My 1992 Honda accord refused to start yesterday (90 plus degrees outside), despite cranking over very strong. I listened for the fuel pump to engage, which it did and I also heard the subsequent click of the relay shutting power off.
I checked for spark directly from the coil and there was spark evident. Still a strong crank, fuel pump sound, no start. I then replaced my cap/rotor, as they were 70K miles old. My car immediately started on first try, missed a little bit, then purred as usual.

On the way to the gas station (level was above Empty, no light on) the engine almost died while idling, but I gave some throttle and saved it. After gassing up, let the engine idle for 5min while I fixed some lady's horn. Ran smooth. Drove several blocks towards home and engine died very quietly. Has not started since.

289,850 miles.
Ignition coil checks out with proper voltage, resistance, etc.
Cap/Rotor are new.
Proper voltage at ignitor, resistance, continuity to ECM. DID NOT CHECK FEED TO TACHOMETER.
No spark at all from coil. Checked coil secondary wire=5 ohm resistance.

I've read that if you're getting no spark AND your ignition coil checks out good and your IGNITOR CHECKS OUT GOOD (huh?) then the ignitor is bad and needs replacement (huh?).

Also, I read that if your tachometer works, then your ignitor is good. Does this mean movement while I crank the motor?

I would like to know how to tell for sure if the ignitor is bad, or if the problem could be the ECM or MAP sensor. Or the distributor.

Thanks for all the great info on this forum!

txgreasemonkey

It appears your main relay could be bad. After the circuit board heats up, faulty solder joints cause the relay to fail. With almost 290,000 miles on your Honda, I would still go ahead and replace the igniter and coil.

It would be a good idea to test your ECM. Turn ignition ON and check for 5 volts between the MAP sensor connector's far right connector and ground. I really don't suspect anything is wrong with your ECM but this is a good, simple test.

afreeclimber

Thanks txgreasemonkey. You're a smart tech and a great guy to offer GOOD and FREE advice.

I replaced the ignitor ($70 @ AutoZone) and the car started right up and runs smooth (after discharging all the fuel built up in the cylinders). Hopefully, it will continue to run and the problem is fixed.
I was always able to hear the fuel pump run for 2 sec after turning on the car, so I ruled out a main relay.
I did check for 5v reference at the throttle position sensor (per another post of yours) to ensure ECM function.
A problem I ran into was that the wires connected to my ignitor were different colors than what I read online AND different from my Chilton (crap) manual. I started down the wrong path because of this so, DONT RELY ON COLOR CODING OF WIRES FOR THE IGNITOR DIAGNOSIS. I had to match up photos/drawings with my car to get proper info.

New questions:

1---If the ignition coil is good for all tests, is it still possible for it to be the cause of a no spark condition?

2---How important is the black plastic "splash guard" that fits between the distributor rotor and the distributor innards? Mine is broken and I'm wondering if the guard is against water/dirt, or if it prevents arcing spark impulses from hitting sensitive components (like my $70 ignitor).

Thanks again txgreasemonkey, you post great info.

txgreasemonkey

Thanks for the compliment.

Main relays can appear to be fine per the tests you sighted. However, they can still be problematic, when the circuit boards heat up on hot summer days. They become erratic and can let you down at inopportune times.

Likewise, coils can test OK per standard bench tests and still fail to deliver the secondary voltage required. The older I get, the more I think important ignition components, such as main relays, ICMs, coils, distributors, and even ECMs, should be replaced every 120,000 miles. Just like the Air Force performs Iso Chronicle Inspections on aircraft, in addition to flight hour and time inspections, we need to think in similar terms about our cars, if readiness is important to us. I pull my car aside every 6 months and inspect it for a host of things not scheduled, based on time or mileage, in the service manual. For me, like-new performance and looks are very important and I will replace components early, in order to insure reliability.

The inside distributor cover helps shield the ICM, coil, and other sensors from damaging high secondary voltage. Carbon traces and worn out rotors, distributors caps, and spark plug wires can cause high voltage to destroy distributor components. The high voltage has to go somewhere, if the resistance path to the plugs is too great. I would try and find a replacement cover or try repairing what you have.

Obviously, you have been doing a fine job of preventive maintenance to get almost 300,000 miles from your Accord. I love seeing high mileage cars that are still in great shape. Keep up the good work.

afreeclimber

Replaced the shield for $4 (Honda dealer). Cheap price for peace of mind.

I am proud to say that I just drove my Accord from Michigan to California, about 2500 miles. Averaged 36mpg w/ air conditioner usage. Burned about a quart of oil. Did the trip in three days, two nights.

I've definitely gotten my money out of this car.

Jim2007

have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws fromt he distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be carefull not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and alot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be carefull not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.

dharjinni

I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX 2.2L S4 with Automatic Transmission. For three years we have had the check engine light on and have replaced quite a few things. In the end, the problem was the TDC Position Sensor and was resolved by replacing the distributor. 2-3 weeks later, the engine overheated after the thermostat shattered (it was a cheap AutoZone part). 6 weeks after that we started having problems with the car again. It started one night when the car died instantly while driving down the road. After stopping I was able to start it and get going again. Over the next week, the probem occurred more frequently and the car could not be started again for at least one hour but sometimes up to five hours. We have replaced the ignition coil and distributor cap/rotor but the problem still remains. Each time it happened, I was not in a position to rule out spark. But tonight, I tried to move it a few feet and it died again. I immediately checked for spark coming from the ignition coil and there was none. After googling the problem, I arrived here and read these posts. My concern was that the distributor was new, but the overheating may have damaged the ICM. Anyway, any help anyone can provide will go a long way. We have already spent nearly $5000 keeping this car running over the past three years because we still owe money on it.

PS - both computers were replaced early this year. Not sure if they have gone bad, loose connection, etc. Just adding this to help with diagnosis.

Thanks,

Dharjinni

PPS - If it is indeed the ICM, thanks to Jim2007 for the detailed replacement instructions. Chilton manuals don't have anything, and google didn't have the answer!

txgreasemonkey

dharjinni, perform the tests outlined in Sections A and B below:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...das-46563.html

Testing/replacing the ICM is a very logical thing to do. Here's how to do the work yourself:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...tml#post265896

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free.

Because of the age of the vehicle, I would replace the main relay, which is located under the dash, left of the steering column (hidden by silver cruise control box, which needs to be removed). Your intermittent ignition problems may be related to cold solder joints on the main relay's printed circuit board. These problems usually surface on hot days, but not always. Sections A and B will lead you by the hand to what the problem is.

dharjinni

I took my distributor to AutoZone and had the ICM tested. The results indicated the ICM was bad. I took the distributor to Advance who sold me the unit and had it replaced under warranty. I put the new distributor on and the car seems to run fine. I will have to do more road testing to be 100%, but it's looking good!

Dharjinni

txgreasemonkey

Good job!