I'll try to give all the info I can. I bought this car a few months ago , supposed to have about
20,000 mi on a rebuild, timing belt good. the first time, it cranked over, fired, sputtered and died. then I could crank and crank but it wouldn't fire.When I first turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump run and shut off and the main relay clicks. I then engage the starter, the fuel pump also starts running,but engine never wants to catch. I can smell raw gas in the tail pipe. The led on the ecm flashes as follows: 1 pause 1 pause 17 pause 1 pause 17... I have checked the main relay by the book and Its good. Where do I go from here?...P.S. I've read several other posts here If you think Its my ECM, How do I find/count the pins to check them?


Regards,

Greg

txgreasemonkey

Perform tests, in Sections A and B, below:

http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...das-46563.html

Be sure to perform the K-Test on your ECM.

outsydthbox

Thanks for your reply.
I have gone through A and B. Igniter module and coil have been replaced. I had a good used cap, and I couldn't remove the rotor without breaking it (then cutting the metal collar off the Dist. shaft- frozen on) so, new rotor button. Now It sounds like it wants to start, just wont.
I have seen you mention the K- test before..... What is it, and where do I find how to do it?

Greg

txgreasemonkey

The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

outsydthbox

I have Checked the Map sensor plug voltage, with key off (.19 mv) with key in position 1 (.19 mv) and in position 2 (5.5 volts).....What's next?

thanks again,

Greg

txgreasemonkey

If you have spark, but the engine won't start, the problem may be with sensors inside the distributor (CKP, CYL, and TDC). They are not serviceable and would require installing a new distributor housing (Honda only).

Did you check all under-hood and under-dash fuses with a test light or multimeter?

outsydthbox

I do have good spark, and have checked all of the fuses with an audible continuity tester.
I even borrowed a friends ecm ( out of his "running" civic). You think I might need a new distributor? When you wrote "Honda only",do you mean "don't get a re-man?
Could it be the map sensor? It cranks and (sometimes) sounds like it wants to start.

Thanks,

Greg

txgreasemonkey

Yes. Go to Honda and buy just the distributor housing ($150).

outsydthbox

Are you sure about that price? I just checked at 2 local dealership parts desks, and was told
$294.54 !!!! (wholesale) OUCH!!!! Is there a different source I should be looking to? I Also
double checked to make sure the price was for a "dist housing only". retail they wanted
$369.10.

Greg

txgreasemonkey

Tell them you only want the housing, not the ICM, coil, rotor, and distributor cap.