 | | | 91 honda civic suddenly cuts out while driving
Asked Jan 17, 2005, 07:35 PM
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37 Answers I have a 1991 honda civic dx. Worked great until last week when I was stopped at a red light and the engine just cut out. Restarted OK. Then I was cruising down the freeway and the engine suddenly cut out again. I pulled over into the shoulder and it started fine. Now, I can't make a 5 minute trip to the store without it cutting out, and it takes a few tries to start. My mechanic cannot locate the cause. Anyone? Thread Summary |
37 Answers
 | New Member | |
Oct 6, 2010, 03:27 AM
| | | I resolved the problem on my Honda Civic 1999 after much searching in the electrical system. The problem is with the ignition switch which wears down with use and also draws appreciable amperage through the largest ignition terminals while "on". To diagnose it requires one attempting to start the car. It will usually turn over but then switch off once one has released the key to the run position. Start the car and instead of letting the spring loaded key switch under the spring loading to the normal run position, turn it back by hand a fraction more, a little past the worn part of the run "on" spot where it may not be as worn and then it will continue to run while holding the key here, until you release it back to its worn spot, where it may again cut off the engine ignition.
Fix it, if you can do it yourself, like this - Remove battery negative terminal. Use a larger 60W soldering iron. Remove plastic cover around steering wheel and screws. Unscrew two screws holding the electrical ignition terminals to the key switch assembly. This is where all the wires are soldered onto. Prise the white plastic cover off the rotary switch terminals. This will separate the spring loaded contacts from the fixed wired terminals. Clean both up with from old dirt and carbon deposits with a clean cloth, assisted by mineral turpentine or benzine. Carefully note the order of assembly. Now on the wire contact terminals you will find the holed and pitted terminals. Pool some solder onto all of these terminals including the good ones while terminals held horizontally to assist pooling solder. Soldering iron must be 60W type and hot enough to cause the solder to pool and run. Careful, not too long on terminal to cause damage . Careful, also hot, so let it cool down. Then file solder pools flatter so that the switch will rotate smoothly. Reassemble carefully noting order of disassembly and it will work fine again, till it wears out again, hopefully in the distant future ! | | |  | Junior Member | |
Jul 29, 2011, 10:16 PM
| | | Probably your altanstor or fuel pump or fuel lines | | |  | Junior Member | |
Jul 29, 2011, 10:18 PM
| | | Fuel pump? | | |  | Junior Member | |
Mar 21, 2012, 11:35 AM
| | | I had the same problem for years and many mechanics were baffled. Tried burning high-test fuel, cleaning injectors, replacing idle sensor, etc. Problem persisted. The car ran hot one day, and I finally discovered the answer. Two small water lines directly above the alternator had aged and rotted and were leaking water onto the alternator. As the leaks became worse, so did the cut-out problem. Very easy fix. Replaced the two small hoses (cost, including labor, was $60). Car runs great, even on regular-octane fuel. | | |  | New Member | |
Apr 13, 2012, 04:12 AM
| | | you know what guys, you dont need to buy a new distributor, just remove the interior cap that protects the rotary head to have an exhaust in the coil. honestly it works | | |  | New Member | |
Jul 15, 2012, 07:40 PM
| | | i followed the advice of gratefulalive and it took care of my problem.
i appreciate the help and advice and thanks much again to gratefulalive.
i have a '99 Civic that would cut off at any time while driving or cut off when leaving the house.
basically i found that it would cut off after letting the key spring back to the run position. if i held the key at the start position and released the clutch it would run.
when i let the key return to the run position it would cutoff; no dash lights or tachometer or speedometer readings. this problem could have led to an accident if it happened to cut off in the middle of an intersection. | | |  | New Member | |
Jul 28, 2012, 07:14 AM
| | | gratefulalive is 100% correct.
Save yourself the headaches, hassles and throwing a bunch of money at the problem buying every part (ICM, Main Relay, Distributor, etc) that WONT fix the problem! I have done the same procedure as explained by 'gratefulalive', it's very simple, it's a hell of a lot more cost effective then replacing the ($85.00 - $250.00) starter switch and my 1993 Civic EX starts up first time - every time and no longer dies suddenly at stop lights where I can't get it started again or my personal favorite: while I'm doing 75 mph on the freeway! Everyone bow down and praise the prowess of Honda ignition wisdom, as wielded by gratefulalive! Heed his words or suffer the financial and time burdening consequences!! | | | | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | | | | Add your answer here.
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