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txgreasemonkey

H. Honda Civic Ignition Switch Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
3. Disconnect 5-P connector from under-dash fuse box and 7-P connector from main wire harness.
4. Remove steering column covers.
5. Insert key and turn it to "0".
6. Remove two screws from switch and replace.

txgreasemonkey

G. Honda Civic Headlight Replacement

1. Remove front turn signal/parking lights.
2. Remove front bumper.
3. Remove mounting bolts and nuts, remove headlight, and disconnect connector.
4. After replacement, adjust headlights to local requirements.

txgreasemonkey

F. Honda Civic Fuel Filter Replacement

The fuel filter should be replaced 1) every 4 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first, or 2) whenever the fuel pressure drops below 40-47 psi, with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched, after making sure that the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator are OK.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Place shop towel under and around fuel filter.
3. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing gas cap.
4. Remove 12 mm banjo bolt and 14 mm fuel feed pipe (use flare wrench) from fuel filter.
5. Remove fuel filter clamp and fuel filter.
6. Use new copper washers, when assembling.
7. Tighten banjo bolt to 16 lb-ft, service bolt (middle of banjo bolt) to 11 lb-ft, and fuel feed pipe to 28 lb-ft. Clean flared joint of high pressure hoses thoroughly before reconnecting.

CAUTION: Only change fuel filter when the engine is cold. Keep a Class B fire extinguisher ready. No smoking or open flames allowed (e.g., gas hot water heater, dryer, or furnace). Keep tools a safe distance from battery. Wear safety goggles.

txgreasemonkey

K. Steering Lock Replacement, Including ATX Key Interlock System

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove dashboard lower cover and knee bolster.
3. Disconnect 5-P connector from the under-dash fuse box and 7-P connector from the main wire harness.
4. Remove steering column covers.
5. Remove column holder mounting bolts and nuts.
6. Lower steering column assembly.
7. Center punch both shear bolts and drill heads off with a 5 mm drill bit, being careful not to damage the switch body when removing shear bolts.
8. Remove shear bolts from switch body.
9. Install new steering lock assembly (with key interlock solenoid*, if appropriate) without the key inserted.
10. Loosely tighten new shear bolts.
11. Insert ignition key and check for proper operation of steering wheel lock and that ignition key turns freely.
12. Tighten shear bolts until hex heads twist off.

*The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition switch, unless the shift lever is in Park. When the shift lever is in any position other than Park, a solenoid is activated, making it impossible for the key to be removed until the shift lever is moved to Park.

If the key cannot be removed, the key interlock solenoid is OK. If the key can be removed, replace the steering lock assembly (key interlock solenoid is not available separately):

txgreasemonkey

E. Honda Civic Alternator Replacement

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect 4-P connector from alternator.
3. Remove terminal nut and WHT wire from B terminal.
4. Remove upper mount bracket nut and engine wire harness.
5. Remove adjusting bolt and through-bolt nut; then, remove alternator belt from pulley.
6. Remove alternator through-bolt, then remove alternator.
7. Remove mount bracket bolts and upper and lower mount brackets, if necessary.
8. Install new alternator and belt. Replace belt, if cracks or damage are evident.
9. Adjust belt tension. Measure belt deflection between alternator and crankshaft pulleys, after applying a force of 22 lbs. Deflection should be 7.0 to 10.5 mm (.28 to .41 in.) on an old belt and 5.5 to 8.0 mm (.22 to .31 in.) on a new belt; i.e., one run for less than 5 minutes.
10. Move alternator to obtain proper belt tension. Retighten adjusting bolt to 17 lb-ft and through-bolt nut to 33 lb-ft.

txgreasemonkey

B. Honda Civic Ignition System Troubleshooting (Continued)

A summary of the tests that should be followed, if you are experiencing a "crank but won't start situation," are:

1. Check Engine Light (CEL) Tests. If the CEL does not go out, most Civics will not spark and the fuel pump will not run. Therefore, all efforts should first be directed to correcting the problem(s) that prevent you from being able to answer "Yes" to the three basic diagnostic questions below:

a. Turning the ignition switch to ON (or position II), not START, does the CEL come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) 15 amp fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test; Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.

b. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.

c. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? If not, check that the fuel pump works by jumping terminals 5 and 7 on the main relay connector and then turning the ignition switch to ON.

2. Fuse Tests. Check all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multi-meter. Using a test light or multi-meter is faster, more accurate, and eliminates the possibility of replacing a fuse in the wrong slot. This is easy to do in the dark and cramped location of most under-dash fuse boxes.

3. Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Test. Jump the 2-P Service Check Connector with a paper clip, turn the ignition switch to ON (or position II), and read DTCs, if any.

4. Spark Tests. Perform the standard spark test; i.e., remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark. It's preferable to use a calibrated ignition tester, such as KD Tools No. 2756. Do this for each plug. If none of the plugs spark:

a. Tachometer Test. Disconnect tachometer wire (if equipped). A shorted tachometer can prevent the vehicle from starting. The blue wire going to the Ignition Control Module (igniter) should be unfastened. Try starting the car again. If it starts, the problem is with the tachometer. If it still doesn't start:

b. Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.

c. ICM (igniter) Test. Characteristics of a bad igniter are no spark (dead engine) or fluctuating rpm.
1. Remove distributor cap, rotor, and leak cover.
2. Disconnect the BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU, YEL/GRN, and BLU wires from the ICM.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM. If there is voltage, go to step 4.
4. Turn ignition switch ON. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage. If there is no battery voltage, check the ignition coil and the WHT/BLU wire between the ignition coil and the ICM. If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.
5. Check the YEL/GRN wire between the ECM and the ICM.
6. Check the BLU wire between the tachometer and the ICM.
7. If all test are normal, replace the ICM.

d. Coil Test.
1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not with specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.

