I have a 92 honda civic LX it starts first thing when it is cold and once the engine warms up it starts to perform bad. When I start out after stopping at a light it hesitates in going when I have my foot sometimes all the way to the floor. When I go from city driving to interstate driving it has a hard time shifting as I speed up. After driving it around the city and stopping and starting it a few times, it does not want to start up again. It does not turn over. What could this be?

txgreasemonkey

. Check for codes, if any.

. Replace fuel filter.

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post224689

. Test/replace the Ignition Control Module and coil. AutoZone can do this for free.

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post265896

. Test/replace main relay, if the problem persists.

This would be a good time to also replace the spark plugs (NGK only), rotor, and distributor cap.

dartfrog26

What about the map sensor?

txgreasemonkey

Yes, you can check out the vacuum hoses and ensure there's no blockage from the throttle body to the MAP Sensor. Fortunately, these are a very reliable sensors and not prone to problems. Unfortunately, for those whose MAP Sensor fails, they are very expensive--in some cases, prohibitively.

If you experience the situation where the Check Engine Light does not go out after two seconds, when you turn the ignition key to ON, perform the K-Test on the ECM:

K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.