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Check engine light just came on on my Civic and Autozone guy tested it and told me it showed misfire error code.
Car acted a little wierd on start since i bought it a month ago, especialy in the mornings and after it sat for a while: looked like engine was either flooded, or it worked on 2 or 3 cylinders, I heard knocking in the right part of the engine. A lot of white smoke came out of the muffler. But it managed to start after 15-20 seconds and pick up RPMs, knocking dissapeared. Car runs great when hot, no problem at all, RPMs are pretty stable, no white/black smoke.
I thought it was ICM (ignitor), but then i read one posting saying that "no spark and fluctuating RPMs are characteristics of bad ICM". I got spark, though.
Car has 127,000 miles, when i bought it i changed fuel and air filters, oil, spark plugs and ignition wires.
A misfire code is often a sign that spark plugs (NGK only) and/or coil needs replacing. I normally recommend replacing igniters and coils at 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. These are problematic components on Hondas, along with main relays. You should also consider replacing the rotor and distributor cap, if you haven't already.
White smoke is often an indication of antifreeze being burned. You may have a warped head or blown head gasket. Run a compression check on each cylinder and observe how the pressure builds.
A misfire code is often a sign that spark plugs (NGK only) and/or coil needs replacing. I normally recommend replacing igniters and coils at 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first. These are problematic components on Hondas, along with main relays. You should also consider replacing the rotor and distributor cap, if you haven't already.
White smoke is often an indication of antifreeze being burned. You may have a warped head or blown head gasket. Run a compression check on each cylinder and observe how the pressure builds.
Thanks, txgreasemonkey! i will replace ignitor and coil. Do you have to take off distributor off the engine to replace ignitor? Ignitor seems inaccessible when distributor is on the engine.
Speaking of white smoke, it comes out only when the car is cold. does it mean anything?
just wanted to come back to you and let you know my progress.
I decided to replace coil, dist. cap and rotor first - less expensive than to get also a new ignotor.
So last night i did that and it started remarkably good. I shut it down and restarted a couple of times with intervals about 10 min in between. Worked like a clock - no withe smoke, no knocking in the engine. I thought I solved the problem (with your help, of course :-) )
But this morning it would not start at all!!! What in the world could possibly happen overnight!?? I smell gas out of the pipe, fuel pump buzzing, relays clicking, no MIL comes on. I have not checked if I have spark or not - was running to work in the morning.
Txgreasemonkey, any ideas on the possible cause? It is just weird...
My feeling is that your igniter is not firing when the ECM wants it to. Therefore, I would replace the igniter. Check out the prices on RockAuto.com. Remember, you may have spark, but if the igniter doesn't fire when it's supposed to your car will start and run erratically. I think your igniter is breaking down.
The gas smell is because the spark plugs aren't firing. Try and substitute a known good igniter, just so you know that this is your problem. I keep a spare igniter with me in my car. This component is the cause of many problems people experience with cars today, regardless of make.
What specific no. was the original misfire code?
Many AutoZone stores can check igniters for free!
I don't really believe in doing this, but you could probably force your car to throw a code by trying to start it and have the starter motor crank away for 20 seconds.
My feeling is that your igniter is not firing when the ECM wants it to. Therefore, I would replace the igniter. Check out the prices on RockAuto.com. Remember, you may have spark, but if the igniter doesn't fire when it's supposed to your car will start and run erratically. I think your igniter is breaking down.
The gas smell is because the spark plugs aren't firing. Try and substitute a known good igniter, just so you know that this is your problem. I keep a spare igniter with me in my car. This component is the cause of many problems people experience with cars today, regardless of make.
What specific no. was the original misfire code?
Many AutoZone stores can check igniters for free!
I don't really believe in doing this, but you could probably force your car to throw a code by trying to start it and have the starter motor crank away for 20 seconds.
Hi, txgreasemonkey!
i got a new Duralast ICM for $89 from Autozone (they could not test my old one cause they did could not find a power cord to a tester )
So I pu in a new one and no result - still won't start. I checked the spark - and i saw 2 or 3 weak sparks and then sparks disappeared. So i would say - no spark.
I tested all the fuses - they are good. Tested power to distributor - 12.3 V.
I put in my old ICM and coil back - same story. There is a chance, of course, that new ICM and new coil are no good, but I tested ICM with multi-meter and it showed significantly higher resistance between a pair of connectors (I don't remember which ones) than an old ICM. Both new and old coils tested OK on resistance.
I tried to start it with blue wire from ICM to tachometer disconnected (to test if tachometer is shorted) - no result.
txgreasemonkey, I am almost desperate :-( I know there are ECM tests, but they seem complicated for me since I am not a mechanic or something.
Most frustrating about this is that it started great after I replaced coil. And next morning it was dead...
Speaking of white smoke, it comes out only when the car is cold. does it mean anything?
This is a non-issue at this time. Condensation collects inside the exhaust system as the system cools down.
keep an eye on it, if it is doing this when the system is hot, or completely warmed,(any other time other than startup) this is a sign of a bad headgasket, and needs to be replaced, before it does damage.
1. When you turn the ignition switch to ON (not START), does the Check Engine Light (CEL) come on and then go off after 2 seconds? If not, the problem is with the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, in the under-dash fuse/relay box; ECM (perform the K-Test, below); Main Relay; or the Ignition Switch. Perform tests in that order.
2. When the CEL goes out, do you hear and/or feel the Main Relay "click"? If not, repair or replace the Main Relay.
3. During the 2 second interval that the CEL is on, do you hear the fuel pump in the gas tank run? If not, check the fuel pump.
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What was the original misfire code?
Have you tested the compression?
Next, I would run the K-Test below to test your ECM:
The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.
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