. Check Engine Light (CEL) Test. Does the CEL come on and then go off, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multi-meter:
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. Code Test. Attach a code reader or scan tool to the Data Link Connector, located under the dash.
. Spark Test. Perform the standard spark test. Remember, it's possible to have spark but the engine is not firing at the right time. The Crankshaft Position Sensor is often the culprit. Their physical location often subjects them to the elements.
. Fuel Test. Can you hear the fuel pump, located in the gas tank, come on for two seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?
. ECU Test. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned ground on the engine. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECU failure. Most failed ECUs will record a fraction of a volt.
If the ECU records a fraction of a volt, disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the ECU. Buy an exact part number match to the part number on the ECU. Check for remanufactured ECUs at auto parts stores, Ebay, salvage, and online. Shop for price and warranty, if possible.
Be sure to locate and clean the main ECU ground. If the gas tank was almost empty, add more than a few gallons of gas. Then, turn the ignition switch to ON. The fuel pump should run and pressurize the fuel rail. Repeat this several more times, to ensure the fuel pressure is sufficient for the injectors to work.