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Engine Cranks but wont start

Asked Jan 30, 2008, 09:23 AM — 5 Answers
I drove my 97 eclipse gst with 53000 miles the other day and parked it shortly after. It would not start again. Engine would crank but would not start. I checked fuel pump, works when turning the key. I checked fuel rail and it is receiving fuel. I checked spark on all wires it is fine and plugs are all sparking. So I readjusted the timing and belt by the book. No luck. When I crank it and then pull the plugs they seem to be a little wet. But it just quit starting right after I drove it..

5 Answers
TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,512, Reputation: 5333
Senior Cars & Trucks Expert
 
#2

Jan 30, 2008, 09:44 AM


. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post252145

. Check for any codes.

. Test/replace the Ignition Control Module. Here's what it looks like and costs:

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. Test/replace the ignition coil. Here's what it looks like and costs:

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AutoZone should be able to test each of these items for free.

. Disconnect the tachometer wire that may be shorting out the distributor.

. Examine condition of distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs.

I'm leaning toward a bad Ignition Control Module, coil, or sensor--such as the Crankshaft Position Sensor or Camshaft Position Sensor:

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You want to only use synthetic engine oil in your turbo.
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Turboeclipse86's Avatar
Turboeclipse86 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
New Member
 
#3

Jan 30, 2008, 12:13 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turboeclipse86
I drove my 97 eclipse gst with 53000 miles the other day and parked it shortly after. It would not start again. Engine would crank but would not start. I checked fuel pump, works when turning the key. I checked fuel rail and it is receiving fuel. I checked spark on all wires it is fine and plugs are all sparking. So I readjusted the timing and belt by the book. No luck. When I crank it and then pull the plugs they seem to be a little wet. But it just quit starting right after I drove it..
I tested the icm and coil both are good... Crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor show to be fine.. No check engine light. It comes on with the key but goes off shortly after
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,512, Reputation: 5333
Senior Cars & Trucks Expert
 
#4

Jan 30, 2008, 12:39 PM


I've had distributors that sounded like "thrashing machines" and were self-destructing that never threw a code. If fuses, ICM, and coil are good, I lean toward a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor or an issue with the ECM. Check reference voltages on the MAP sensor, when the ignition is turned to ON.
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this8384's Avatar
this8384 Posts: 4,592, Reputation: 2572
Ultra Member
 
#5

Feb 25, 2008, 09:38 AM
It can't be the crank sensor if he's got both spark and injector pulse; the crank sensor controls both of these.

I would try a new set of plugs just because you're saying they're wet when you pull them; they shouldn't be wet at all. It could just be that the motor is flooded. Plugs don't cost that much so if it doesn't remedy the problem, you're not out much money.

If new plugs don't take care of it, have the fuel pressure and regulator tested; the regulator could be dumping too much fuel into the cylinders causing it to flood itself.
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spurlocksmallengine's Avatar
spurlocksmallengine Posts: 11, Reputation: 10
New Member
 
#6

Jan 2, 2010, 12:59 AM
I would check the PCM fuse, MAP sensor, and mass air flow.
However fuses shouldn't be blowing, they are usually the start of a much bigger problem
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