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My 2001 honda civic will be the death of me, haha

Asked Dec 21, 2011, 02:21 PM — 34 Answers
Hi everyone !

Ok, a little background on the car

My mom owned it and it was well maintained with all services. Over the years, the transmission started slipping and eventually pooched. So she gave me the car. I bought a used transmission and installed it myself with the help of the manual. I bagged and tagged every thing and put the new tranny in with ease. Drove it for 2 weeks and that's where this problem started.

I started the car, everything was fine. Drove for 2 minutes and she suddenly stalled so I pulled over. I tried to restart it but she didn't start and I would get the odd backfire. She just cranks and cranks...

Things I already did to try and find the cause : While trying to start the car, I had the oil cap removed and could visibly see the valves moving so I know the starter is good and the gear is not stripped. I also have a booster pack and a well charged batt so its not the battery. So I started with ( fuel, air, spark and timing) I replaced all the spark plugs and tested each wire to make sure spark was delivered.... It is. I disconnected my exhaust at the catalytic because I heard some stories off those clogging up pretty bad. And I also had a code P0420 (P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1), still no start. I disconnected the fuel line at the engine and there is fuel . I checked every fuse under the hood as well as under the dash. I double checked all the sensors that were disconnected when I was working on the transmission, there all good. I started thinking about the timing belt. Went threw old receipts and found my mom had it changed just last year. I'm going outside right now to check the air filter, just in case... Lol. But that's it, I AM TOTALLY STUMPED! I can't wait to find out what's wrong so that I can fix it. I'm now thinking sensors but I'm not experienced, I just have common sense.


If anyone can help! In any way. Maybe I overlooked something stupid yes I have gas haha...

34 Answers
TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,524, Reputation: 5338
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#21

Jan 3, 2012, 01:26 PM


My daughter-in-law was from Ottawa--now she lives in L.A. Zero for compression? If you tested each cylinder properly, it sounds like there must be valve and/or piston damage.
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helicopterPilot's Avatar
helicopterPilot Posts: 16, Reputation: 10
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#22

Jan 3, 2012, 03:04 PM
oh cool, bet she loves it down there.

does the piston do all 4 (intake, compression. ignition and exhaust) all in one camshaft turn? or 2?

because if it were 2, then what if it was just a simple case of taking off the timing belt and turning the crank shaft another 360 while keeping the camshaft where it is there ?

I have no idea what Im talking about, haha.

Anyways, you helped me more than enough, thanks for everything but Im going to keep going at this, Im pretty persistant :P





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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,524, Reputation: 5338
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#23

Jan 3, 2012, 04:36 PM


Two turns. Your "solution" will not change things, however.

Did you remove all of the spark plugs; screw in a compression gauge, in turn, to each spark plug hole; and have someone crank the starter motor to check the compression? If you did, then you will get to know your engine even better, as you restore the valves, head, and pistons.
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helicopterPilot's Avatar
helicopterPilot Posts: 16, Reputation: 10
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#24

Jan 4, 2012, 01:27 PM
well... I couldnt take it, i ripped out everything again, it was driving me nuts.

what I found... The tdc marks werent aligned anymore..what gives?

And earlier in our convo, I was talking about a woodruff key in the crankshaft. wich I lost, haha. I didnt even know it existed. And ive been putting it all back together without it the hole time. could that be why the TDC lines dont match?
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,524, Reputation: 5338
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#25

Jan 4, 2012, 04:12 PM


Only if the crankshaft timing belt pulley (sprocket) didn't have the woodruff key installed. However, it wouldn't affect timing if the crankshaft pulley was missing its key--the A/C, power steering, and alternator just wouldn't work.
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helicopterPilot's Avatar
helicopterPilot Posts: 16, Reputation: 10
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#26

Jan 6, 2012, 01:14 PM
Hey!hows it going?

just givin you an update on my project:P

so after the compression test, I started look at valve adjustment. I found that my intake valves where way out, like.. almost a half inch out! when its suppose to be .2 mm or whatever. i think my intake valves got wacked.. possible ? Maybe no air was ever getting to the cylinder. My exhaust were fine, just a little off.

