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1999 Honda Accord dies intermittently

Asked Jan 3, 2012, 01:04 PM — 18 Answers
This issue likely sound familiar.......I have a 1999 Honda Accord, 4 cyl, with 98K miles. Lately it has been dying suddenly when stopped at a traffic light and also while driving on the freeway. It has been intermittent. Gave it to a trusty mechanic and he could not find an issue and was unable to make it die while he test drove it on and off for couple of days. I carefully noticed the last time it died on the freeway, the tach and speedometer completely bottomed out, but no lights came up on the dash. The car restarted on its own with a few seconds and then the maintenance light and ABS light came up momentarily. A few minutes later on, the tach and speedometer went crazy and bounced up and down like mad but then steadied out. Whenever, it has died at the stop light, I am able to put it in neutral and it starts right away. Please help.

18 Answers
TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,526, Reputation: 5338
Senior Cars & Trucks Expert
 
#2

Jan 3, 2012, 01:14 PM


Replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM), located inside the distributor. Be sure to apply silicone heat transfer grease to the back of the new ICM. That should solve your problem.
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kawaheed's Avatar
kawaheed Posts: 6, Reputation: 10
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#3

Jan 3, 2012, 07:47 PM
Thanks for the input, TxGreaseMonkey. Shall I buy the Honda original ICM for $170 or an aftermarket (Beck/Arnley) for around $70?
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,526, Reputation: 5338
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#4

Jan 4, 2012, 06:05 AM


We haven't had any problems with aftermarket ICMs.
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kawaheed's Avatar
kawaheed Posts: 6, Reputation: 10
Junior Member
 
#5

Jan 20, 2012, 08:32 PM
Honda Accord dies intermittently
Hi TxGreaseMonkey:
Per your suggestion, I replaced the ICM in the distributor but the car continues to die intermittently. Should I replace the PGM-FI Relay next?

My original post as follow:
This issue likely sound familiar.......I have a 1999 Honda Accord, 4 cyl, with 98K miles. Lately it has been dying suddenly when stopped at a traffic light and also while driving on the freeway. It has been intermittent. Gave it to a trusty mechanic and he could not find an issue and was unable to make it die while he test drove it on and off for couple of days. I carefully noticed the last time it died on the freeway, the tach and speedometer completely bottomed out, but no lights came up on the dash. The car restarted on its own with a few seconds and then the maintenance light and ABS light came up momentarily. A few minutes later on, the tach and speedometer went crazy and bounced up and down like mad but then steadied out. Whenever, it has died at the stop light, I am able to put it in neutral and it starts right away.
Helpful
TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,526, Reputation: 5338
Senior Cars & Trucks Expert
 
#6

Jan 21, 2012, 04:52 AM


Additional thoughts:

. Remove and fully charge the battery. Most auto parts stores will do this for free.

. Check the alternator. If warning lights (e.g., battery, ABS, SRS, or others) start appearing in concert with one another on the dash, immediately suspect the alternator.

. Replace the coil. The ICM and coil are located inside the distributor and are subjected to intense heat. Both of these components are frequently responsible for intermittent and sudden engine stalling. If the rotor and distributor cap have not been changed in 60,000 miles, I recommend that you replace them. Corrosion on these components (high resistance) often causes the high secondary electricity to find the shortest part to ground--this often means through the ICM and coil, which damages them. If the problem persists after taking these steps, I would install the new ICM, coil, rotor, and distributor cap in a new genuine Honda distributor housing--all others are suspect. It could be that one or more internal distributor sensors (TDC, CKP, or CYL) have been damaged. Do you have the original Honda distributor or an aftermarket?

. Check the ignition switch for wear or pitting.

. Replace the main relay, particularly if it happens only when the temperature inside the car goes up during the day. Cold solder joints expand and the relay fails.
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kawaheed's Avatar
kawaheed Posts: 6, Reputation: 10
Junior Member
 
#7

Jan 21, 2012, 07:20 PM
Thanks for the input, TxGreaseMonkey. Here is the list of items I have already replaced - distributor cap, rotor, plug wire-set, spark plugs. Then I put in a Hitachi Coil, and lastly the ICM (Beck Arnely brand). I applied the silicone paste to the ICM as you had cautioned. The problem remains intermittent, but today it got worse and the car died 6 times just during city driving. The battery is a few months old and there is no charging issue. The distributor is original Hitachi. Car has approx 95,000 miles. I have tried to jiggle the key while the car is running but can never make it die. I am thinking of replacing the main relay next.
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,526, Reputation: 5338
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#8

Jan 22, 2012, 04:05 AM
The next step, after replacing the main relay, is to install the components in a new genuine Honda distributor housing. As I have said many times on this site, Honda distributors tend to only last 50,000 to 100,000 miles. Mine went out at 98,000 miles.
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lanantip's Avatar
lanantip Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
New Member
 
#9

Aug 7, 2012, 07:00 AM
Hi kawaheed, was your problem solved and what solved it?

i have the same problem now with my 99 accord 4cyl ex. i had also replaced the whole distributor (i'm assuming the icm and coil are part of this), battery, spark plugs, timing belt, fuel pump and lastly the main relay but i'm still having the same problem -- engine dying while driving in the freeway.

TxGreaseMonkey, any additional thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance.
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TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 15,526, Reputation: 5338
Senior Cars & Trucks Expert
 
#10

Aug 7, 2012, 08:08 AM
lanantip, if the CEL comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to Position II, then focus on the distributor. Because of the problems you are having, I suspect you did not install a genuine Honda distributor--all others are suspect and unreliable. Install a genuine Honda distributor housing, where it's fine to use an aftermarket ICM and coil to keep the cost down, and your problem will likely be solved.
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