I left my car sitting for about 2 days. I came home tried to start it and it started, but sounded horrible. I shut it off and decided to go get new plugs and wires, (it sounded like a bad plug to me). After installing the new plugs and wires the car fired right up but still didn't sound that great. All of the sudden it just shut off, like someone just turned the key off. I was standing there looking at the motor when this happened. There were no odd noises, smells, smoke, nothing. Since then I have replaced the cap and rotor, and air filter. So all together I have replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and air filter. I also found out that my battery was bad and replaced that. I tried once again to fire it up and it turned over fine, making no strange noises or anything, sounded good, but wouldn't fire. I have replaced the timing belt twice since I've had it and it's only been 4 years. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

txgreasemonkey

Perform the tests, outlined in Sections A and B, below:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...das-46563.html

Most importantly, does the Check Engine Light come on and go off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON?

lmland

I have a click before the fuel pump runs and a click after. The check engine light does come on and go out following the fuel pump running.

txgreasemonkey

Replace the Ignition Control Module and coil inside the distributor:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post265896

If you want, AutoZone can test these components for free. Should the problem persist, the CKP, TDC, and CYL sensors inside the distributor are likely bad, which will require replacing the distributor housing. Only go with a genuine Honda distributor housing, not an aftermarket. We have had many problems with new aftermarket distributor housings.

lmland

I am in the middle of trying to get the igniter out of my civic, and im having trouble accessing the screws that hold the igniter in there. Any tips? Am I missing something? My Chilton manual is terribly unspecific about my civic year?

txgreasemonkey

. Removing coil first improves access to ignitor.

. Removing the distributor is sometimes easier. Make sure you mark the distributor and mounting bracket first; otherwise, the timing may be way off upon reinstallation.

lmland

I have the new igniter and I am getting ready to put it in. I noticed that you had said in your manual that you need to put silicon grease on the "back" of the new igniter and on the male connectors. Which side is considered the back? And which of these connections are the male, they all look similiar. I tried looking in the chilton again but it doesnt tell me which connectors are which, or anything about the silicon grease.

txgreasemonkey

The back is the side that contacts the heat sink. Lightly coat the four "male" connectors on the ignitor with silicone grease. Ensure the female connectors are tight, when pushed over the male connectors--squeeze with a pair of needle-nose pliers, if necessary. The manufacturer of the ignitor normally provides special heat transfer silicone grease. Don't apply a thick coating--just an average amount, evenly spread.

Did you have your old ignitor tested?

lmland

Yes I had my old one tested at auto zone, they said it was bad. I got a new one put it on and it still doesnt run. I pulled the plugs out and checked for spark when I turned the car over I have nothing. How could the igniter have been bad but a new one doesnt solve the problem?

txgreasemonkey

It may be the coil is bad. Was the coil tested on AutoZone's Wells machine?