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91 honda civic won't start after running really bad
my son bought a 91 honda civic hatchback dx several months ago as a first car, it never really had much power to it, but we thought that was normal for such a small car. then it started dying every now and then and getting irritable. then it started sounding really rough, smelling like gas and running rich"my husband says" so, he's changed the spark plugs,wires,oil, filter, checked the timeing and adjusted it, changed the cap and rotar, and yesterday, changed the main efi relay which was damaged. and the car still won't start! it turns over but will not start. any ideas anyone? this was a cheap first car and turning in to a money pit!
If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off, after the ignition switch is turned to ON, focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. AutoZone can test these two components for free. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:
Car needs fuel, air, and fire to start. Make sure you have proper fuel pressure, non obstructed air filter, and spark. Remember a troubled fuel pressure regulator can cause to much pressure which can cause the problem you described.
If the Check Engine Light comes on and goes off, after the ignition switch is turned to ON, focus on the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor. AutoZone can test these two components for free. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil:
the cel stays on from what my husband says, the main relay does click, he hears the fuel pump also. he just told me that the ecu light did come on before he put the new main relay in and now there aren't any lights comeing on. any ideas? I sure hope so! thanks.
If the CEL stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, perform the K-Test on the ECM:
K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.
Here's how to replace the ECM, if it fails the K-Test:
1. Disconnect negative battery cable, after recording radio codes.
2. Remove right door sill molding, pull carpet back, and expose ECM.
3. Remove three 10 mm bolts and one 10 mm nut securing ECM cover.
4. Separate ECM cover from harness carefully.
5. Press connector release, going to connectors A, B, and D, and carefully pry connectors from ECM, using a small screwdriver.
6. Plug connectors into new ECM and button up.
ok, it's me again. after haveing a mechanic who works on honda's alot check the honda civic out, he determined he had no idea what was wrong, it has fire, compression, and fuel. there are no lights comeing on, we've put lots of new parts and nothing seems to be working. the car acts like it wants to start but never does. my husband rebuilt the fuel injection this past weekend and still nothing! anyone have anymore ideas please?
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