Autozone and O'Reilly Auto Parts will test igniters and coils for free.

5. Fuel Test. For the fuel injectors to work properly, the fuel rail must receive fuel at the proper flow and pressure. To test fuel pump pressure:
a. Disconnect negative battery cable.
b. Remove gas cap, in order to depressurize the system.
c. Remove the 6 mm service bolt at the fuel filter, while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench.
d. Place shop towel over the service bolt.
e. Loosen the service bolt one complete turn, to depressurize the fuel filter.
f. Install fuel pressure gauge and check for 40 to 47 psi. If engine will not start, turn the ignition switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure. If pressure is low, check for a clogged fuel filter, faulty fuel pressure regulator, or leakage in the fuel hoses or pipes. As a last resort, replace the fuel pump.


Note: I am not a real fan of DIY bench testing of main relays, ICMs, and coils. DIY bench testing does not simulate the heat that often causes these components to exhibit intermittent failure. It's safer to replace these critical ignition system components. Remember, the objective is "like new" performance and reliability, for as long as you own the car.

txgreasemonkey

O. Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

1. Suck brake fluid out of master cylinder reservoir, using a battery squeeze bulb.
2. Disconnect clutch pipe and reservoir hose from clutch master cylinder.
3. Pry out cotter pin, pull pedal pin out of the yoke, and remove mounting nuts.
4. Remove clutch master cylinder.
5. Install clutch master cylinder in reverse order of removal.
6. Bleed system.


Two items are important to remember about hydraulic clutches:
1. Don't overfill the clutch master cylinder reservoir.
2. Change brake fluid every 2 years, to flush crud from the system and replace fluid lubricity and corrosion properties.

txgreasemonkey

P. Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

Removal:
1. Disconnect clutch pipe from slave cylinder. Plug end of clutch pipe with a shop towel, to prevent brake fluid from draining.
2. Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing, which is held on by two 12 mm bolts.

Installation:
1. Install slave cylinder on clutch housing, then connect clutch pipe. Make sure boot is installed on slave cylinder. Apply super high temperature urea grease on ball-end of slave cylinder and brake assembly lube on sealing lip of boot.
2. Bleed clutch hydraulic system.


Two items are important to remember about hydraulic clutches:
1. Don't overfill the clutch master cylinder reservoir.
2. Change brake fluid every 2 years, to flush crud from the system and replace fluid lubricity and corrosion properties.

txgreasemonkey

Q. Head Gasket Replacement

Compression Test. Crank engine over at least 7 compression strokes. In a healthy engine, compression should build quickly. Low compression on the first stroke, followed by gradually increasing pressure on subsequent strokes, indicates worn piston rings. Low compression readings on the first stroke, which doesn't build during successive compression strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (could also be a cracked head). If adjacent cylinders have equally low compression, there's a good chance the head gasket is the problem. Below is important information, when changing the head gasket.

On the D15B7 and D15B8 engines, follow this timing procedure:

1. Set the crankshaft so that the No. 1 piston is at top dead center (TDC). Align the groove on the teeth side of the timing belt drive pulley to the arrow pointer on the oil pump.

2. Align the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley with the cylinder head upper surface

Normally, you tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps (and in the proper order), applying clean engine oil on the bolt threads and washer contact surface:

1st step: 22 lb-ft
2nd step: 47 lb-ft, for D15B7; 53 lb-ft, for D16Z6 and D15Z1 engine.

Tightening sequence for D15B7 engine:

8,6,2,4,10
9,3,1,5,07

Always use a new cylinder head gasket and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

It's best to place a mark (e.g., Whiteout or white paint) on each pulley and corresponding point on the side of the old timing belt, before removing. Then, remove old belt, transfer marks exactly to new belt, and reinstall with confidence.

txgreasemonkey

R. Fuel Pump Test and Replacement

Test

1. Remove rear seat.
2. Remove access panel (4 screws).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector.

CAUTION: Be sure to turn ignition switch OFF, before disconnecting the wires.

4. Disconnect the main relay connector and connect the BLK/YEL (5) wire and YEL/GRN (7) wire with a jumper wire.
5. Check for battery voltage at the fuel pump connector, when ignition switch is turned ON (position II). Attach red test probe to the YEL/GRN wire and negative probe to the BLK wire. If battery voltage is available, replace the fuel pump. If there is no voltage, check fuel pump ground and wire harness.


Replacement

1. Relieve fuel pressure, by removing fuel tank cap.
2. Remove rear seat.
3. Remove access panel (4 screws).
4. Disconnect fuel lines and connector.
5. Remove fuel pump mounting nuts.
6. Remove fuel pump from fuel tank.


WARNING: Do not smoke while working on fuel system. Keep open flames away from work area.