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rodrijacamo · Aug 9, 2004, 07:13 PM

Hi:
I am having problems with my '91 Honda civic DX when I drive for a while, then I stop the engine for 5-10 minutes to do some shopping or whatever... and then try to start again. It doesn't start at all. But if I wait another 5 or 10 minutes and I try again, usually starts. I don't have any idea what the problem is. It never happens in the morning when the car is cold. The
Battery is new. Please, if you can help me, I will apreciate it

Thank you in advanced

gunyvw · Aug 12, 2004, 11:16 AM

A lot of honda products and acura's around 89 through 91 suffered from bad ignigters a jumpstart almost always worked when you couldn't get the car started... which made figuring this problem out more difficult... they had a recall at one time on them...
Replacement of the ignigter should do the trick
Hope this helps

damuho · Sep 1, 2004, 05:19 PM

When the problem occurs, listen for a clicking sound under the dash on the left end when you turn the ignition to the ON position (without starting). If you don't hear a click, you may have a bad main relay. When you hear a click, your car will likely start fine.

The main relay is a common problem with your model year Honda. You can actually fix it just by reworking all the solder on the board.

bdb · Apr 26, 2005, 07:12 PM

I have been reading and have had all the same problems, I too checked the ground and the timing, everything is OK. I have also replaced a lot of the same parts. What should I try next?

labman · Apr 26, 2005, 10:22 PM

Coils on their way out sometimes quit working first when they are hot. If you have power to the coil, but no spark, the coil is bad.

CroCivic91 · Apr 26, 2005, 11:41 PM

What exactly are "a lot of the same parts"?

Main Relay, Igniter Unit and an Ignition Coil?

bdb · Apr 27, 2005, 08:07 AM

I have replaced the Fuel pump, the ECU. I am getting spark, I am getting fuel, the ECU comes on, and blinks once. The main relay is coming on, you can here the click. The timing is OK. The grounds are OK. My injectors are working fine. I guess my next question is what could there possibly be left. My only thought is there a valve or another sensor between the injectors and the intake?

labman · Apr 27, 2005, 08:06 PM

I saw your post here earlier today and didn't reply because I don't have much more to help. If you have spark at the spark plugs, and gas coming out the injectors, there isn't too much more to keep it from starting. A long shot is the timing being off 180 degrees. Turn the engine to where the mark on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 0 on the scale. Pull the cam cover and distributor cap. Check # 1, next to the pulley, and #4, next to the transmission. One will have both cam lobes up away from the valves, and one will have the exhaust lobe just past the valve and the intake lobe ready to open the intake valve. The rotor must point toward the one where the lobes are away from the valves.

bdb · Apr 28, 2005, 07:07 AM

Timing has checked out fine. Does anyone know if the MAP sensor will keep it from starting, if it has gone bad? My other question is, how about the EACV?

labman · Apr 28, 2005, 07:20 AM

If the timing is dead on, checked with a light, it can still be 180 degrees off. Firing the plug between the exaust and intake strokes will not start the car.

Usually a bad sensor will only make the car run poorly.

hondadude · May 17, 2005, 10:59 AM

When I start it up it starts up but when I press gas it just dies out and after trying it sevreal times and now it does not want to start up I cheacked everything the computer just blinks 1 time when its on on2 and the relay clicks fuel pump turns on but when I put gas in the hole where the intake is it starts up and when I press gas it revs I really need help

CroCivic91 · May 17, 2005, 03:01 PM

You are saying that when you try to start the car normally, it would eventually start, but if you pressed gas - it would shut off?

But if you poured gas down the intake, it would both start and respond to gas normally?

If so - it sounds like you're not getting proper fuel pressure.

seanoman · May 17, 2005, 04:01 PM

My honda has fuel and everything I just got a new main relay but now I got no spark but it well roll start wha the hell am I looking at now oh it's a 89 honda civic 1.5 litter

CroCivic91 · May 18, 2005, 02:47 AM

Are you the same guy that posted the first question (hondadude)? If so - try to use the same "user" each time you post.

Otherwise, I will just treat this question as unrelated to the first one.

There is no spark what so ever? It might be due to bad main relay... did you buy a brand new one, or a junk yard one? If it's the junk yard one - it might have the same problem as your original one. Search the other posts here and you'll find the link to fix the main relay. If it's brand new, then the problem might be the Igniter Unit or Ignition Coil. Also, search the forum here, you will find info on how to check those two units by using a multimeter.

Are you getting any codes on ECU? Check other posts here for procedure on how to check ECU for error codes.

On a side question: when did you last change your distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires? It most likely wouldn't make a spark totally disappear, but it would make it weaker.

mechanic · Jan 13, 2006, 08:29 PM

My car is like yours man, I take to the mechanic, so they said to me: You need to change the WATER PUMP, and that's all! but it cost about 500 o 600 dlls. Take it easy man! Good luck!;)

mshillig · Mar 12, 2006, 07:05 PM

How do you rebuild a fuel relay

CroCivic91 · Mar 16, 2006, 03:14 AM

Originally Posted by mshillig

how do you rebuild a fuel relay

You read the FAQ.

images · Jun 27, 2007, 06:55 PM

93 civic cx won't start at times replaced filter pump cranks fine if you spray gas in air filter starts then stops trying to dia. But then it starts ,what the hell is an igniter

TxGreaseMonkey · Jun 27, 2007, 07:26 PM

Images, an igniter is the Ignition Control Module inside your distributor. The ECM tells it when to open and close the voltage going to the primary (low) voltage circuit in your coil. In otherwords, it's an electronic set of points or switch, which allows the secondary (high) voltage circuit in the coil to generate 25,000+ volts. AutoZone and O'Reilly Auto Parts can check your igniter and coil for free.

I think you are focusing on the right component. If you change it, I would also change the rotor and coil at the same time. Here's what the igniter looks like and costs for your Civic CX:

Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

Here's how to replace the igniter and coil yourself:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post265896

It might be worth your while to read sections A and B below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...das-46563.html