Now I have the cylinder head off.. or just about




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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,524, Reputation: 5338
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#27

Jan 6, 2012, 07:37 PM
I'm proud of you. Soon you will know one heck of alot about Civics. Stay greasy and learn!

I've been out this evening servicing a school teachers 2004 Ford Expedition automatic transmission. Just finished.

Keep us posted--many of us want to see you get that car back on the road soon.
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helicopterPilot's Avatar
helicopterPilot Posts: 16, Reputation: 10
Junior Member
 
#28

Jan 21, 2012, 11:41 AM
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ITS ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey! I just had to let you know. Started her up for the first time this morning. She purrs like a kitten

so I brought her for a test drive and no funny sounds or anything. the only thing is I got to the end of my road and Its a good thing Im used to looking at gauges because I noticed the temp gauge raising past half way and im sure she would of kept going if I hadnt shut off the car. so i let her cool off, drove her back here.

Now.. Is there such a thing as bleeding engine coolant? Or maybe some crud fell in the coolant and creating blockage? or bad thermostat?

anyways.. just wanted to say thanks and Ill be sure to pass it on. Wether helping someone fix his car on the road or at least give him a lift.


THANKS

-Mathieu
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,524, Reputation: 5338
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#29

Jan 21, 2012, 11:57 AM
Very, very nice job! Did you have to rebuild the head and install new valves, pistons, and connecting rods? Tell us exactly.

To refill Hondas, it's important to open the bleeder bolt (located next to where the top hose attaches to the engine), add coolant until it comes out of the bleeder bolt, tighten the bleeder bolt, turn the heater control to high, turn the fan off, run the engine until the thermostatically controlled radiator fan comes on, add additional coolant until the radiator is full, and rinse out and refill the coolant reservoir. On all cars, it's important to purge air from the cooling system, since it can cause overheating or no heat in the system. Be sure to refill with a 50/50 mixture of DexCool and distilled water. Its formulation meets the silicate-free requirement of Honda. Minerals found in tap water tend to combine with coolant additives. When this happens, they form a chemical complex called “phosphate scale,” which coats the heat-transfer surfaces of radiators, heater cores, and heads, resulting in decreased heat-transfer efficiency. When this occurs, your vehicle will overheat and run much hotter than it was designed to. This scale can also lead to the destruction of water pump bearings. When this happens, the radiator or heater core must be removed and roded or replaced. Otherwise, buy pre-diluted ready-to-use coolant, which is a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and demineralized water (more expensive, but convenient).
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helicopterPilot's Avatar
helicopterPilot Posts: 16, Reputation: 10
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#30

Jan 22, 2012, 06:48 AM
HA! done and done. I have to say Im very fortunate . Strangers helping me out online, my dad is a mechanic and was a snap-on dealer. I had all the tools

I pulled the cylinder head and replaced all the valves. Seated all the new ones with grinding compound, all new seals and everything was re-torqued. I snapped one of the camshaft bolts because I didnt know how to use a torque wrench, haha, ooops. I got lucky and used a reverse drill bit to get it out, took 2 seconds. and I was too impatient to wait for an order so I just put a home hardware bolt :S, grade 8 instead of grade 10.

I am strapped for cash so I didnt replace any piston rods or seals... I know I know. It is what it is. I was also pressed for time. I have 2 full time jobs and no time to sleep because I would work on the car. But we inspected the cylinders and not one scratch on them, the rings were fine. The piston themselves just had a little nick where the valves hit but nothing to be concerned about.

I drove the car for about 3 hours last night in zig zags around my home town, just in case. You can get away with towing your own car in the country but never would you pull it off in the city. Ill drive another 3 hours today and then do a oil change. I was told it would be a good Idea since prestone may have mixed with the oil. I bought 5 w 30 synthetic... I remember you saying I should get a specific oil for e test purposes. I need to get the car e tested because it hasnt passed in the pass 2 years and if it doesnt pass by march, the car get pulled off the road. What would you recommend I do to get the car ready for e test?

Thanks

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