My 1995 civic will not start. I have never had a problem with this car before. The battery is fairly new; only about a year old. It cranks just fine with a normal starting sound, but nothing else happens. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. I thought it was flooded, so I tried starting it with the pedal all the way down, but that didn't help at all. It smells of gas now, from opening it all the way, so I know fuel is actually getting somewhere. I just had a major tune up done less than a year ago with new spark plugs, new timing belts, new fuel and water pump, everything.

Any suggestions on helping me diagnose and repair this problem?

JugglingWolves

Thank you so much for all your help! I'll pass this information along to my much more car-savvy brother who, hopefully, will be able to replace what needs to be fixed.

Also, is this a problem that just happens suddenly, as in your car is fine one moment, then won't turn on. Or is it kind of a degenerative problem, where the car slowly deteriorates?

TxGreaseMonkey

Normally, it comes suddenly. Solid state either works or it doesn't. Hondas are notorious for igniters and coils going, especially with the mileage you have on your's. ICMs contain a sophisticated computer chip, which is ruined by heat over time. Remove the igniter and coil and take them to Autozone for testing. If you plan on keeping the car, I would go ahead and replace the igniter and the coil. This is what Honda dealers would do. Most Honda dealerships probably replace this "package" several times each day.

If you end up replacing the igniter, remember to apply silicone dielectric grease to the back of the igniter, which is mounted to a heat sink. The silicone grease assists in heat transfer. Also, apply silicone grease to the four electrical contacts. Even if your old igniter tests OK, it's very important to reapply dielectric grease, before reinstalling it.

JugglingWolves

Again, thank you for being so much help! I called autozone to see if they had an igniter and the coil for my car and they called it an "igniter coil". I'm hoping that's the same thing. I plan on going to pick it up today and, with your new advice, I will also get some silicone grease for it.

What kind of tools do I need to change this?

TxGreaseMonkey

If you have an Advance Auto Parts where you live, check prices with them. Their igniters and coils have been less expensive than Autozone's, when I have checked.

You will need an 8mm nutdriver (or ratchet wrench with a 6" extension) to remove the distributor cap and a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the rotor and igniter. You will also need a pair of needle-nose pliers, to remove the connectors [TRICK: Remove coil to greatly increase room for working on igniter and replacing wires]. Silicone grease is sometimes included in the box that the igniter comes in, at least with the G.P. Sorensen igniters I have seen. To get to the igniter, you may have to crank the car to position the rotor screw for removal. So, remove the distributor cap, rotor, dust cover, and coil; then, you will have plenty of access to the igniter. Remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal, after removing the rotor.

Once you remove the igniter and heat-sink, undo the two mounting screws securing the igniter to the heat-sink. Coat the back of the new igniter with silicone grease and mount to the old heat-sink. Reinstall igniter/heat-sink, coat terminals with silicone grease, replace wires, and "button-up" the operation.

TxGreaseMonkey

Looks like Autozone is cheaper for an igniter for your year Civic.

TxGreaseMonkey

Looks like Autozone is cheaper for an igniter for your year Civic.

fourtheboys96

i used to have a similar problem. the mechanic changed the igniter and ignition coil.

my problem now is that after turning the car keys to "on" the check engine light would also turn on but it would not come off after 2 seconds as it used to be.

on a cold start, it would sometimes take 5 minutes before the CEL comes off and thats the only time i would be able to start the car.

any idea on what should i check?

thanks!

TxGreaseMonkey

fourtheboys96, run the K-Test. It sounds like your ECM is failing.

fourtheboys96

it is the first time i heard of the K-Test. can you describe how its done. thanks!

TxGreaseMonkey

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.