulting bill can be several thousand dollars. Brake fluid should also be regularly changed to eliminate moisture, air, rust, and soft rubber debris that contaminates the fluid. This helps calipers and wheel cylinders last much longer and helps motorists avoid the big, unexpected brake repair bill.
Brakes
1. Clean the master cylinder reservoir. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and, using a battery squeeze bulb, remove a safe amount of the old brake fluid. Refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, to the "MAX" line, and replace the cap.
2. Brakes are normally bled in this order: RR, LF, LR, and RF. Spray the RR bleeder screw with WD-40 (Kroil or PB Blaster, if corroded), brake the bleeder screw loose with a socket or small box-end wrench, attach a one-man brake bleeder hose, open the bleeder screw, and gently pump the brake pedal with your hand 10 to 12 times. Pump the old fluid into an empty plastic bottle. [I use the fool-proof Brake Bleeder Economy One-Man, Cal-Van Tools, No. 247, brake bleeder for hydraulic brakes and clutches. It cost $2.99 and has a one-way check valve built into it.] Tighten the bleeder screw and move on to the LF wheel. The only difference, here, is that the brake pedal only needs to be pumped 8 to 10 times. One quart of fluid is sufficient to do most vehicles. Finish the other two wheels and the job is almost done. Be sure to check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir, after bleeding each wheel. From start to finish, this job takes one person about 45 minutes. With two people, it goes much faster.
3. Pump the brakes a number of times, in order to get that "solid" pedal feel. Start the car and take it for a test drive. For vehicles with anti-lock brake systems, there is one more important step. On a safe street, apply the brakes hard enough to engage the ABS. You will hear it pulsate, when it is done properly. What this does is replace the brake fluid in the ABS reservoir and help prevent corrosion from developing.
Important Note: Substantial benefits accrue to you, even if you only replace a major portion of the fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir, using a battery squeeze bulb or "turkey baster," and don't bleed the brake lines. This is particularly true on anti-lock brake systems and is a function of the dispersal nature of glycol ether, the base material of most brake fluids
Hydraulic Clutch
The procedure is the same as above, except the one-man bleeder is attached to the bleeder screw on the clutch slave unit. Be extremely careful not to use the battery squeeze bulb and suck the fluid down too far in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. If you do, air in the system can be very difficult to remove. Likewise, keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir--don't let it go down too far. When you're done, tighten the bleeder screw, fill the reservoir to the "MAX" line (be sure not to overfill) with brake fluid, and operate the clutch to ensure it works properly. A leading cause of hydraulic clutch failure is overfilling the reservoir.
I'm not a fan of most pressure bleeders, because they force air and moisture into the new fluid, the very contaminants you're trying to avoid.
Only use Honda Genuine HG Power Steering Fluid, Part No. 08206-9002. Using other fluids, such as ATF or other manufacturer's power steering fluid, will damage the system.
1. Raise reservoir and disconnect hose going to oil cooler.
2. Connect a suitable diameter hose to disconnected hose going to oil cooler; place other end of hose in a large, plastic jug.
3. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to purge all old fluid and crud. When fluid stops running out of hose, shut engine off and discard fluid.
4. Reinstall return hose on reservoir.
5. Fill reservoir to upper level line.
6. Start engine, let it idle, and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock several times, to bleed air from system.
7. Recheck fluid level and add, if necessary.
8. Update Maintenace Log.
I recommend changing power steering fluid every 75,000 miles, due to the high expense associated with replacing pump, gearbox and valve body unit. More heat is developed in power steering units than most people realize.
Linear Mode
