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My 92 Honda Accord wont start, coil has no spark.the starter cranks fast, I replace the coil, the main relay switch and the ECU module inside the distributer.I used a multimeter to check the battery voltage (12 volts) but the highest voltage going in to the coil is only 1.4 volts. I could use some help on this one. Thanks
Turn the ignition switch ON. Check for voltage from the ignition switch to the BLK/YEL wire on the 2P connector to the distributor (+) and ground (-). It should be around 12.4v. From there, check out voltages in the distributor. However, I really suspect something else is going on; i.e., you are looking at the effect, not the cause.
3 weeks ago I started experiencing similar problems with my 1993 Civic, where it would crank but not start. I had never had a starting problem in 13 years. It took me over 2 weeks to isolate the real problem. I replaced the coil, ICM, and main relay and it still did not spark. Turned out to be a failing MAP sensor, which controls ignition timing and air/fuel mixture. This is the "Key" sensor on my car and might also be on yours. If it is failing when you start, there may be no codes thrown and it will deny power to the ECM, ignition, and fuel pump. So see if that's the situation with your Accord, which I have little experience with. However, both cars are of the same vintage and probably share the same basic technology. If you think this could be the case, turn the ignition ON, disconnect the 3P connector going to the MAP sensor, then wait several minutes. You might hear your main relay and your fuel pump start to work for the first time in a while--the sound of hope. If this happens, reconnect the 3P connector to the MAP sensor and try to start your car. Mine started right up. After that experience, I ordered a new sensor, which was expensive like most transducers.
In return for the help, please let me know the solution to your problem.
Check out voltage on the MAP sensor reference wire. It probably should be around 5 v. If it's way low, you probably have a bad computer. Confirm voltage readings at the computer, to ensure you don't have an open between the ECM and the MAP sensor. Remember, ECMs are nothing more than "power transistors." Their primary job is to provide the correct voltages to all the sensors, under constantly changing conditions. Don't believe the stories you may read on the internet that Honda ECMs don't go bad--they are bogus. I've had to replace mine. Heat, vibration, and shorts, among other things, can render them inoperable. If your's is bad, get a remanufactured ECM with a lifetime warranty.
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