. Ensure battery is fully charged.
. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:
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. Check for codes.
. Test for Spark. Perform the standard spark test; i.e., remove a spark plug wire and attach it to a properly gapped spark plug, touch the plug to a convenient ground, and observe the spark, while someone cranks the engine. Look for a good, solid spark. Do this for each plug. If none of the plugs spark:
a. Tachometer Test. Disconnect tachometer wire (if equipped). A shorted tachometer can prevent the vehicle from starting. Try starting the car again. If it starts, the problem is with the tachometer. If it still doesn't start:
b. Power to Distributor Test. Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect the 2-P connector from the distributor. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between BLK/YEL (+) terminal and body ground. There should be 12+ volts read. If not, repair open in BLK/YEL wire between the 2-P connector and ignition switch.
c. Ignition Control Module (ignitor) Test. Characteristics of a bad ignitor are no spark (dead engine) or fluctuating rpm. Here's what it looks like and costs:
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d. Coil Test.
1. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from terminals A (+) and B (-), respectively.
2. Measure resistance (ohms) between the terminals. Replace coil if the resistance is not within specifications. Primary Winding Resistance (between A and B terminals) should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms. Secondary Winding Resistance (between A and secondary winding terminals) should be 12.8 to 19.2 k-ohms.
Here's what it looks like and costs:
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Autozone and O'Reilly Auto Parts will test ignitors and coils for free.
. Test for fuel.
. If the ICM and coil fail their tests, also replace the rotor, distributor cap, and spark plug wires.
My gut is that the ICM and/or coil are bad.
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