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I'll try to give all the info I can. I bought this car a few months ago , supposed to have about
20,000 mi on a rebuild, timing belt good. the first time, it cranked over, fired, sputtered and died. then I could crank and crank but it wouldn't fire.When I first turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump run and shut off and the main relay clicks. I then engage the starter, the fuel pump also starts running,but engine never wants to catch. I can smell raw gas in the tail pipe. The led on the ecm flashes as follows: 1 pause 1 pause 17 pause 1 pause 17... I have checked the main relay by the book and Its good. Where do I go from here?...P.S. I've read several other posts here If you think Its my ECM, How do I find/count the pins to check them?
I did. You have been such a big help already, I hate to ask. Do you have a part # that I can give him? I am not sure he's being straight with me. And yet, I got the same answer from 2
different dealerships (Knoxville, Tn) One of them wouldn't even offer a wholesale price even after I gave him my business info.
Greasemonkey, I replaced the distributor with a Advance auto parts rebuilt.....No difference.
I thought I might have gotten the plug wires "off by 1" when I replaced the cap earlier, so I moved them 1 place at a time all the way around the cap with no results.
Josh, The timing belt was replaced because the engine was totally rebuilt. I don't think it would have run for 20,000 miles with bent valves.
I am guessing you're out of ideas. Here is something else I have noticed, and maybe it will help. After the car has sat for a few days, I crank it and immediately it starts and runs for no more than a second and dies. then it's back to the same thing. I am getting desperate to get this car running (my truck only gets 14 mpg). Are there any other sensors I can test ?
Yes the Ignitor and coil are new. Today I swapped out the main relay with my friend (his relay in my car and my relay in his car) mine runs in his and his doesn't run in mine. Also swapped the map sensor, no change. does disconnecting the battery reset the ecm? If so, It's
been reset about 20 times in the past few weeks. No codes flashing anyway.
As for a ground on the thermostat housing?...there is a bracket that holds a wire bundle,
but I don't see a ground wire...on my car, or my friends.
Yes, disconnecting the neg. battery cable resets the ECM. The main ECM ground is a 3-wire brass connector, attached to the thermostat housing. I don't know much else to suggest. Have you changed the fuel filter recently and checked fuel pressure?
FINAL THOUGHT: When the timing belt was replaced, did the rebuilder ensure TDC was on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke? It makes a big difference. This may be part of the reason why you can smell raw gas in the tail pipe.
Yes, I changed the fuel filter last week and need to check pressure. What should pressure be?Is there a possibility that the PRESSURE REGULATOR IS BAD? The timing belt was changed 20,000 miles ago, and the car has run great for the 6 months
I have owned it. The day it quit, I started it , moved it forward in the driveway, and backed up into a different space, and it died and wouldn't re-start. Would any car run well ( good power and 33 mpg/city-hiway)for this many miles with the timing belt off by 180?
Timing belt is likely okay, based upon your description.
Fuel Pressure Regulator Test
The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant fuel pressure to the fuel injectors. When the difference between the fuel pressure and manifold pressure exceeds 43 psi, the diaphragm is pushed upward, and the excess fuel is fed back into the fuel tank through the return line.
Test:
1. Attach fuel pressure gauge to service port of fuel filter. Pressure should be 40-47 psi, with fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and pinched.
2. Reconnect vacuum hose to fuel pressure regulator.
3. Check that fuel pressure rises when vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator is disconnected again. If fuel pressure did not rise, replace fuel pressure regulator.