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Home > Home & Garden > Cars & Trucks   »   95 honda civic won't start, help!

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Old Sep 18, 2006, 02:24 PM
JugglingWolves
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95 honda civic won't start, help!

My 1995 civic will not start. I have never had a problem with this car before. The battery is fairly new; only about a year old. It cranks just fine with a normal starting sound, but nothing else happens. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. I thought it was flooded, so I tried starting it with the pedal all the way down, but that didn't help at all. It smells of gas now, from opening it all the way, so I know fuel is actually getting somewhere. I just had a major tune up done less than a year ago with new spark plugs, new timing belts, new fuel and water pump, everything.

Any suggestions on helping me diagnose and repair this problem?

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Old Oct 21, 2008, 10:26 AM   #21  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey View Post
If you turn your ignition ON, the Check Engine Light, on a properly running Honda, should come on and then go off after 2 seconds. During this time, you should hear the fuel pump run. If the Check Engine Light does not come on and then go off, focus on the main relay, ECM, and ignition switch.

So, describe what your Check Engine Light, battery light, oil pressure light, and fuel pump are doing?

Did you check all under-hood and under-dash fuses?

What's the mileage on your Civic?
I have replaced the coil, ICM, and main relay. All of the fuses are good and I still don't have fire to the plugs. When I turn the key on the CEL stays on and I don't hear the fuel pump. In the midst of troubleshooting it rained and cooled off (Houston) and the car started but now won't. Do you know if Honda can run diagnostics on the computer if I take it out of the car? I hate to spend over $200 on a computer if that's not the problem.
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 10:34 AM   #22  
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bugznsb, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
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